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  #1  
by Jur on 27-Apr-2004
The First Experience Of Making Tanuki

Following Matt’s advices not to waste time, expecting while plants will grow up, I’ve decided to try to make bonsai in tanuki technics. A snag for aquariums from the African tree mopani (it seems to be dense and very hard) and an inexpensive juniper were found and bought (the snag cost 5$ and juniper – 9$, the pot – also 9$).
Height of a basis (snag) from the ground – 30 cm, a juniper – 40 cm. Naturally, not all is ideal: the pot - it seems to me too tall and a little heavy, but it was the best choice from available - I shall consider, that it is the training container, and for a year while when a juniper feel OK, something better can be found. Now I see it’ll be better if the lowest and thickest branch goes to the right – in a counterbalance to an inclination of a tree. Yes, it’s really the truth, first of all you should imagine what you want to have finally and only after it to operate.
But now I have a good lesson and hope to avoid the similar mistakes in future.
Formation is not finished, but I would like to hear your comments, and maybe some advices.
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File Type: jpg 1tan-01.jpg (42.1 KB, 307 views)
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  #2  
by Jur on 27-Apr-2004
I am better in buying, replanting, watering and nursering plants, and my brother is better with any civil (construction) work, so hands on a photo everywhere belong to him.
First of all horizontal saw cut of the snag was made and it was processed by the grinding machine. The snag was also processed by an antiseptic.
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File Type: jpg 1tan-1.jpg (59.3 KB, 298 views)

Last edited by Jur : 27-Apr-2004 at 11:03 AM.
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  #3  
by Jur on 27-Apr-2004
For the manual the article “Creating A Tanuki Bonsai ” was used ( http://www.bonsailearningcenter.com...nuki_bonsai.htm) and a photo of trees in tanuki technics in BonsaiTalk gallery. There was a useful advice to raise a snag in a pot (for example, using flat stones) in order to reduce contact with the damp environment and to slow down decay processes. I have gone further – as flat stones were not found I cut out the piece of a ceramic tile and a snag was pasted to it (epoxy glue was used as my friend chemist told me, that after polymerization allocation of harmful substances stops. I am not confident, but has believed). So for destiny of a snag I now worry less, but main purpose is not to kill the tree!
The holes have been drilled in a tile for fastening in a pot by a wire. As height of a tile obviously did not suffice to raise a construction in a pot on a necessary height, plastic fuses from drinked bottles of wine were used (wine was so-so, never buy wine with plastic corks (fuses), even French wine, though fuses were useful this time!) – photo 8,11. In addition more places for roots were saved.
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File Type: jpg 1tan-2_1.jpg (66.9 KB, 299 views)
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  #4  
by Jur on 27-Apr-2004
For fastening the juniper in a groove I’ve made beam hangers of the steel wire, I do not dare to twist screws in an alive tree. Roots were constantly supported damp by spraying during replanting. On my sensations, the tree should not to be lost, but even if it happens, I can tell, that the operational experience was useful.
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File Type: jpg 1tan-3.jpg (42.5 KB, 257 views)
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  #5  
by Jur on 27-Apr-2004
Rear view.
Waiting for your comments, criticism and suggestions.
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File Type: jpg 1tan-02.jpg (27.8 KB, 277 views)
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  #6  
by thejimmyrigger on 27-Apr-2004
I like it! I've been toying with the idea myself, but I haven't found good dead wood to use ( but have carved the cr@p out of some dead sumac roots!). Tile is a good idea, make a few extra so you can raise her up if the need be.
Personally I like the your last picture as the front. Will the wood you used absorb a bleaching agent?
Looks good! Give us some photos come fall!!
jim
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  #7  
by Jur on 27-Apr-2004
Jim, thanks for the reply!
I didn't use any bleaching agents, but after covering the wood with an antiseptic the snag darkened, unfortunately. I have some difficulties with finding bleaching agents and lime sulphur
.

Last edited by Jur : 27-Apr-2004 at 01:19 PM.
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  #8  
by TreeBay on 27-Apr-2004
Thanks Jur for the lesson!

Did I say not to waste time? I wonder what I meant. I wish I could convince my siblings to help me do bonsai, too!

With your permission, I would like to reformat this thread as an article like we did with Ron's post on soil

Let me know - I think it would make the article even more accessible because the search engines pick up well on pages laid out like this.

Thanks & regards,

Matt
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  #9  
by Dale Cochoy on 27-Apr-2004
Guys,
FYI, Andy Smith of Golden Arrow Bonsai in Deadwood has a CD for sale on doing phoenix grafts. He did a nice workshop last year in Rochester at Int. Arboretum symposium. You can also get some great "base" stock from him ( old deadwood snags he's cut off).
Also, good CD on collecting.
Regards,
Dale
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  #10  
by Jur on 27-Apr-2004
Sorry, Matt! It was Carl Bergstrom who advice not to waste time. Sorry, Carl! (http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthr...=1995&highlight).
Certainly, no problem to reformat it to more convenient for the colleagues article. I'll be flattered . If you need more detailed information or separate photos, please let me know.

But as I can understand it's interesting as a technical leesson but I'll be grateful to hear some critical remarks. To tell the truth, now I'd like to make it another way, maybe playing this way (the idea was prompted to me by colleagues from russian bonsai forum).

This is virtual:
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File Type: jpg tan-v1.jpg (16.6 KB, 149 views)

Last edited by Jur : 27-Apr-2004 at 05:07 PM.
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