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Moss 102
In the last article Moss 101 we covered the basics of moss and how it grows. We also shared some great links, compiling available information on moss into one single thread. In this installment we will cover, as promised, my personal techniques for cultivating moss. In the next installment we will cover applying moss.
When collecting moss to cultivate, you'll want to look in bright sunny places as it is very difficult to cultivate moss that has spent it's life in shady areas in the sunny confines of a bonsai pot. When picking out moss to cultivate, keep in mind the texture, color, shape, depth, and feel of the moss. This is the moss that will eventually end up on your bonsai soil, keep appearance in mind. You will also want to cultivate more than one species of moss as it more appealing to have different types, colors, and textures planted together in you bonsai, I will dive deeper into this on the next installment. Rooftops, sidewalk cracks, patios, and open sunny field are all excellent areas for collecting. 1) Moss growing on a rooftop. 2) Moss in an open sunny field. Will |
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#2
by
Will_Heath
on
11-Jul-2005
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I use two different techniques for cultivating moss which I will call the "paste" and the "tray" techniques. The paste technique is my preferred method and the one I use the most often. When there is not enough moss to use this technique with, as in the case of a small piece of Vance Wood's silver moss I acquired, I will use the tray technique.
For the purposes of this article I will do both techniques side by side so you can get an idea of the differences. When I collect moss, I place it in a sunny spot and let it dry out some, not completely but enough to be come easy to crumble and cut. Traying it I take a shallow container with small drainage holes and put an inch of fines or sand into the bottom and mist it until it is damp. I then take my moss and mince it very fine with a razor blade and then sprinkle it evenly on the surface of the sand or fines. I then mist again and put in a dappled shade spot being sure that the top never completely dries out. It will usually require misting once a day. In two weeks time the entire surface will be green and shortly there after you will have a perfect sheet of moss. I have grown the moss in it's original container for over a year and it is a handy way to keep moss ready. The main draw back is that the sheet is always some what uneven, which if you are using pieces when applying, is not a big problem. Pasting it This is a method that I have described here before. I collect moss and let dry slightly as mentioned above. I then use a blender dedicated to this use only and add beer (some people use butter milk or water) and blend until I have a paste with the consistently of mortar. I then place a brick into a tray without drainage holes and fill the container with water, the brick acts like a wick constantly drawing water up. I spread the paste on top of the brick and mist daily. This technique will allow you to take perfect sheets off of the brick easily, whenever you need them. The past can also be used on your rocks in your shade garden, the moss will grow as long as it is keep moist. I have seen garden benches, walls, and statues covered and decorated with moss using this technique. 1) Empty trays and brick ready for use. The tray on the left has had drainage holes punched in the bottom. 2) The trays ready for moss. The one on the left ready for the traying technique and the one on the right ready for paste. 3) Moss chopped and ready for "traying." 4) Moss in blender ready to be blended. 5) Moss in blender ready to be applied. Will |
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#3
by
Will_Heath
on
11-Jul-2005
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1) Finshed trays.
2) Finished trays. 3) Moss applied to rock. |
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#4
by
Will_Heath
on
11-Jul-2005
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Typically the moss grown with the traying technique will be actively growing in just a couple weeks and ready to use in three to four. Once there, however, it can be kept for use and cultivation stock for quite a long time provided it is not allowed to dry out completely.
The same applies to the pasting technique. I hope this helped to explain how I cultivate moss. Next time up, I will show you how I apply moss to bonsai and the different techniques and patterns I use for different styles. Will Heath |
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#5
by
Will_Heath
on
12-Jul-2005
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Has anyone ever used these techniques or is there another way that I do not yet know about?
Will |
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#6
by
Newt
on
16-Jul-2005
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I have not tryed these techniques yet. I have just collected the moss in small chunks, placed the chunks on some moist fines, press them in, sprinkle more fines into the gaps (as described in Al's article) (I think it was Al's, sorry if not) and place under the bench.
You may get thinner sheets using your method though. Newt |
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#7
by
Will_Heath
on
16-Jul-2005
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Newt,
Mossing as you have described will work well and I have done that often myself. However, when you cultivate, you have a number of different types of moss always available to you and you control the size pieces you use. If I write 103 on this I will show some of the advantages of cultivating over collecting moss. One major one is with the different types. I tend to use a few different types of moss in the same bonsai because it gives the illusion of different plants growing under the tree, it gives multiple textures, and it allows for more creativity than a single species. Cultivating also allows me to share special mosses with friends and to keep a great species handy. It also gives me whole sheets of moss to custom cut instead of pieces is easier for me and allows me to cover big areas if needed. Lastly (for now) as I have said before, sidewalk moss and such may contain residue of pesticides, fungicides, herbicides or other harmful chemicals due to it just being there when applications are made. I know I am slightly paranoid in this aspect, but I feel better growing my own. Will Last edited by Will_Heath : 16-Jul-2005 at 11:12 AM. |
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#8
by
Newt
on
16-Jul-2005
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Makes sence Will. Except one thing...
"Lastly (for now) as I have said before, sidewalk moss and such may contain residue of pesticides, fungicides, herbicides or other harmful chemicals due to it just being there when applications are made." Either way you are collecting moss to start with so if they had anything on them then it would still go into your plantings right? Or am I missing something? One thing that would be a great advantage though is many times I leave the moss in my plantings and they often die in the full sun that the bonsai love. In the past I have had to collect more, nice looking stuff, were using your method I just cut up the dried moss and re-use! Newt |
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#9
by
Will_Heath
on
16-Jul-2005
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Quote:
Instead of taking it from the ground and placing it directly onto my bonsai, it is grown for a month or more in a different container while being watered regularly before placing it on my bonsai. Good question, Newt, I hope my answer is clear enough. Will |
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