small white bugs, fast crawlers in soil, please help ID...!

AvengingAB

Huh. MP29k, you're right most termites are soliders and don't have wings, but usually the reproductives do and the to-be queens and kings. Under a lens, I don't see the mandibles on these insects to identify them as termites, these insects are less elongated and literally sesame shaped with no distinctive head segment - but smaller than sesame seeds. It seems that termite species are larger than the bugs in my pot, being about 0.5 to 1 mm at most in length. That's like.....0.02" - 0.03". Termites tend to be 0.125" to over 1". The only reason why you can see these bugs is that they move pretty fast. They could be aphids, but they don't venture on the leaves or create any sticky residue. I've heard of aphids that stay in the soil too, but these seem to have a slightly harder shell, uncharacteristic of aphids. Pretty sure they're some kind of mite....just not sure what kind and if they're are harmful or not. They seem to clone themselves pretty fast. Maybe they have an underground copy machine.

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rockm

They probably are NOT doing the damage you've described. They are most likely there because of a larger problem. It sounds like you're overwatering the plants. Damaging soild insects tend to be ON the roots, not near the surface, moving around. Insects that feed on roots tend to attach themselves to the roots and stay there.

I would look to moderating the watering a bit.

AvengingAB

Hi, thanks for your reply. Interesting. Yeah I agree with you, the serissa's probably slightly on the overwatered side because that pot is deeper and larger than most of the other pots. I've slowed down on its watering cycles though. It seems to be doing fine in terms of leaf growth and vigor, however, it still grows its leaves more dense and smaller than my other serissas. SLowing down the watering cycles has made it so that I have to dig deeper to find the insects, but it seems that they've just moved further down in the soil past the critical water line where the soil is always somewhat damp.

As for the bugs: Well, they're an interesting sort of bug. I've repotted several times - every time they go away. But they eventually reproduce and come back into glory. They ARE an insect that likes to stick with the roots. They hang out with the fine feeders. (Maybe they are parasites munching on the roots or they are leeching stealing some kind of nutrient to coexist? The roots don't seem heavily damaged, but the magnitude of the infestation disturbs me.) They're white-ish specks where they hang out when contrasted with the soil/rocks. I have to disturb the rocks down to the fine feeder root level in order to agitate them to come out. At which time, they crawl around everywhere pretty fast. Not many though, just a few - not with the fiery passion of fire ants.....fortunately, but they know when they're being hunted down. Compared to ants, they're a different shape, smaller and seem relatively tame. If you lift the whole pot though when repotting, there are a bunch that just stay with the fine feeders. And I don't know what they're doing! They seem very resistant to insecticides, even systemic ones and I'm hesitant to use them again beacuse they seem to be worse for the plants than them. So I have been doing what you've been suggesting, which is watering less frequently. It's a sharp edge to walk though, being that serissas often panic when they're looking for water but dont find any.

rockm

Again, I don't really think it's the bugs. It's the overwatering. They come back because you're probably continuing to overwater and use soil that's too heavy.

Insects, by the way, are rarely the big problem. Insects attack weakened trees or live in conditions that suit them. In the case wihth fungal gnats and other stuff that's typically in bonsai soil that stays too wet, they have found an indeal environment. Such soil born insects usually consume rotting and rotted soil material and not roots. They are a symptom, in the vast majority of cases, not the primary problem.

AvengingAB

Well, thanks. I'll try to water less and see how things go.

Rockm:

I had another question I had posted somewhere on this forum, you seem to be knowledgeable in these areas and I was wondering if you could give me some input on it.

I have a dwarf powderpuff that seems to have fallen into some sort of live dormancy. I have had for a few months, and it had been doing well when I first got it. After it finished its flowering cycle, I chopped it down a bunch, and pruned to the roots to keep it balanced. And it was fairly happy with new growth shortly after. I had also repotted to expose part of the root / tap root, or whatever. It's the thick part of the root that doesn't have much of the finer roots and looks good on the surface. I had been dissatisfied that it hadn't flowered again, but this last month it seems to have stopped growing all together. The full size leaves stay on the tree and are a healthy green, however, the small leaves / buds do not grow in size. They merely....exist. Some of the youngest buds also periodically brown, get crispy, die, and fall off, but I don't think that is any cause for alarm. I don't know what the tree is doing or thinking, but it would seem that something is keeping it from growing.

I had thought of a few reasons, but none of which seem extreme enough to freeze growth except for soil pH - and I am told in other forums that that shouldn't cause this.

From my fertilization regime, my soil pH ends up being around 5.5. I use dynagrow 12-5-5 and 5-12-3 (forget the exact numbers) alternating between the two, and since my soil is very coarse, I just fertilize every time with my water using noncirculating hydroponics dilution concentrations. That may seem like a lot, and I guess it is, but most of it just falls through the pot and my other plants (especially the serissas) love it. But in fear of overfertilizing (which shouldn't cause dormancy....anyway), I've stopped fertilizing the plant for the time being with no reaction or growth. Also about pH, I found out that powderpuffs like slightly alkaline, but people seem to say they don't mind either slightly acidic or alkaline. Don't know what to believe. I just water whenever it starts to get dry, which lately has been maybe twice a week because there just aren't many leaves left on the plant, many of them are small leaves that just stay green BUT small, and the pot is shallow but large to encourage growth - which is definitley not happening! Temperature is about 90 degrees constant (indoors). Humidity is on the low side around 40-50% R.H., already supplemented with a ultrasonic humidifier Light, from a ridiculous horde of fluorescents (air cooled) is definitely enough for it to subsist and grow. No sign of fungi, insects of any sort, the few (20) existing leaves are healthy - some die from aging, get crispy, and just let go (humidity issue??), bark is healthy, so are roots. Has been like this for 5-6 weeks now. Tried pulling leaves and trimming branches to stimulate growth - nothing.

Any clue what is going on

I like the unique twin branch structure on this dwarf powderpuff and I dont want it to die. I'm open to any suggestions. thx.

rockm

Caliandra is not a temperate species. It does not experience a dormant period naturally. If it isn't growing it is probably due to some stress factor, too wet, too dry, not enough light, etc.

also agressive root pruning with some plants sends them into a period of shock. They sulk.

In the last few months your root pruned repotted and top pruned this plant, it's probably in shock. slow down, let it alone for a few months to get some strength back--which it may not, as indoor conditions are deplorable for even tropical bonsai--too dry not enought light. You are forced to keep the plant indoors, though, as winter conditions will kill it--although you don't say where you live (that information is critical and will help everyone here give better advice--fill out yoru profile). That means it may sulk until spring.

AvengingAB

Hi rockm,

Thanks for your quick response. I have experienced that shock you describe with the bougainvillea before. Of course the bougainvillea is more invincible of a plant. I thought it was dead for weeks and then BANG it starts putting out leaves like no tomorrow. It was a very big plant and I cut it down to less than 10% of what it was. That's a big risk but they're a dime a dozen here in Texas.

The powderpuff though was doing well after both root and branch pruning after letting it settle in. I thought it had already had its pouting period because it stopped growing after repotting for a two weeks, and then there was a period of fairly vigorous green growth of a few weeks (no flowering though) followed by a complete shutdown on growth until now. Ironically, I had been concerned that it hadn't been flowering at the time - disappointedly so even. Now I have an even bigger concern.

About indoor conditions, I understand indoors is not where plants like to be. Well, what I've been working on for my indoor bonsai is making my bonsai table into a semi-closed "outdoor" atmosphere that is tropical year round. It's already partially so, but I still haven't set up the panels to close up the table and the ventilation system that sucks air from the house, humidify it, and a fan that expels hot air from the lights on the "top shelf". The fans and humidification will be controlled by sensors to keep it the atmosphere stable. The lighting (an obscene number of tube and coil fluorescents height adjustable mounted on an overhead grid) is quite adequate for productive growth, though by far no match for full sun. I use fans to keep the hot air generated from burning the leaves - which it has before I installed fans. Maybe it is the humidity issue due to lights drying out air? It's true that over time (last few months) I've just kept adding more and more lights because my other plants respond favorably. Now it adds 40 dollars to my monthly electricity bill so I've stopped adding more lights haha. But if it's the dryness, why do none of my other bonsais respond to the low humidity by shutting down? Of all plants, my costa rican mint is probably the most finicky about wetness, and it is doing fine...well now it is because I found out that it likes being wet. Also several of the vendors that specialize in Bonsais around Austin, TX assure me that humidity, as long as it isn't bone desert dry, should not be a concern but rather a preference for the plants. One said to just keep fertilizing regularly, so at first I thought I wasn't giving enough fertilizer....but I think I'm on the border of overfertilization as it is.

Anyway, that doesn't help the situation right now though - right now what do you think I do with the tree? I know I'm looking for a definite answer, but I understand it is near impossible for you to give me a definitive diagnosis, especially since you can't inspect the plant. I'm located in Austin, TX 78727. It's going to start getting cold soon, so you're right, I can't stick it outside for long. So indoors, should I: stop fertilizing but water regularly as necessary and I guess just wait and see?

rockm

"The powderpuff though was doing well after both root and branch pruning after letting it settle in. I thought it had already had its pouting period because it stopped growing after repotting for a two weeks, and then there was a period of fairly vigorous green growth of a few weeks (no flowering though) followed by a complete shutdown on growth until now."

You are being far too agressive in treatment and expectation with this plant and could be onthe way to killing it. Leave it alone. Stop worrying about every little thing that you see, or expect it to do. Flowers, after you've probably pruned the buds off when you cut the tree back, reduced it's root system overwatered it and are keeping it indoors? That's a pretty tall order. Relax. If you don't you're gonna have a dead plant.

As for the indoor setup, nice idea. Isn't anywhere near optimum growing conditions for a high light, high humidity tropical plant. Outdoors all summer in 80-90 percent sun willdo wonders for a tropical plant, especially in Texas. For what it's worth, flourescents don't really get the job done. High output halogen or other expensive plant growth system are the way to go.

Indoor conditions aren't dry because of lighting. They're dry because of air conditioninig--which cool by drawing moisture out of the air in summer,,coils condense water, which air is circulated over. In winter, central heating is even drier. In order to raise humidity levels for plants, you have to enclose a space or room and install a humidifier. This can cause all sorts of problemsm with mold, water damage and other icky stuff.

Not really trying to discourage indoor growth, but am trying to point out that indoor bonsai is much much MUCH harder than simply growing them outdoors when you can and bringing them in for the shortest period possible. I'm also trying to point out you have to be realistic about what you're after. You cannot have a flowering, pucture perfect bonsai in tip top condition 24/7/365. It's not realistic, nor is it possible. You have to work with what the plant has at the given moment and work towards a specific goal period--which will come and go--forcing you to start over again...

AvengingAB

Hi Rockm, when I first started the indoor project, I hadn't know much about the higher end plant lighting systems, so I opted for high wattage fluorescents to start with. Now I want to run through one set of bulbs before I move onto something else, otherwise all of it would have been a waste of money. For the time being, my other plants are fostering enough growth for me to be satisfied - well except for the powderpuff. Doesn't high output halogen dissipate a lot of heat and require a far safety distance for plants? That's the unfortunate thing, my bonsai enclosure is sittig in my dining room area because right now, I live in an apartment with a balcony facing North - not much I can do in terms of an outdoor Bonsai patio or even a indoor garage setup. Well, if you know a high output lighting system that generates as little heat and as much light as 600 fluorescent equivalent watts of light or more, that would be perfect even with a heftier price tag. Anyway, I've already left the powderpuff alone for several weeks, but maybe it needs longer? hopefully it'll be alright!