i am starting some trees for seed as i'm new to bonsai i bought my serrissas i wanted but decided i'd better learn to take care of them from the start tooi haven't even started to learn the art of training and styling them but i figure i will have alot better knowledge by time these are viable specimens to create for now i started weeping pine, orchid, chinese wisteria and japanese red maple so that outta give me a year or to to do some more learning and if i mess up more stock to work with that i can decide about from the start how to do

Thanks for this Article. I've found it very clear and interesting.

There is much to think about in this article. What point is there in taking cuttings that are straight and uninteresting, and growing them without creating movement and taper? What point is there in an airlayer of an uninteresting portion of a completely straight trunk?

Work on movement needs to be started as soon as the tree is strong enough to overcome it. Either wiring or directional pruning, or a combination of both, taking into consideration the ultimate size that would be best for the species. Why grow "wood" quickly, if it does not have what you want for bonsai?

I've started wiring my cuttings, so that they have movement right from the beginning. It is easier to cut the wire off after the cutting has developed roots, than it is to wire the cutting after rooting has begun. Wiring the cutting as it is removed from the parent plant gives the opportunity to start out with movement immediately, and taking into consideration where the internodes are, you can plan the branch structure of a future mame or shohin. When the wire is removed, after the roots have grown and the wood is lignified, the tree does not need to be wired again and it can grow unhindered. Some stock is only able to be wired when very young, and will snap if wiring is left too late.

Not enough attention is paid to nebari and underlying root structures. There is no need to let the roots wind round and round the pot, or develop one-sided, when methods exist to create better root systems right from the start. A little care and attention early on, will give a rewarding result in years to come.

If a particular species grows long internodes when field grown, and doesn't bud back between internodes, then don't try to field grow it and still make a smaller tree from it. Or, use methods of shortening the internodes while field growing it. Bear in mind the ultimate use of the tree, and by making sure that smaller internodes exist on the entire trunk, you give yourself options that will help you to succeed in the future.

Thanks for the article Al, it's definitely true.

Joanie

Who is SMOKE? Oh! He must be Al? Then, Al must be SMOKE?

I guess that clears it up...?

So...to the point...

Why do people post or write an article using a "phantom" name or a "ghost" name?

Advice, commentary, critique...whatever...from a "phantom" or a "ghost" is just so much gobbledygook if I don't know from whence it came.

Maybe it's just me...

Pat...Southern Arizona USA

This thread was started on Dec. 3 2004 when I assume Al went by that name. Good follow up Joanie.

Ash

Smoke was my nickname many years ago. MANY years ago. It was a cool nickname and one very befitting. I did outgrow the "smoke" but never outgrew the nickname. I use it at Bnut today. I did post under this name for a while here in 2004 but decided that I was better known as bonsaial for the best part of ten years.

It's too bad that there have been so many that have ruined information on the web. I feel that all information should be accompanied by pictures. A strict photo policy will make the web a good place in a short time. There is never a problem like this with information at IBC. That first picture supplied with the words tells the story in a hurry. Jim Lewis does a very fine job of moving the lessor to the appropriate forum.

Al

Thank you Al...