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Warm And Cold Stratify ?

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Old 13-May-2004   #1
Camay123
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Warm And Cold Stratify ?

Ok, I got some seeds from seedrack.com.

Cotoneaster Horizontalis
Acer Trident
Korean Hornbean.

All seed must be cold stratify for 90 days.
I want to know what is your method for cold stratifying. The last time I try, the seeds did not germinate.

Now, the Korean Hornbean require something else:

The must be warm stratify for 60 days before the 90 days cold stratify. How do I proceed. ?

Thx
Patrick
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Old 13-May-2004   #2
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In your climate I'd be surprised if you couldn't simply plant them in the fall. Have you tried that? Some people cold stratify in the refrigerator in clean, moist sand. That sounds like a lot of work if your winter lasts for months.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 13-May-2004   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by TreeBay
In your climate I'd be surprised if you couldn't simply plant them in the fall.


I will do that for sure. But I took ~10 seeds of each to try myself at cold stratifying since last time I didnt succeed at it.

Also, warm stratify ? I have never of that
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Old 14-May-2004   #4
Brian
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http://www.backyardgardener.com/tm1.html


31 Pages of Info there on seeds
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Old 14-May-2004   #5
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Thanks alot for the link. I found the answer.

Quote:
14. Stratification (cold treatment)
Some seeds need a period of moisture and cold after harvest before they will germinate-usually this is necessary to either allow the embryo to mature or to break dormancy. This period can be artificially stimulated by placing the moistened seed in a refrigerator for a certain period of time (usually 3- 5 weeks at around 41 F). With tiny seeds it is best to sow them on moistened compost, seal the container in a Polythene bag and leave everything in the refrigerator for the recommended period. However, larger seeds can be mixed with 2-3 times their volume of damp peat, placed direct into a Polythene bag which is sealed and placed in the refrigerator. Look at seeds from time to time. The seeds must be moist whilst being pre-chilled, but it doesn't usually benefit them to be actually in water or at temperatures below freezing.

Light also seems to be beneficial after prechilling and so pre-chilled seeds should have only the lightest covering of compost over them, if any is required, and the seed trays etc. should be in the light and not covered with brown paper etc.

15. Double Dormancy
Some seeds have a combination of dormancies and each one has to be broken in turn and in the right sequence before germination can take place; for example, some Lilies, Tree paeonies, Taxus need a three month warm period (68-86'F) during which the root develops and then a three month chilling to break dormancy of the shoots, before the seedling actually emerges. Trillium needs a three month chill followed by three months of warmth and then a further three month chill before it will germinate.

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Old 14-May-2004   #6
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I printed those pages out in 2002 its dated

Tridents are a pc o cake

I bought a bunch of Cotoneaster seeds but did'nt try them I sent most of the seeds to Sankastaff here. I don't recall if he had anyluck getting them to grow.
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Old 16-May-2004   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brian
I bought a bunch of Cotoneaster seeds but did'nt try them I sent most of the seeds to Sankastaff here


My last Cotoneaster seeds didnt work
Dont know why.
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