Scale!!!!

JDubinski

I have a bad scale infection on two of my eugenias. I have used systemic, but how long will it take for them to go away completely? I gave them systemic about two weeks ago.

Any tips or ideas?

Thanks.

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susieq

What kind of systemic did you use? If you can get your hands on some cygon you will see improvement right away..... It is not available in some states though.

tachigi

When I get a scale problem I double team them. I use a systemic and dust the tree with a oil. This always solves the problem for the short term and the long term. If it really bugs you. You can always pick by hand

__________________
Tom

Shady Side Bonsai
Bonsai Vault
4MAAT

JDubinski

I have Di-Syston. Is that a good one? I have picked off most of them that I can see, but I keep seeing more. Thanks for the help.

Dav4

I've heard cygon is great, but it is not available in MA. Can anyone recommend any other systemics that 1) may be more readily available, and 2) are effective against scale in general, and, in my particular case, pine scale on Mugos and JBP. I've used horticultural oil before and had mixed results. Thanks,

Dave

Kansai

As it turns out I just a couple of days ago found a fukien tea with a pretty bad infection of black scale. I didn't have anything else available, so I used some soap I have--Shaklee "Basic H"--and misted it with a mild solution. To my delight it seemed to chase the 'crawlers' right away. The more mature casings are still littering the plant, but I think most of them were already dead.

I have some di-syston, but I heard that fukien tea is finicky about insecticides. I've had good results with it on other trees, but I've never tried it on conifers.

If the first treatment didn't get rid of them after a couple of weeks, it's probably time for another treatment.

DR

clwagner167

Well, if it not too bad, I've removed them by hand very carefully with the flat end of a toothpick.

If it was a bit worse I've used a Q-tip dipped in regular Isopropyl alcohol...you just carefully dab the scale with it. It is best to always start with the least toxic solution and work your way up from there?

But, one thing that you do have to think of is whether or not you are providing a good location for your trees? Trees can become compromised if conditions aren't optimum. Is the temp ok? How is the air circulation? And, are your trees getting good lighting and humidity? Even with the best of care, our trees can succumb to fungi or pests.

Usually their natural resistance will protect them against diseases and pests. Prevention is the best route to go. So, if your trees are compromised, you also have to look for the cause of the problem that way you don't have to keep dealing with it?

Just some thoughts,
Cheryl

Dav4

I live in an area of MA where there seems to be a fair amount of scale on surrounding trees...last year I found a Pinus strobus sapling in my yard absolutely covered with it. I've heard about the rubbing alcohol application, which works fine if you have a small potted tree... I have many larger pine pre-bonsai planted in my yard(some already have scale), as well as many ornamental pine cultivars. I'm interested in an effective systemic primarily because the horticultural oil hasn't worked. Dave

october

Advice from my 3 years of battling scale experience experience:



Unfortunately, I know alot about this subject. First you must know your enemy. There are different types of scale. White small rice looking juniper scale, oyster shell scale ( looks like tiny oysters the size of a pencil's eraser) and brown oval soft bodied scale. I have been battling scale for over 3 years and finally have one up on them.
Scale suck the juice from a tree until its dead. They have a piercing part of their mouth for this. As they age, they secrete a fluid. Each time they secrete, they build up a protective shell until they are almost immune to pesticides. Also, they lay their eggs underneath this protective shell. So even if you pull them off, the somewhat invisible eggs are left behind.
First isolate the afflicted tree/trees. If you use the dunking the pot watering method, do not put another tree in the same water. Also, do not mist that tree where the mist will go onto another tree. Scale will attack your whole collection, starting with fruiting trees. Scale eggs can be spread through water, wind and ants carry the eggs as well.
My advice, from my experience is, first pick off all the scale you see. Then use a horticultural oil. Read the directions. You will probably have to use the maximum amount for the tree species. Then check the tree in 3 weeks and pick off anymore scale, then spray again. Then for the next 3 months, spray about once a month to once every month and a half. You can substitute one of the months spraying with a systemic, instead of the oil. However, you may notice that after a couple of months the scale may be almost gone. The oil smoothers the insects so thay can't move or breath.
Keep in mind that you will have to pick even the dead scale off the tree. The difference between live and dead is that the dead ones just flake off, the live ones smear and bleed. Scale can be one of the toughest insects to irradicate, good luck.

October ( Rob )