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Rooting a persimmon cutting?

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Old 17-Oct-2001   #1
denny
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Rooting a persimmon cutting?

early sept i got a persimmon cutting i put it in water.
it has lost its leaves and grown new buds all up and down the cutting,but it bearly has roots,if any.
if this is a desidious tree will the cutting survive inside this winter?
thanks
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Old 17-Oct-2001   #2
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Re: what to do....

Very few tree cuttings will root in water.

Salix (Willow), wisteria and Sequoia (redwood) are the only ones that come to my mind at the moment. Most others just wilt and/or rot. Can anyone think of other trees that will root in water?

Diaspyros (Persimmon) can be propagated very easily with root cuttings or by division (cutting a clump apart).

The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation says,

Softwood cuttings taken in June or July, treated with 1000-5000ppm powdered rooting hormone (IBA) in a sterile peat & perlite mixture and placed under mist root "readily."
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Old 18-Oct-2001   #3
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Re: what to do....

thanks.
so what with all the new growth?
is it too late to put in soil ya think?
i did put rootone f in the water.
perhaps i will set a precedence.
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Old 18-Oct-2001   #4
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Re: what to do....

Hi Denny,

You can certainly try it. The usual way is to strike the cuttings in fall or winter with the hope that the roots will begin to develop before the buds break.

Cuttings are also sometimes taken in summer and stripped of leaves and given bottom heat to promote root growth and periodic misting to maintain enough humidity so they don't dry out.

In your case it sounds like the buds are already breaking, so you will know pretty soon if you were successful.

If you want to try something more conventional (notice I didn't say better) you can look here

Regards,

Matt
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Old 18-Oct-2001   #5
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Re: what to do....

Yes they are deciduous and I doubt it would last the winter inside the house. I would pot it up and put it in a cool spot for the winter 30- 50 degrees.

Tony
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Old 19-Oct-2001   #6
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Re: what to do....

Denny: My boss and I grow persimon and the way that we propigate it is with root cuttings. In the spring when the buds are breaking is when we will dig the plants up and prune the roots and top. Princes percimon roots tend to be long and lankie, black and dead looking. This is normal, If you can get some root cuttings, set them out into a prepaired box of fine bonsai soil. Two parts 1/16 to 3/8 in. chunk with two parts washed sand and one part humis. Set the roots into this with just a nub of the root staying out of the soil. Place in a protected spot and water with the rest of your trees in mid summer you should see leaves and by fall a small plant . Over winter and pot up in the spring. Now you will have persimon for the rest of your life and like me probably to many.
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Old 19-Oct-2001   #7
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Re: what to do....

Hi Rips,

I planted some Princess persimmon seeds about 4 years ago, maybe 5. *I have good size plants now, some about 4 feet tall and pinkie thick, but thorns, no fruits.

I know these trees are dioecious, so I figure either somehow lucked out and planted all male trees, or they're all female and I don't have any pollen, or maybe it takes just one more year? *At least that's what I keep telling myself *:

Have you noticed a real absence of bees lately? *I used to see them all the time, now its just yellowjacket wasps.

In a funny story, a couple years ago *I did a bunch of work on chocolate persimmon's roots. *Persimmon roots are black as Rips said and very hard. *They make golfclub heads out of persimmon. *I think it might even be harder than boxwood. *Anyway, I was working on a good sized tree for a couple hours, sawing on it and trimming roots and washing away the soil...

When I went inside to clean up, my hands were a deep orange-brown color and it wouldn't wash off! * The roots had stained my skin very orange, and it took about 10 days to wear off. *Worse yet, it was just on the palms so it looked REALLY funky!

So, if you play with persimmon, chocolate persimmon at least, keep some latex gloves on!
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Old 19-Oct-2001   #8
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Re: what to do....

Matt: It has been my experance that persimon will take forever to produce first fruit, sometimes up to fifteen years. That is why we propigate with mature trees that have already produced fruit. This way the root cutting will fruit in the second year and we don't have to wait so long to get a fruiting tree. I know that it sounds trite but it works for us. As for me I am happy because I get to play with princess persimon.
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Old 19-Oct-2001   #9
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Re: what to do....

This makes sense, Rips. Someone told me that I should expect the plant to begin to flower about the time it develops thorns. This was the first thorny year and I believe it has been 5 years from seed.

I planted seeds that were taken from several different varieties of Princess Persimmon. There is a round-fruited variety, an oblong fruit and a black-mottled fruit.

I am really wondering, however whether the conformation of the fruit doesn't depend as much on the pollen that fertilizes the flower. I kept careful note of the fruit type when I planted the seeds, but these tags were mostly lost when the trees went into the ground two years ago.

It would be interesting to know if a plant with spotted, oblong or oval fruits will always produce fruit of that type regardless of the pollen, and whether the seeds from that fruit will be true to the characteristics of the mother plant.

I have three known-fruiting plants, a Diaspyros kaki or Kaki persimmon a chocolate persimmon and a Princess persimmon that did bear fruit when they were purchased. I had only 1 fruit on the Princess last year and none on the Kaki or chocolate persimmon this year. That led me to suspect that maybe the pollinating insect count has been low this year. I have seen almost no bees and just a few ladybugs. So, I am wondering if I should try to artificially pollinate next year?
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Old 20-Oct-2001   #10
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Re: what to do....

Matt: It never hurts to do a little atrificial pollinating. But go figure this we get fruit with no seed that holds into winter. As to throwing true seed, I don't think that any plant will year after year throw true seed. Even in the varigated zelcova that we propigate from seed, every years crop shows diffrent caracteristics in its varigation. The reason that you have such a wide verity of diffrent fruits is due to cross pollination. It is very difficult to control pollination, and a long wait for fruit from seed to see what you have. Better to take a root from a known fruit and then you do not have to wait so long. You are correct that this years crop has been light, but we have had bees all year. We have a bee keeper close by so we always have bees.
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