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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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The Water absorption of 4 Bonsai Soil Types
The Water absorption of 4 Bonsai Soil Types
This is a test report on the water absorption capacity of 4 common bonsai soil types. The tested soil types are; Akadama, Kiryu, Kanuma & Seramis. Short Description of soil types Akadama: Akadama is type of red clay imported from Japan. It comes in several qualities, fired and unfired. The unfired variety can absorb more water, but will break down quicker in the soil. Used in the experiment was a hard double-brand Akadama type. Kiriyu: Kiriyu is a hard volcanic soil with a high lime content, also imported from Japan Kanuma: Kanuma is a yellow soft volcanic soil with a high acidity, usually used for acid-loving plants like Azaleas. Seramis: Seramis is a brick-orange high-fired clay granulate, with a high water retention capacity, which will not break down in the soil over time. Testsetup Initially all soils have been sifted to get an even granular size for all types. Removed were all particles smaller than the small size standard bonsai sieve, and all particles larger than the medium size standard bonsai sieve. In a secondary experiment I sieved both the bag of Kiriyu as well as the bag of Kanuma in four different sizes. Fines, 1-2mm, 2-4mm, >4mm. Here are two pictures of the Resulting proportions in granular sizes. All four soil types have been dried in the oven at 100C for several hours to remove any remaining traces of retained water. A volume of 200ml was measured out from each soil and each batch was weighed. Once everything was weighed another 200ml of water were added to each batch. Everything was left standing for 60 minutes, and than the water was drained from each batch with a kitchen sieve in the order in which water was added to them. Finally all batches were weighed a second time, and the difference between the two measurements was calculated. Measured Results Akadama: Dry: 140gr Wet: 215gr Diff: 75gr Kiriyu: Dry: 150gr Wet: 200gr Diff: 50gr Kanuma: Dry: 50gr Wet: 140gr Diff: 90gr Seramis: Dry: 75gr Wet: 135gr Diff: 60gr Margin of error: +/- 5gr. Additional Observations The Akadama seemed to soak up the water immediately and none remained floating, while the Kiriyu still had some floating paritcles after an hour. Both the Kanuma and the Seramis had a substantial amount of floating particles throughout the hour the were left soaking. Stiring did not improve the situation.
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Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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My Conclusions?
I am somewhat disappointed by the Seramis. I had expected it to retain more water than it did. I do find the light weight an advantage in larger pots. I am still convinced that a combo of Akadama and Seramis would provide a well draining soil with a long lifespan. The fact that Seramis does not break up in the soil means that it will not provide any clayminerals, something that can be fixed by mixing with Akadama. My main issue and something that I’ve never seen addressed here, is the simple fact that clayminerals provide important nutrients, and any high-fired clay-product will probably not provide them to the soil. I think a 3:2:1 ratio of Akadama, Seramis, light peat or pinebark (organics) should provide a longlived and suitable soil for most plants. Mix in some lime to neutralize the PH if necessary. Kiriyu is really not worth the trouble imho, it is expensive and has little added value exept for its color maybe. I’d replace the Kiriyu in you mix with a cheap gravel, and adjust the ratio of my mix a bit. I did note that the Kanuma was much lighter than everything else, weighing a third of the Akadama and Kiriyu and only half of what the Seramis does at the same dry volume. It was terribly crumbly and soft though. I had originally bought the Kanuma for a potted azalea of mine, but doubt that I’m going to use it, if it really breaks down as fast as it seems. I think I’d mix Akadama and peat, or stretch the Kanuma with Akadama and Seramis to increase the lifespan of the mixture. My Azalea has been standing on Seramis and peat for a year, and is loving it. All these mixtures are quite expensive, and I would like to have a light and fluffy mixture for those 30-40L training containers. Something in the direction of pottingsoil/peat and 1-2mm aquarium gravel. Maybe quite heavy, but cheap. Perlite seems not available here on retail. A 20L pondbasket full of Akadama and Seramis is more expensive than most of the mallsai available in the average garden center here. ![]() … Stefan
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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#4 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Carlsbad, California..coastal desert
Country: United States
USDA Zone: 11
Posts: 5,242
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Stefan, what clay minerals are you referring to, in the breakdown process? And isn't it easier to supply those minerals in another form, rather than through a process that causes the soil itself to become too fine and compact?
Joanie
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"You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you a look that says, 'Wow, you're right! I never would've thought of that!'" ~ Dave Barry |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Clay minerals have the capacity to bind and exchange H+ ions, and as I understand it the clay content in soils has a rather significant effect on soil PH. Apparently sandy soils naturally have a lower ph requirement than loam/clay soils.
Also it seems that clay and organic material form a chemical complex that increases soil fertility. This complex forms a nutrient buffer in the soil and also buffers the hydrogen ions, stabilizing the soil PH and preventing souring of the soil. My source also says that soils without this clay-organics complex can never be optimally fertile. This is at the outer limits of my understanding though, maybe that someone that knows more about this can elaborate. Stefan
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell Last edited by node : 6-Mar-2006 at 12:53 PM. |
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#6 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Carlsbad, California..coastal desert
Country: United States
USDA Zone: 11
Posts: 5,242
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That's wayyy over my head at this point.
So maybe others will chip in with explanations? Joanie
__________________
"You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you a look that says, 'Wow, you're right! I never would've thought of that!'" ~ Dave Barry |
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#7 |
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BonsaiTalk Enthusiast
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Node, you could have done an article for the contest with this information; thanks very much, this is excellent
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#8 | |
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Trunk Collector
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Quote:
Don't let me put words in your mouth Node, but it sounds like you're talking about CEC (cation exchange capacity). This is the ability for a soil component to temporarily hold on to nutrients, and slowly release them back. Generally a higher CEC means you have to fertilize less often. Clays (fired or unfired) have pretty good CEC, as I understand it. Brian
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There's a difference between taking your art seriously, and taking yourself too seriously. |
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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I believe CEC is part of this, but I don't think it is the whole of it. There seem to be some specific chemical processes between clay and organic materials that are not covered by CEC.
This is something I'm actually pretty interested about, because I've read about this relationship between clay and organics in several places, but there seems to be very little empirical evidence that it actually makes a whole lot of a difference compared to purely inorganic mixtures which seem to work fine for many people. Consider hydroponics even. Really what are the benefits of that hand of potting soil in your mix? Stefan
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell Last edited by node : 6-Mar-2006 at 02:41 PM. |
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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"Kiriyu is really not worth the trouble imho, it is expensive and has little added value exept for its color maybe. I’d replace the Kiriyu in you mix with a cheap gravel, and adjust the ratio of my mix a bit."
Been a while since I read up on it, but I recall Kiryu sand to have one of the higher CEC values making it quite attractive. Slight work to further results into water volume retained per cubic soil volume with common volume unit would be interesting and move towards more refined comparable data I understand your interest in water absorption magitude of various materials. But also very important is the negative pore pressure and related suction properties associated with these voids in the materal that have taken up some water. If suction of material is high the tree roots will have little success getting all but the surficial water out in a timely manner. Akadama holding 20% more water is not a preference to me if it can't deliver it in time for the trees optimum needs just for example. I'm more interested in a balanced delivery of the water over time with a high CEC which I suspect many of us are. You did some lab work which most don't get to do, thanks for posting your info. If I get some other soils I might supplement this, I've got a full soils lab available for easy access. |
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