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Scion Size

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Old 4-Oct-2006   #1
Douglasj
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Unhappy Scion Size

I am working on a very large Austrian pine the lower branches are about 1.5 inches in diameter I basically have to build this tree form the ground up it has a very sexy trunk and when finished it is going to be a killer tree. Anyway seeing that the lower branches are so big , how big can I go on the scions in diameter .Can I go with something like 3/8 inch scions with good results ,or is that to big to graft and take . Ore should I go with a smaller scion say 1/4 inch I don’t want to experiment another year . The larger scion would give me a better start if they take ..





Tnx Doug

Last edited by Douglasj : 5-Oct-2006 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 4-Oct-2006   #2
Graydon
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Douglas,

In a technical sense a bud graft is just that - a bud that is grafted. Are you asking if you can graft a scion to a 2" branch or use a 2" branch as a scion?

Size will have no impact as to good or bad outcome. A good outcome is the bud 'takes' and a bad outcome is the bud does not 'take' and withers away. More to do with the alignment of the cambium layers.
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Old 4-Oct-2006   #3
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Old 6-Oct-2006   #4
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Yes - it does make sense. The difference between 1/4" and 3/8" is, well 1/8" and that's not much. Of course use the fattest and most dominant buds on your tree.

I think what I am trying to explain is the bud need to be fresh growth with the candle ready to but not yet extending. The cut to harvest the bud would be current year's growth that has hardened off (went from green to brown but not mature bark). Any older and the success rate would go down (I think - I have not tried 2 or 3 year old growth scions).

Once the graft takes it will begin to grow outward and fatten in girth. You will be surprised how quickly it will begin to gain size and blend in.

I hope my response helps - perhaps someone else will join the discussion.
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Old 6-Oct-2006   #5
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The larger the cut in the recieving stock, the larger chance for failure. All grafts, bud or otherwise should be in the matchstick size range. The scion should be hardened growth from the previous year but not older than three years. The best grafts are those made with a grafting chisel rather than a knife. The chisel is razor sharp and is pushed into the stock with a short sharp jab. The chisel is extracted the same as it went in, otherwise the tip will breakoff. The chisel leaves two shoulders on the entry wound that are very easy to seal. That is the key to good grafts. The scion is cut into the same shape as the business end of the chisel. The scion will insert very cleanly into the chisel pocket and can be tied with rubberbands, or green tape. Rubberbands are best since they "give" while the graft swells during cooking.

A small ball of cotten soaked in water is placed on top of the graft after it is secured and the entire area is wrapped with a small sheet of clear plastic to make a minature green house. The wound should start "cooking" in about four weeks when done properly and in the right sesaon. The cooking will be sap bubbling around the area.

Good luck, Al
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