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Guest
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Re: Wiring...how damp is my soil?
Hi there
Going out on a limb here, different to other replies. Ok, probably stating obvious here, especially to people who probably know more about bonsai than I do, but moisture content in soil is no indication of moisutre content in plant. I agree with the replies that a plant that has moist soil may let the branches bend easier to avoid snapping, due to the higher moisture content in plant. My guess is this dry soil v's dryish during wiring is cos during wiring the plant is going to get a bit of movement. Moist soil may allow the whole root structure to move, possibly uplifting some roots. On the other hand if the soil is completely dry then possibly the opposite will happen. You may fracture or even snap off roots as it doesn't allow movement, and possibly fracture the trunk. This is only my guess, but I take it that it refers to root damage as really, you could have moist soil from a recent water, yet previous to that it was dry and plant was almost wilted. Yes the soil is moist, but doesn't mean the plant has high moisture content for wiring, as the plant is yet to take it up fully. Branches may snap. On the other hand yes the soil may become dry, maybe after 1 warm day, but the plant has a high moisture content. It may be fine to water. Also the soil could be just freshly watered, as compared to dryish. Freshly watered I would think would be better IF you go with the theory that the branches will bend better, but bad idea for movement of root ball in soil. Really if it isn't so much what I am talking about, and more to do with higher moisture in the plant then books should make references to plant condition and "watering well in the few days before wiring" rather than soil moisture content. I assume it isn't much discussed as it doesn't really matter too much. IMO I would just make sure plant isn't stressed, soil is anything but "saturated" so dry to dryish would be ok, and if anything, maybe spray branches with water from mist bottle to help with bending. Only thing I've ever read that perhaps isn't too obvious until you hear/read or experience it, is to not wire a recently rootpruned plant as movement of it in the soil may damage new root shoots Cheers Andrew -- Mid North Coast New South Wales Australia "Pat Patterson" <dezertrats@aol.com> wrote in message news:20040906045134.03671.00000240@mb-m04.aol.com... > G'day all... > > I guess the question should be "how damp should my soil be?". > > However, to the point...traditional wisdom tells us that our soil should be > relatively "dry" when wiring. For example, Tom Zane says in his Syllabus (4th > ed., 2001) that the soil "...should be relatively dry..."; and, Deborah > Koreshoff says the soil should be "dryish" (to the point that it is due for > watering), not turgid. I've heard the same thing several times in lectures, > classes and workshops as recently as 5 years back. > > Now, I have recently been told that this thinking is changing...that there > should be more moisture than previously thought, in the soil. > > I have researched at least 15 books, plus other sources, and curiously, the > subject is seldom discussed. > > Is the traditional wisdom changing? Is there, in fact, significant evidence > that indicates more moisture? > > Would like to hear your thoughts. > > Have a good day... > > Pat > > > Dez of the Arizona High Dezert, at 4550', Oracle, AZ, > 2000' above Tucson Sunset Zone 10 USDA Zone 8 > aka: Pat Patterson 'riding off in all directions' > |
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#2 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Wiring...how damp is my soil?
Michael said:
>The logic works for me, but experience tells me otherwise. I have bent >some extremely old branches with tight growth rings. The trees that >were allowed to dry out before the stylings were significantly easier to >bend. I attribute this to the amazing strength of the water swollen >inner bark. The first step is to reason something out, as I did in my post, but the second step is to test the hypothesis. There are two hypotheses I can come up with: one, that increased tension in the water columns of the xylem with drying-out makes the branch more flexible, or two, that turgor of the inner bark has some effect on the breakability of the bark (I can't think of any way that the inner bark could influence the wood, sorry!). I like the former hypothesis. To test it, I'd use tomato plants. Tomatos transport water to the leaves by two different methods: positive pressure, pushing water up the stem by an osmotic pump or: negative pressure, using transpiration to PULL water up the stem. If the pressure of water in the xylem has an effect of flexibility, then I'd expect the tomatos using the ionic pump to snap easily, and the tomatoes using transpiration to snap. I have tools to measure soil water potential and leaf water potential; I have tools that can measure the pressure I'm putting on stems. The only problem I can see is that I'd be exposing the plants to different levels of humidity, and that would be a complicating factor. However, if I got promising results with the tomato, I could try: sugar maple saplings!!!! In spring, before leaves emerge, maples use an osmotic pump to move water up the stem ("the sap is running"). After leaves emerge, maples use a transpiration pump. Now you've got me all excited! Except today I am grinding up soybean roots to use the tissue for PCR analysis! Nina. Yes. I dream about experiments. |
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