[IBC] Emergency! Please help me save this small collected elm!

Justin Diaz

My friend drove over today with an elm that he recently collected from
his yard. Basically he butchered the tree. It stood over 6 feet tall,
and he hacked it down to about a foot and a half, "for easy moving,"
AFTER he ripped it out of the ground with only most of a thick root, and
4 smaller roots with actual fine branching tips, none more than 6 inches
long. Also, while he was pulling, and twisting, and bending the tree to
pull it out, he cracked the nebari and lower trunk to about 3 inches up
the tree.

Normally, I would give up on this tree, and apologize to my friend.
Unfortunately, this little tree is definitely worth saving, as my friend
lives on a farm, and the small tree has been picked at over several
years by assorted animals and has an incredibly thick and interesting
trunk, and lots of sturdy, low branches. i believe if i can save this
tree, within 2 years, i could have a subsantial piece for my collection.

I'm in Richmond, VA, and it's a standard elm that grows around here,
that's about as far as i could get from the brutalized stub that my
friend brought by.

I don't want to give up, even though this may be beyond my abilities,
but i feel compelled. also, i lose nothing but a few hours, and i gain
the experience.

Thank you all so much for your input!

Justin

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kevin bailey

A bit late in the year for a potting but Elms are tough so you may have a chance.

Will the crack in the trunk and nebari show or has it sprung closed? If closed it should heal eventually. A smear of some branch sealant would probably help, though I don't think it's essential. Hope the roots didn't dry out? Trim the ends of the thicker brutalised roots cleanly.

Keep all the fibrous root that you can. Box it up in free draining soil. Place in semi shade and protect from wind. Tie down to the box if it is at all unstable. Water in well and then wait until it is almost dry before watering again. Pray.

I cut 75% of the root off my collected elm to get it into a box this
spring and it hasn't turned a hair. It's producing lots of new growth and even a few bonus suckers that are detatched and rooting very easily.

Cheers

Kev Bailey
Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales

Pat Patterson

G'day Justin...

Good advice from Kevin...here's a bit more...

The following is a generic scenario, and needs to be tailored to your area and
species. Also, it is based on one dezertrat's experience.

Always remember that the best advice is very likely to come from local club
members.

Having said that, if you can, plant your tree in the ground to grow out for at
least one year…two or more is probably better. Since I do not grow out in
the ground, I'll leave that to be covered by someone else.

Consider when you read the following that I live on the edge of the Southern
Arizona High Desert...at 4550' elevation. Also, I don't do a lot of
collecting.

However, when I do (rarely) collect, I pot up the small (less than 2" trunk)
subjects in oversized training pots and use pure perlite. I've had a few of
these produce in ONE year, more roots than I could use. You do have to watch
perlite closely since it tends to hold on to too much water. On subjects with
trunks over 2" I generally use pure pumice...with good results.

Pot you tree in an oversized training pot or tub or wooden box (oversized is
the key word). Pot it in pure pumice or perlite. Disturb the roots as little
as possible. Soak the soil thoroughly with SuperThrive or KLN.

Place it out of direct sun, protect from wind, and watch it daily. Don't over
water…the soil should be moist but not wet, and it should not be allowed to
dry out. Mist daily, or more often.

After 3-5 weeks, gradually introduce your plant into direct morning sun. You
should soon be seeing signs of new growth.

The plant should be left to establish itself for a minimum of one year…two
years is better for most plants.

Do this as soon as possible.

Be prepared for the worst...the elm mignt not survive, but have a go at
it...and, good luck.

Have a good day.

Pat

Dez of the Arizona High Dezert, at 4550', Oracle, AZ,
2000' above Tucson Sunset Zone 10 USDA Zone 8
aka: Pat Patterson 'riding off in all directions'

Michael Persiano

In a message dated 6/1/2004 4:48:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dezertrats@AOL.COM writes:

> Pot you tree in an oversized training pot or tub or wooden box (oversized is
> the key word). Pot it in pure pumice or perlite. Disturb the roots as little
> as possible. Soak the soil thoroughly with SuperThrive or
> KLN.

One suggestion: if the root pad has been reduced to nothing (and it sounds like the bulk of the root mass is gone), I would not pot this in an oversized pot AT THIS TIME. Normally, an oversized pot will support rapid growth, if the tree is health and ha
s a substantial root pad.

To the contrary, pot the tree in a smaller container. Why? The tree is less likely to develop root zone problems (root rot) from excessively wet soil conditions. The tree will not be using much water at this time, and the best way to promote root grow
th is to allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Be certain to allow the soil to almost dry out between waterings.

I hope that this helps. I would also apply Roots 2 liquid or Superthrive to stimulate root development.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
http://hometown.aol.com/iasnob

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++++Sponsored, in part, by John Quinn++++
************************************************** ******************************
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail BONSAI-REQUEST@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM +++++