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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Acer campestre - air layering ??
In May I have air layered one Acer capmestre that I find suitable for bonsai. It grows on clif I consider that this is better metod than digging it up (because it have very long superficial roots).
Trunk diameter is about 5-6 cm. Leaves didn't foll of yet. I didn't cut it yet, because I can't evaluate, does it release enough new roots. Also I am worried because I have never air layered such thick branch/trunk. Does anyone have experience with Acer campestre. I will apreciate an advice! |
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#2 |
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Old Mister Crow
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Hi Marija,
Last year I took a surface layer on an Acer campestra with about a 1 inch trunk (substantially smaller than yours). The operation was not entirely successful; the tree bridged as big of a gap as I've ever seen, but I did get a bit of root production. See the attached picture. The yellow arrows indicate the top and bottom of the band of removed bark. I went ahead and separated the layer, and will report next spring on the results. Best wishes, Carl |
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#3 |
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Attila Soos
Join Date: Jan-2002
Location: Los Angeles, California
Country: USA
Posts: 1,986
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Walter Pall mentioned when I saw him last time that when he prepares the tree for a layer, he likes to leave the open wound uncovered and dry for one night before wrapping it with sphagnum moss. Once the ring around the heartwood is dry, the tree will have a much harder time to bridge the missing cambium.
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#4 | |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Quote:
How long time do you needed for that result? I don't know should I wait one more year? I have checked this summer, there was some little roots in moss, and it didn't bridged a gap. |
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#5 | |
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Old Mister Crow
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Quote:
Hi Marija, In the picture I posted, I took the layer in May 2004 and removed in March 2005. I'm no expert at figuring out what to do with layers that don't produce lots of roots. What I have done on Acer palmatum, with reasonable success, is to take the failed layer off after one year, cut into the scar on the upper part, re-wrap with moss, and wait another year. Best regards, Carl |
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#6 | |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Quote:
This weekend I will check how many roots he has... I hope enough. |
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#7 |
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Attila Soos
Join Date: Jan-2002
Location: Los Angeles, California
Country: USA
Posts: 1,986
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Marija,
The only way to find out whether or the tree produced enough roots is to carefully uncover the top of the layered area and see how abundant the roots are. You can do that any time of the year (have a hand-mister ready to keep the exposed roots moist). If you are not happy with the result, you just have to repeat the procedure next year. When you layer a maple, the only acceptable result is a perfect one. Maples are very good at developing nice nebari, so that's an absolute must. It is very hard to correct a nebari where half of the surface roots are missing, so working with such a substandard material is a waste of time. The tree seems to be healty and vigorous, so there is no problem repeating the layer if necessary. Normally, one growing season should be enough for any deciduous tree. (For conifers, you need more than one season) |
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#8 |
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veteran
Join Date: Apr-2004
Location: Volcano
Country: Hawaii
Posts: 442
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In the picture is that a verticle strip of bark connecting the 2 cuts? If so, this will defeat your intention. Acer are so easy to layer in my experience. Wait for the roots to become a little brown, not white, then you can cut.
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#9 | |
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Attila Soos
Join Date: Jan-2002
Location: Los Angeles, California
Country: USA
Posts: 1,986
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Quote:
You are right bruce, this may be a good "excuse" for the tree not to send out the roots we want. |
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#10 | |
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Old Mister Crow
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Quote:
I totally agree, for a relatively small branch or relatively young plant in a garden/nursery pot setting. (And by this criterion, my campestre above probably belongs in the compost bin). Do you think this holds for older, larger material in a collected setting, such as Marija's tree? I don't have any experience collecting maples, so I just don't know. -Carl |
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