what's your recipe?

Joanie

Since it's one of the few things that we really can contol and use to our advantage, a good soil mixture is probably the biggest thing on our minds. Getting a soil that retains enough water, but drains well.... that retains nutrients without soil collapse.... that stays within the pH range of the tree... and that promotes good, healthy roots because of being a positive environment for root growth, is very important to everyone.

Joanie

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malik

I never really understood why people would use more than one type of inorganic material per mix. For example...some people use equal parts pine mulch, turface, and grit. Well...if the turface and grit are going to provide the same sort of drainage, why not use 2 thirds of one inorganic type and 1 third of the organic substance. Now that I have stated this, let me contradict myself.

I believe that each inorganic material does something unique. Turface provides great drainage, yet retains more water then say lava rock. Lava rock has a more rigid surface then say chicken grit. This will allow the roots to split and grip through the substance easier. So in fact it would be benificial to add more than one type of inorganic substance depending on the trees needs.

In closing, simple is better. The tree will grow in just about anything. It's health is dependant on the watering and feeding schedule.

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Repotter

"Since it's one of the few things that we really can contol and use to our advantage, a good soil mixture is probably the biggest thing on our minds. Getting a soil that retains enough water, but drains well.... that retains nutrients without soil collapse.... that stays within the pH range of the tree... and that promotes good, healthy roots because of being a positive environment for root growth, is very important to everyone."

Joanie

Taking control, hhmmm. Not to over simplify the importance of good soil.
But over a period of twenty years growing bonsai I have come to the conclusion just like most things in life, "Simpler is better"
The two ingredients I mentioned earlier in this thread are all you need to do the job and do it well.
If mixing expensive imported material will make you feel better than so be it. Your trees won't know the difference.

It will only make your back sore and your wallet thinner.

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"Anything is possible when you don't know what you are doing"................someone famous I think.

nsmar4211

Hec :
Yea, am going to the one or two mix idea...but those listed are all soils I have used that do work..... The yard sand mixes were also before I found my local source of turface .
Think I'm gonna mostly stick with the half and half mix (turface and bark) cause I'm getting lazy in my old age and am tired of trying to remember who is potted in what. Now to find a source of small cheap bark! The bigger portulacaria that I'm not trying to grow out will get more turface though....

Sifting? Bahh humbug. I've sifted.........and gotten a sore back.... forget it. For now, I just take out the big big stuff. I sift up whatever I've mixed up, pot the bigger trees first (the big stuff makes its way to the top) and wait till the bottom of the bucket to pot up the small trees since the smaller stuff will be there. I sifted out the last bag of turface in a colander... until I realized I was losing most of it! grrrr.

I forgot to add, I've also used Scultz Cactus soil for the succulents and some ficus. Only problem I found is after a year or so the peat tends to take over (and the sand has washed out) and it's hard to rewet... but works fine for small pots that are repotted often!

Joanie

So you use turface and aged pine bark, for everything?

That's like eating Mac and Cheese every night. Sure, you'll survive, but dang that's dull.

But seriously, do you have mame and shohin? Or are all of your trees large?

Joanie

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Repotter

Joanie, I do have shohin and some mame, but I will do a special finer mix for the mame.
For the shohin I just use the same as for my bigger trees but pick out any large particles, which really isn't that much since this aged pine bark I use is broken down to smaller pieces. It looks as if it has already been screened when it comes out of the bag.

Oh by the way, I don't eat my bonsai mix nor mac and cheese, yuck!
But my trees love the mix.

__________________
http://www.tellys.com

http://www.Fourseasonsbonsai.com
The original Four Seasons Bonsai Club of Michigan.
Our guest master in August is Pedro Morales.
Tellys Greenhouse, 3301 John R road, Troy Mi. 48083

Four Seasons Bonsai Club meetings monthly.
Troy, Michigan

"Anything is possible when you don't know what you are doing"................someone famous I think.

rlist

Over the past 4 years I have had good luck with:
a) Pumice - 100%
b) Pumice and bark - 70/30
c) Pumice and lava - 50/50
d) Pumice, lava and bark - thirds
e) Pumice, lava, bark and oil dry - quarters
f) Pumice, lava and akadama - thirds
g) Pumice, lava and turface - 35/35/30

As long as the mix is free draining and hasn't broken down, the user will be able to fit a watering schedule and fertilizer regimine that fits for their trees, mix and area - and if they have any clue at all their trees will "grow great in that mix". I have seen a variety of trees grow great in all of these mixes, and have come to the conclusion that what works best is what people use the most and have the most confidence in - kinda like fishing - you catch the most fish with whatever you like the best and use the most...

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grampz

Now this is what it all boils down to in the end...Regardless of the components, ratio of components, or size of granules, as long as it is free draining in the particular pot...One must be astute enough to adjust the watering and fertilizing to the need of the tree species, the pot, and the location...Learn to read the trees needs...It will work if you only pay attention...

For what it is worth...I use turface, Oil dri, lava, composted pine bark, or haydite, for most trees, in whatever mix ratio happens to come together in my mixing container, and what ever I have the most of at the time...I will occasionally add chopped sphagnum if I need to develop roots...I usually use mushroom compost, or top soil, mixed with whatever grit is handy for trees which need more moisture retention such as bald cypress, willow leaf oak, crape myrtle, water elm, etc...And for bald cypress which are in development requiring faster growth, I use 100% top soil or mushroom compost in a container with no drainage...

What I am attempting to say is, it really does not make that much difference what you use or in what ratio...What is the most important thing is adapting your soil, to either the needs of the tree, or to your personal habits of watering and fertilizing...Learn to read your trees...

Regards
Behr

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watzone69

Howdy Behr!

I think I read in a post of yours that you sometimes used the cheap potting soil from HEB. Me too (my wife also loves it for her tomatoes and asparagus)! Now I can't find it though. They've got some tiny bags of 88 cent stuff and one bag barely fills a couple of decent sized pots.

Is this the case in the San Antonio HEBs?

Best,
Mike