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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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Has any one tried this air layer method before?
(Or could this rookie I be onto something new?)
Without going into the reasons why I did this, I tried a different method that seems to be working. I first did an air layer, ring around the bark method, on an azalea. Then about 1 to 2 weeks later I chopped it off about 2 to 3 inches below the plastic wrap. I then placed the newly cut piece in a container that is filled a few inched with water. The newly cut piece is sitting in water, while the air layer (which is not sitting in water) is constantly in shade by the rim of the bucket and constantly moist. I did three of these, and the one that was NOT sitting in the water died, the other 2 are going pretty strong, beginning to push out new growth. This was about 4 weeks ago, but I haven’t seen any new roots yet. If this continues to work, a couple positives… 1) The bigger piece is about ˝ inch thick, I am assuming too big of a piece to use as a cutting. 2) Much easier to examine and potentially, if it works for larger caliber branches, much safer to replant. You saw it off before the roots appear, so less of a chance to disturb the new roots. 3) You don’t have an ugly ball of saran wrap and moss around your parent tree. Some questions unanswered… 1) Is this actually going to work? If it does… 2)What other species will it work on? Azaleas are fairly easy to air layer if I am not mistaken. 3)How thick of a branch will this work on? Best regards LB
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"If you violate Nature's laws you are your own prosecuting attorney, judge, jury, and hangman." Luther Burbank |
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#2 | |
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Carrier of Bonsai Fever
Join Date: Oct-2001
Location: So-Cal, US of A
Country: America The Beautiful
USDA Zone: Zone 9-10
Posts: 1,840
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Quote:
Only time will tell. keep us posted.
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Keep growing,---'Nut Lethal Use of Farce |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
Join Date: Jun-2004
Location: S. California
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 8-10
AHS Heat Zone: 6-7
Posts: 314
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Is it possible that you might take some photos wich will help explain this process you're describing?
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#4 |
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Square Tree - Round Pot!
Join Date: May-2004
Location: Walsall U.K.
Country: United Kingdom
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 1/2
Posts: 2,477
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Pound,
Sounds a very dangerous proposition to me. You are cutting off the only supply of nutrients to the tree - well before a replacement set of roots have grown in the appropriate place ready to take over this role. The top growth you will see could just be the "inbuilt" energy already in the trunk, which will be drawn entirely to the leaves, not in generating any fresh roots. Willow is one species that will root well in water, but that is not where you want the new roots to grow and you are not talking about Willow. I think in reality, all this water is doing is stopping the cut from drying out sooner and eventually your "cutting" will die without any roots to support the foliage. Consider, apart from your "layer" at the higher level, you are really only doing the same as putting CUT flowers into a vase. Put in some sugar or lemonade, they will last a little longer - but in the end ALL will wilt and die :-( I would certainly not try this method on any tree of value, since it is highly unlikely to be successful. However, I hope you can prove me wrong and I wish you luck. You may then go down in the records of Bonsai folklore. Regards, Ian. P.S. Here is a quick sketch of what I think Pound is doing ! Last edited by Ian_Homer : 23-May-2005 at 02:20 PM. |
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#5 |
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Dances With Trees
Join Date: Jul-2004
Location: Lake County California
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 8-9
AHS Heat Zone: 7-8
Posts: 573
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essentially you are not air layering at all, you are taking a cutting. 2-3 weeks is not long enough for any roots to form on an air layer.
- bob
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"As a twig is bent the tree inclines" - Virgil (70BC-19BC) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Check out my blog: bonsaiapprentice |
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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Yes, Ian, the middle portion of the picture is a good representation of what I am doing. and no, these are not important branches... it just ended up being an experiment.
If I were a betting man, I would place my bets on you guys. But then can someone explain something to me… when you do air layer, and cut a complete ring around and through the cambium layer, are nutrients flowing back and forth? I thought no, but this would not be the first time I am wrong about something. ![]()
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"If you violate Nature's laws you are your own prosecuting attorney, judge, jury, and hangman." Luther Burbank |
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#7 | |
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The Cat's Apprentice
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Quote:
![]() In this case, you are wrong, but we won't hold it against you. There are two types of major tissue in a tree to carry water and nutrients around. One is XYLEM and the other is PHLOEM. Click here for more. And here for more more. The PHLOEM is outside the cambium layer. (The cambium is what you remove to layer.) The PHLOEM carries stuff downward from the top to the roots. The XYLEM is inside the cambium ring (so it is not removed when you layer the tree). The XYLEM carries stuff up from the roots to the top. SOOooo, when you layer a tree and remove everything down through the cambium, you are still allowing the tree to transport goodies from the bottom up, but no longer allowing stuff to go down from the top. The stuff coming down helps feed and grow the new root tissue. pootsie |
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Very nicely put Mr Poots sir
![]() All the best, Aaron |
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#9 |
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Square Tree - Round Pot!
Join Date: May-2004
Location: Walsall U.K.
Country: United Kingdom
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 1/2
Posts: 2,477
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Hi Pound,
Pootsie has clarified the situation for you. The tree MUST remain supported by its roots, while the flow back from the foliage then builds new roots at the damaged area i.e. THE LAYER. Only when new roots have formed can you then hope to part the two with any chance of survival. Here is a link that explains it a little less scientifically, yet clearly: See Details This is the main reason why I feel your process is flawed - Sorry. Best Regards, Ian. |
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