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Acer campestre - air layering ??

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Old 9-Nov-2005   #1
marija hajdic
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Acer campestre - air layering ??

In May I have air layered one Acer capmestre that I find suitable for bonsai. It grows on clif I consider that this is better metod than digging it up (because it have very long superficial roots).
Trunk diameter is about 5-6 cm. Leaves didn't foll of yet.
I didn't cut it yet, because I can't evaluate, does it release enough new roots. Also I am worried because I have never air layered such thick branch/trunk.

Does anyone have experience with Acer campestre. I will apreciate an advice!
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #2
Carl_Bergstrom
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Hi Marija,

Last year I took a surface layer on an Acer campestra with about a 1 inch trunk (substantially smaller than yours). The operation was not entirely successful; the tree bridged as big of a gap as I've ever seen, but I did get a bit of root production. See the attached picture. The yellow arrows indicate the top and bottom of the band of removed bark.

I went ahead and separated the layer, and will report next spring on the results.


Best wishes,
Carl
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #3
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Walter Pall mentioned when I saw him last time that when he prepares the tree for a layer, he likes to leave the open wound uncovered and dry for one night before wrapping it with sphagnum moss. Once the ring around the heartwood is dry, the tree will have a much harder time to bridge the missing cambium.
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #4
marija hajdic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl_Bergstrom
Hi Marija,

Last year I took a surface layer on an Acer campestra with about a 1 inch trunk (substantially smaller than yours). The operation was not entirely successful; the tree bridged as big of a gap as I've ever seen, but I did get a bit of root production. See the attached picture. The yellow arrows indicate the top and bottom of the band of removed bark.

I went ahead and separated the layer, and will report next spring on the results.


Best wishes,
Carl


How long time do you needed for that result? I don't know should I wait one more year?

I have checked this summer, there was some little roots in moss, and it didn't bridged a gap.
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marija hajdic
How long time do you needed for that result? I don't know should I wait one more year?

I have checked this summer, there was some little roots in moss, and it didn't bridged a gap.


Hi Marija,

In the picture I posted, I took the layer in May 2004 and removed in March 2005.

I'm no expert at figuring out what to do with layers that don't produce lots of roots. What I have done on Acer palmatum, with reasonable success, is to take the failed layer off after one year, cut into the scar on the upper part, re-wrap with moss, and wait another year.

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Carl
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl_Bergstrom
I'm no expert at figuring out what to do with layers that don't produce lots of roots. What I have done on Acer palmatum, with reasonable success, is to take the failed layer off after one year, cut into the scar on the upper part, re-wrap with moss, and wait another year.

This weekend I will check how many roots he has... I hope enough.
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #7
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Marija,

The only way to find out whether or the tree produced enough roots is to carefully uncover the top of the layered area and see how abundant the roots are. You can do that any time of the year (have a hand-mister ready to keep the exposed roots moist). If you are not happy with the result, you just have to repeat the procedure next year.

When you layer a maple, the only acceptable result is a perfect one. Maples are very good at developing nice nebari, so that's an absolute must. It is very hard to correct a nebari where half of the surface roots are missing, so working with such a substandard material is a waste of time.

The tree seems to be healty and vigorous, so there is no problem repeating the layer if necessary.

Normally, one growing season should be enough for any deciduous tree.

(For conifers, you need more than one season)
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #8
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In the picture is that a verticle strip of bark connecting the 2 cuts? If so, this will defeat your intention. Acer are so easy to layer in my experience. Wait for the roots to become a little brown, not white, then you can cut.
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Winter
In the picture is that a verticle strip of bark connecting the 2 cuts? If so, this will defeat your intention.

You are right bruce, this may be a good "excuse" for the tree not to send out the roots we want.
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Old 9-Nov-2005   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attila
Marija,

When you layer a maple, the only acceptable result is a perfect one.


I totally agree, for a relatively small branch or relatively young plant in a garden/nursery pot setting. (And by this criterion, my campestre above probably belongs in the compost bin).

Do you think this holds for older, larger material in a collected setting, such as Marija's tree? I don't have any experience collecting maples, so I just don't know.

-Carl
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