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#21 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Trim off excess wires and tuck the loose ends in - toward the rootball to prevent stabbing your fingertips in later steps.
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#22 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Add some additional scoops of soil over the top and drive them into the root ball using a pair of chopsticks in one hand.
The goal is not to jab the soil in place, but to push it down in with a slight wobbling motion. Use your free hand to feed additional soil into place.. Continue this process for several minutes working your way around the trunk. Add more soil and continue the process.
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#23 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Some folks like to hammer the pot edge with the heel of a hand. I think this is painful personally. If you want to do that, use a rubber mallet and be gentle!
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#24 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Level the soil and tamp it into place using a trowel, like this one.
Slope the soil edge down toward the lip of the container to help prevent erosion.
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#25 |
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Add a marker label upon which you've recorded the date of the transplant. I typically use REPOT 2/04 or something like that. The exact date may be important to you.
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#26 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Now the watering begins. This step is critical because it continues the process of settling the soil (to eliminate air gaps) and it also drives some of the fines out of the container so they won't clog the drainage holes.
Using a watering can or a hose with a fine rose, water the tree thoroughly until the water coming from the drainage holes is clear.
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#27 |
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Cut up a handful of sphagnum moss into 1" lengths and distribute them over the surface of the soil. This will help to keep ambient humidity up around the soil surface.
Water the tree again to get this moss well saturated.
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#28 |
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Aftercare -
At this point I will keep the tree in full spring sun, which is usually equivalent to open shade in summer. It's particularly important to get some morning sun on it to warm the root mass. You can go ahead and add some organic fertilizer or bone meal to help with root development. Mist the branches frequently, but only water when the soil has begun to dry out a bit. It should be draining very well, so it would be hard to overwater at this time. Within a few weeks you can remove the surface sphagnum.
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#29 |
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This concludes the rough edit of the Corkbark Black Pine repot. I should be back in here sometime to update the photographs!
Regards, Matt
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#30 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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Thanks Treebay
Treebay,
Thanks for the guide. Any chance you will get time to post the photos? I am getting ready to repot a cork bark into a display container (currently in a terra cotta growing pot). Very good advice in your post. Rob |
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