Organic Fertilizer - one or many?

kompik

So, I'm busy devouring Naka's first Techniques book and one thing he mentioned seemed somewhat dubious compared to other things I've read. On his section on fertilizer, he discusses how to make fertilizer "biscuits," and then suggests placing just one on the surface of the soil, in a corner or on the edge of the pot behind the trunk. Similarly, he suggests that if you use dust/powder rather than biscuits/cakes to make a large pile of in one spot on the soil.

For comparison, Koreshoff promotes placing multiple cakes (depending on the size of the bonsai) in different areas of the pot (e.g. one in each of the four corners).

Naka's fertilization method seems to imply that so long as any part of the root mass gets nutrients, the whole tree prospers. I know that junipers in particular exhibit a tendency to transfer water/food horizontally (thus their ease at being treated with severe shari techniques), but I didn't know that many other trees were like this. Koreshoff (and most other authors as well) doesn't seem to buy into this method, which further suggests something is amiss.

Now, since all of the other new ideas I found for the first time in Naka's book make good sense, I want to believe that I might just be ignorant on this point. When you water the tree, wouldn't the fertilizer only penetrate the soil in a conical region directly below the biscuit? If that's true, then wouldn't you have a disparity between the roots that were being fertilized (let's say about 1/3 at most) and those that weren't? Wouldn't that lead to uneven growth above as well, since the water and nutrients basically follow a direct vertical route from roots to branches & foliage? At least, that's how I understand the mechanics of tree biology, so if I'm way off here I'd rather be corrected now that have my trees suffer from my ignorance.

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agraham

I would think that any part of a plant could benefit from nutrients taken up by a single root.But by limiting the distribution of nutrients you would also limit the number of roots taking up nutrients.I think that this would have the affect of limiting nutrient uptake.

This is based on the idea that very coarse bonsai soils would also limit the distribution of nutrients in the soil/water matrix.

andy

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kompik

For those interested, Will Heath over at bnut mentioned that the soil acts more like a "paper towel" (now I get to put words into his mouth) because of capilary action and the network of fine roots in the soil, so the distribution of water and food would be more widespread than if you were just dealing with a pile of sand. I still have misgivings about using the single-biscuit method for very shallow bonsai pots, but he does have a good point.

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bisjoe

I prefer using a water soluble non-organic for a couple of reeasons. First, it will contact all of the roots and remain in the pores of the soil grits. Second, at least in my area, organics will attract creatures that can be destructive to my trees. Birds, mice, squirrels, and various insects will start poking around in the soil and disturb the roots or knock the trees over. Others may not have this issue.

bonsaikc

For what it's worth, when your tree develops a mycorrhizal mantle, fertilizer on any part of the soil will feed the tree.

However, placing just one cake on a pot is an insufficient means of feeding a tree. It was often proposed as a way to keep your tree from growing too much. One of our late members actually gave a talk about not fertilizing your trees...just repot! All this information is outmoded and keeps trees weak.

What you want for younger trees or trees in training is a powerhouse of a tree that provides more growth than you thought possible. This growth is the artist's palette, as Michael Persiano pointed out. Without that growth you are limited, and a weak tree is never good to work on.

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Rock Chester

Hello Kompic,

The book is 40 years old and the Man is dead but still is relevant for today. The idea of using one large fertilball was then to move it around during the growing season. You replace the one ball over and over with a fresh version.

Any one who knows the so Cal area (where Jonh Lived) knows that we try very very hard to promote Any little patches of moss on our trees . And as Organics will turn moss under it black, we move the ball to open areas.

Me, I like to hide the fertiballs under the soil in the corners because I dont really like the look of them, but am sold on the benifits of organics.

Look--- its your plant do want you want --experiment dont be locked in to any one guys ideas even if they are Nakasensei.

Now go and be fertile ..

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kompik

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and insights guys!

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