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Feed Me, Seymour!

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Old 24-Feb-2008   #11
Vonsgardens
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Andy,
I think Dave's point is that the full range of nurient's and their effects on plants may last for several months from a single fertilization. Just like with a defined salt mixture (e.g. Ammonium sulfate) there is both an immediate and a long term effect.

I cases where we use a good deal of organic material (bark) in our grow out medium we add lot's of chemical fertilizer (osmocote, etc) where we need lot's of nitrogen to feed the organisms that break down components of bark (lignocellulose, cellulose, etc) freeing carbon for use by the organisms that shate the pot.

Since our Bonsai mixes (mine and many others) contain no added organic material (except the roots and their friends) I am most comfortable in using organic based fertilizers to help establish and maintain normal soil microenvironmnets. This helps with nitrification and other processes to function as normal.

You will notice that I don't say everyone should use organics, I do because of the improvements I have seen in my own trees associated with shifting from chemical to organic over the past 10 years. What ever works best in your situation works best in your situation.

Like you, I just hope that we stimulate folks who don't fertilize enough to perhaps improve their tree care a little. Will save on many of the problems we see here. It is amazing what you can do to a well fertilized, drained and watered tree relative to a poor dry unfertilizzed tree.

Cheers,
John
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Old 24-Feb-2008   #12
Graydon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonsaikc
There's a good reason that Dave DeGroot is the Pacific Rim Collection Curator. I've been on the receiving end when asking him a question, and you almost wish you had the video going. It was from him that I first learned that "perched water tables in bonsai pots" is a fallacy.

I'm just going to hide behind the fact that this is the reasoning I've been taught, and the results show, as John mentioned, that taking off the cakes after candling does keep the needles from extending as much. One of the things I have come to trust is Boon's results, and therefore his advice. If that opens up a new can of worms around here, so be it, but I have never seen anyone get the kind of results he gets in the time frame he gets in, even allowing for a longer growing season. His methods works, and he didn't invent most of them. They come from decades of experience and teachers before him.

The pont is that I am no horticulturist and not much of a scientist. Nor do I want to take the time to do double-blind studies and read mountains of research. I want to grow trees and get the fastest results possible.


Thanks Chris, and yes video footage would have been good. Now that I am taking video with me on bonsai trips I will hopefully be able to catch some good stuff in the future. I wish I would have had the time to discuss exact application principals with him such as removal of the cakes as you guys mention. I never thought of it and I now regret not going deeper in to the discussion.

I'm with you on following proven (perhaps decades old) results. I'm glad you and John so freely share these tips you learn from Boon. I just can't stop thinking about the whys and how comes with organic and chemical fertilizer. Thanks for what appears to become a great discussion topic that we can all learn from and use daily to advance our own trees.
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Old 24-Feb-2008   #13
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As more or less stated, often too much attention goes to the visible part of the plant instead of the unseen foundation.

In the end improving the "soil" and therefore the roots, often requires both immediate and long term results for a tree's overall health. I am a fan of organics for this reason simply because (in So. Florida) I see great results.

I use about 60% Turface MVP, about 20% peat, and depending on the plant, 20% either fine bark chip, loam, or sand. All mixed with small amounts of various (beneficial) fungi spores as a basic soil.

I then use liquid organic fertilizers with nutrients that are chelated, meaning instantly available to plants and also employ bi-weekly foliar feeding (sprayed on and under the leaves) as many plants benefit from the underside of their leaves for nutrient intake.

If you are using various fungi to assist your root system you are also feeding them. I find that either 8-4-4 or 10-8-8 fertilizers seem to do the trick.

Finally, something with a bit of molasses (for instance) seems to be good. Whether this helps the plant, fungi or both convert simple sugars or just offers them directly, I don't know, but it does seem to work.

Cheers,

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Old 24-Feb-2008   #14
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I use both kinds of fertilizer.....simply because I have a ready source of organics (goat poo)-every couple weeks I toss a handful of pellets into the plants or whenever I rake oout the pens I'll toss it over the plants. I also rinse out my fish filters over my plants, dump the turtle water into the plants, etc. But I use chemical fertilizers on a more or less regular basis. I tried making manure tea but it ended up being a smelly yuck that the dog *loved* to drink out of... and poo balls just sound like dog treats to me!

One of the first things Jim Smith said to me when talking about Portulacaria afra's is that they'll take all the food you can throw at them and still want more...if they aren't a nice dark green keep feeding em! I didn't notice how true this was until I compared one newly purchased plant to my existing ones and saw the difference in the leaf color. Oooops....... That's when I went to the miracle grow/whatever is on sale chemical feedings....
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Old 28-Feb-2008   #15
PatArizona
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G’day G’day all…

"...Fertilize your trees. Use organic, use chemical, use both, use them however you like, just use them...".

The above statement is, IN MY OPINION, the best advice in this entire thread. Thank you John.

I happen to be of the school that uses exclusively liquid chemical fertilizer.

Across the years, I have arrived at a number of conclusions in regard to fertilizer. Here are a few of them...
  • The process of manufacturing “po-po” balls is messy, smelly and time consuming.
  • The ingredients are many and sometimes hard to find.
  • “Po-po” balls must decompose in order to render chemicals…as in chemical versus organic…that the roots can process. Decomposition takes time. The chemicals in the liquid chemical fertilizer that I use*, are available quickly when compared to those in rendered by “po-po” balls.
I have yet to learn of any difference between the chemicals rendered by “po-pos” and those from chemical fertilizers.

Micro organisms in chemical fertilizers that are not in nitrate form**, need to be broken down into a usable form.

Plants do know the difference between nitrates from an organic source or from an inorganic source.

* Dyna-Gro Grow 7-9-5 (NH4 and NO3)

** Plants readily take up and use two forms of soil nitrogen, ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3_)*. Other forms of nitrogen must be converted to one of these compounds by natural or artificial means before plants can utilize them directly as a source of nitrogen for plant growth. (Thus “nitrate form).
University of Nebraska

Works for me...

Pat
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THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life.

Pat Patterson...Bonsai in the Greater Bay Area, Northern California

Last edited by PatArizona : 28-Feb-2008 at 05:50 AM.
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