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Mixing a soil

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Old 4-Apr-2005   #21
laen ssor
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That is it. You don't want any potting soil, especially of the variety like Miracle Gro or any other fine mixtures like that. You want an open free draining mix that will hold enough moisture yet drain well. You should sift out all your particles to get rid of anything that goes through window screen size and anything larger than say 3/16 inch.

I have never heard of manure being used in bonsai soil. I would think that it might burn freshly trimmed roots. I use 1/3 turface, 1/3 volcanic rock, and 1/3 sifted fir bark.
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Old 4-Apr-2005   #22
Elm237
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Elmbonsai, you did'nt confuse me at all. Thanks for the tips!
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Old 4-Apr-2005   #23
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Oops!

I still don't know why people don't talk about the Japanese soils that are so GREAT. Price,availabillity,quality
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Old 4-Apr-2005   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elm237
I still don't know why people don't talk about the Japanese soils that are so GREAT. Price,availabillity,quality
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$

It's expensive to import the stuff. For the amount of soil I use, there is no way I could afford to tranplant this year if I used pure akadama. Same for most hobbiests, back-yarders, and "aspiring artists."

I've used akadama and it was great, but too expensive. So, I've done my resedarch and experimentation to find a cheaper mix that works well in my conditions.

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Old 6-Apr-2005   #25
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Hey Elm 237,
Here is a picture of some left over soil that I used this afternoon while taking cuttings of a ginkgo biloba in my yard.

This soil is the same ratio that the late great John Naka suggests in his book for ginkgo and several others.

This particular soil has "natural" river rock in it, I was experimenting to see how it looked, I would normally use red or black lava rock. It kinda looks like aqaurium gravel but it also looks oddly "natural."

This soil has 1 part each of top-soil, peat moss compost and medium and small gravel (sand). It drains fast, the first time I used this ratio I was astonished at how fast it drained.

I like using the top soil and peat moss because they hold a little extra water, in Southern Ca. we have odd weather, and sometimes we have very unforgiving summers. If I were to use a purely inorganic soil I would have to water excessively and I would and have lost trees.

Why are bonsai artists so against the use of organic soil components?
It's natural, were trying to give the illusion of natural and gravel doesn't look natural.
Just because a tree will grow in sand doesn't mean that it looks natural.
Im sure trees would grow in ground up plastic as well, but then thats a topic for another, well topic.

Sorry to take up so much space.
Let me know what you think of the soil.
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Old 6-Apr-2005   #26
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I have used a similar soil composition to yours for years and it was just OK. By the look of your soil, the composition probably does NOT fit within the standard particle sizes which are commonly quoted. With your dry climate I fully understand your choice. With my damp climate, you might understand mine...

I recently started (last year) using the inorganic composition on the grounds that it just seemed like a good idea. I had quite a few instances of soil compaction and some root rot with the old composition so I'm hoping for an improvement.

Jerry
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Old 6-Apr-2005   #27
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Organic based soils ( those with a high percentage of organics) are going to break down to quickly and you will have a higher probability of root rot and soil compaction. If you are planning on a repot every year possible not as big a deal but if you are planning on leaving your trees in the soil for a few years could be a problem.

As for the imported soils from Japan...cost is the issue to most. Akadama and Kanuma (sp) are not cheap...and that is an understatement. But if price was not an issue I would use them in a heartbeat!

Jay
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Old 6-Apr-2005   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay
Organic based soils ( those with a high percentage of organics) are going to break down to quickly and you will have a higher probability of root rot and soil compaction. If you are planning on a repot every year possible not as big a deal but if you are planning on leaving your trees in the soil for a few years could be a problem.

As for the imported soils from Japan...cost is the issue to most. Akadama and Kanuma (sp) are not cheap...and that is an understatement. But if price was not an issue I would use them in a heartbeat!

This depends of course on what type of organics you use. I use a uncomposted fir bark that takes years to break down.

Also one must remember that Akadama and Kanuma will break down very quickly unless you purchase the fired type, most people in wetter climates such as mine that use it will mix in lava roak or the like to enable these soils to hold their structure longer.

Will
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Old 6-Apr-2005   #29
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Thank you Will, I should have been more specific. I was talking to the 'useing potting soil' as the organic element. As for the Japanese soils of course the high fired is what I was talking about......the price of them all though is way out of my league.....But I may need to look into the Kanuma if my Azelias make it. Sorry to have confused the issue.
Jay
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Old 6-Apr-2005   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmbonsai
I know what your going through Elm237,
The other thing that upsets me is people throw around terms like grit and loam, like they know what they really mean!
Sandpaper has grit, not soil.

SOIL and MULCH, won't that kill my bonsai?
NO! But bad judgement will.



Soil does have grit in it. The river rock you reccomend in your later post is basically a larger grit. I use roughly 1/3 akadama 1/3 grit and 1/3 soil.
Because i live in a wet climate during the winter that can get pretty dry while im away on holiday so a middly free draining mix is about right for me, obviously those in a very dry climate my like to use more organic mixes.

Regards
Rowan
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