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Substitutes for crushed lava?

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Old 3-Mar-2008   #11
BONSAI_OUTLAW
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lol..I grew up in Nawlins....You should have went to Covington and talked to Guy Guidry. He can hook you up with whatever you need.
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Old 3-Mar-2008   #12
Myrtle
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www.bonsaimonk.com sells lava. It's about $12 per 20-25 pound bag.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #13
subnet_rx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BONSAI_OUTLAW
lol..I grew up in Nawlins....You should have went to Covington and talked to Guy Guidry. He can hook you up with whatever you need.
I really should have I guess. I went to a couple of places. One had a good variety of trees, but were very high. The other was in jefferson parrish so I'm just glad I made it out alive.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #14
Vance Wood
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Turface is OK if you get the stuff that is fired at a high temperature. There is a trait that both Turface and Lava stone have in common that Chicken grit does not have; a cation exchange capacity. This is the ability for a soil component to hold on to the ions deposited by fertilizer (the short story). Schultz makes a product that is for all intents and purposes Turface. If you can't find the lava I would consider using this. I do not know about Pumice, I don't have access to this stuff but I doubt it's CEC., glad to be proved wrong if anyone knows for sure.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #15
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These are my ingredients:

!/3 Turface
1/3 ground pine bark
1/3 granite chicken grit.

All sifted. I keep it stored in buckets mixed. If planting trees that need looser soil I ad more grit. If I'm planting trees that need more organic I add pine bark.

This has worked well for me for many, many years. So, I'm wondering what's the problem with Turface?

By the way some people do substitute oil/water drying compounds for Turface, apparently with some success as long as they get the right kind.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #16
Vance Wood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfecme
These are my ingredients:

!/3 Turface
1/3 ground pine bark
1/3 granite chicken grit.

All sifted. I keep it stored in buckets mixed. If planting trees that need looser soil I ad more grit. If I'm planting trees that need more organic I add pine bark.

This has worked well for me for many, many years. So, I'm wondering what's the problem with Turface?

By the way some people do substitute oil/water drying compounds for Turface, apparently with some success as long as they get the right kind.


At least here over the last ten years or so Turface has been offered that is not fired at a high enough temperature for it to keep its structure for more than a couple of years, then it turns to moosh, mush, muck, sludge, and mucus. The product offered here by Schultz holds up better but it is more expensive than traditional Turface.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #17
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Ok I'll throw out the questions, does anyone know how the turface holds onto the fertilizer ions, how does this effect the trees( by Colins/mfgs words - toxic), and can it be remedied

Any idea if there would be a differance between organic or chemical ferts being used?? I'm going to check the mfg.s site to see if there is a simple explanation.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #18
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If you can't find Turface, try Schultz Aquatic Plant Soil at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, etc. I have been using it for years with no degradation.

It's more expensive but at least I can find it.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vance Wood
At least here over the last ten years or so Turface has been offered that is not fired at a high enough temperature for it to keep its structure for more than a couple of years, then it turns to moosh, mush, muck, sludge, and mucus. The product offered here by Schultz holds up better but it is more expensive than traditional Turface.

Yuk! That's not good. What we get down here in the southeast is pretty high fired, hard and seems to hold up. For clarity let me say that the Turface I'm using is MVP. I don't know if that makes a difference or not.

Do you suppose there may be a difference in the clay being used to manufacture the stuff in different areas of the country? Like, maybe in Michigan you need a mushy turface for your type of soil whereas we need a different consistency here? Sounds wierd to me, but certainly not outside the realm of possibility.

When I repot (1 - 3 years depending on tree), admittedly there is some breakdown, but not as you describe. So I'm at a loss to explain. Unless the mfr. has changed the process somehow.
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Old 4-Mar-2008   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcspeed
Ok I'll throw out the questions, does anyone know how the turface holds onto the fertilizer ions, how does this effect the trees( by Colins/mfgs words - toxic), and can it be remedied

Any idea if there would be a differance between organic or chemical ferts being used?? I'm going to check the mfg.s site to see if there is a simple explanation.



Turface (or any other component with a high cation exchange capacity) is negatively charged - an anion. It holds cations, like sodium, calcium, etc, which are positively chaged. Each type of cation will be held with a particular affinity (tightness), so one cation can be "exchanged" for another that binds tighter. Hence the term "cation exchange capacity" or CEC. Cations can be flushed from these surfaces with large quantities of nearly cation free water (rain water or distilled water), or by changing the pH to a more acidic level. More acidic means more hydrogen ions, also positively charged.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cation_exchange_capacity

As for your second question, organic or inorganic fertilizers both have cations. I suspect there wouldn't be much difference between the two.

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Last edited by BrianBay9 : 4-Mar-2008 at 05:57 PM. Reason: spelling
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