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JBP workshopping with BONSAIKC

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Old 13-May-2008   #11
FlyBri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anttal63
Here we are at the end of fall june starts winter. temps have dropped to an ave. 42 F at night and 64-68 during the day.
Jeeze Ant - slipping back to that primitive temperature scale? Might as well tell us how many blankets you needed on the bed last night, for all the good Fahrenheit does! (For those who have moved beyond digits and cubits, Ant's figures translate to 6°C and 18-20°C.)

Good idea for a thread, and a nice little tree to start with, Ant. I'll be following with interest, as I have a couple of weedy JBPs that are in serious need of some direction and focus.

Thanks.

Fly.

PS: Ant: can you tell us Melbournites where this promising piece of stock came from?
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Old 13-May-2008   #12
anttal63
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ello fly sorry bout the farra just trying to make it easier for the KC. thanks for the trans. though. Fly it was cold last night had 3 blankie's on.

this tree was purchased along with another jbp and a jm. from a club member who has thinned out his collection.
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Last edited by anttal63 : 13-May-2008 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 13-May-2008   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anttal63
Fly it was cold last night had 3 blankie's on.
Hmmm - from memory, 3 blankies ≈ 3-4°C...
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Old 14-May-2008   #14
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Chris,
Will have to change your ID from BonsaiKC to BonsaiBC- You are such a cat....

Think about them as being 6 months out of phase and a lot like Southern California- May is November, June is December, etc. (or versa vicey).

And the blood runs to their heads.....

John
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Old 14-May-2008   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vonsgardens

And the blood runs to their heads.....

John


Good luck with this project Anthony. Chris should guide you well through this.

Senor Kirby you would have enjoyed this experience well on your last visit downunda. It does refresh the cerebral regions.

Ash (south of everyone)
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Old 14-May-2008   #16
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Hola Ash,
Yes the feeling was quite envigorating! Won't get to OZ this year, but will be down to the land of the slightly taller ANZAC statue- New Zealand during the Southern Hemisphere spring (October).

In all seriousness, the use of an internet tutorial on Japanese Black Pine refinement will be quite useful. It should help to get the timing issues pulled together and help folks to establish good windows of opportunity for completing specific tasks. As an example, we will decandle and pull needles between mid-June and mid-july (too many trees to get them all the same week), but friends in Denver Colorado will need to do theirs over the next couple of weeks (Greenhouse trees) so the trees will be hardened off in time for September frosts. Good exercise.

John
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Old 14-May-2008   #17
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Antonio,
Coming into fall as you are, now is the good time to clean up the tree and ready it for its winter rest.

To that end, it's time to get rid of old needles. There should not be any three year old needles on the tree, and it's now time to get rid of the two year old needles as well.

You have old needles in the areas I have circled in red. All those can go. For those who are not sure how to tell two year old needles from this year's needles, the second photo is a good example. The candles had been cut on these two branches, and the new growth with shorter needles are considered this year's needles, the ones circled in red are last year's.

The best way to get rid of these is with a good pair of Masakuni tweezers. You can cut them if you wish, but just be aware you don't want buds all over these branches. We need to restrain the top of this tree, not encourage it.

When pulling the needles, grasp the fascicle with the blunt tips of the tweezers, grip well, and pull away from the trunk. In other words, pull in the direction the needle is growing. Pulling backward can damage the bark.
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Old 14-May-2008   #18
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What about a branch that has not been cut? How do we distinguish last year's needles from this year's? Here's a photo of a shoot with two year's needles on it:

You can easily see where the branch turns from grey to green, and the new needles begin after a small gap. That gap is considered the "neck" of the candle they grew from. The older needles are darker and not as tight to the branch. They can go.
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Old 14-May-2008   #19
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I was not aware of a difference, other than preference, between cutting and plucking.

KC, you seem to be saying that cutting will encourage buds and new growth while plucking will encourage more backbudding and less new buds and growth at the tips.

Do I understand this correctly?
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Old 14-May-2008   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekillians
I was not aware of a difference, other than preference, between cutting and plucking.

KC, you seem to be saying that cutting will encourage buds and new growth while plucking will encourage more backbudding and less new buds and growth at the tips.

Do I understand this correctly?
No, I am just saying that there has been some controversy to this point. On a very young tree or branch where ramification is primarily needed, cutting the needles just above the fascicle will preserve all the needle buds, one in between each pair of needles. Some have advocated only cutting on young trees. I don't work with trees that young, and I think this tree is ready to move beyond that method to a true energy balancing set of techniques.

The tree still needs to develop, but there are portions that are too strong already, and these must be held back. There's no reason to worry with this tree about planting it in the ground for years to develop the trunk, etc. It already has a pleasing shape and can make a very nice bonsai from where it is today.

Plucking the needles removes needle buds but there are latent adventitious buds in the bark that can be stimulated by cutting the tree back. This is possible if the tree is very strong, well-fed, and the branch is question is less than about ten years old.

On really young branches, I still simply strip the needles I don't want, but don't even worry too much about tweezers: I just grab them by the handful and pull.
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