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18-Apr-2005
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#21 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
 
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Step 8: The Finished Product
Disclaimer and Gratuitous Pictures of the finished product...
Please wait for at least a month before trying something similar on your tree. I'll let you know if it lives. You can see in the pictures attached to this post that the leaves of this Acer are already a bit further along than I would have wanted. Ideally the whole process should have taken place about a month ago, after the buds have started to swell, but before they really broke open. I will keep my fingers crossed and will pray to an apropriate deity... And last but not least, all reactions, citicisms, comments, remarks and of course questions are very welcome. node
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Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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Root Rot? |
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18-Apr-2005
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#22 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Hi Node,
Firstly, thanks for taking the time to document this with photographs as you have done. The soil composition looks a great deal better than before and should also benefit the tree considerably with the increased drainage and root aeration. My experience so far with Japanese maples is that they tell you very early on if they are unhappy. Keep an eye on the foliage for any signs of limpness. The leaves should open up and be fairly rigid, like the fully extended fingers on your hand. If they start drooping, there is a good chance that the tree is thirsty. With both my Kiyohime and Sango Kaku varieties, this is how I know its time to give them a drink. Within a few hours of being watered, the leaves return to their full vigour. Water the new soil mix until water pours from the bottom of the pot, and do not water again until the leaves start losing their rigidity. They are a very thirsty tree, and at first I was surprised on how much and how often I was watering mine. I wouldn't recommend fertilizing the tree just yet, as this quite possibly will stress the tree further. Leave it for about 4-6 weeks to allow full recovery. As you quite rightly said, this operation should have been performed before the buds broke, but sometimes an emergency repot is just what the doctor ordered. In this case, I think leaving the tree as it was in the old soil, would have added to the problem. I like the rotted section on this tree and will quite possibly be the best feature of it in a couple of years time. Good luck, and keep an eye on those leaves. Kindest regards, Aaron |
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18-Apr-2005
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#23 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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thx for the feedback
A, good point, fertilization needs to wait for at least one month. Then I plan on using a mixture of bonemeal and bloodmeal. I will post followup's to show how the tree is faring in a week's - month's time.
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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25-Apr-2005
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#24 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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thank you very much this will help me next time i have to do it unfortunatly my serrisas both kicked the bucket now gotta find a tree that isn't so dang temerpental as my ones i'm starting from sed to see if i can get them acclimatized to colder weather haven't even sprouted yet but if they don't like colder weather may look for new homes for them lol
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it's better to laugh at life than have life laugh at you sherry |
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25-Apr-2005
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#25 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Hi Slordaz,
Many people find the Serissa to be a temperamental tree, myself included. Temperature is definitely an issue with it, and it is recommended that the minimum temperature it is exposed to should not drop below 12c/54f. It must be kept indoors during winter, and even protected from cold air, so one must take care to site it in a window that's not going to be open for long periods. I think this is what happened to mine, and it wasn't until I read about the temperature requirements that I discovered this. Everything else on the tree was fine. The soil was well draining, it wasn't overly watered, no signs of fungal infections. However, it sat on my bedroom window sill, in which I have the windows open nearly 24/7 - and it died in the winter. I may be putting 2 & 2 together here and coming up with 5, but to me, this is the only explanation I can come up with as to why it died. They are a tropical tree/shrub and its recommended temperature zone is USDA 9b-10. If you've not got one, I'd suggest a Chinese elm, as they are much less fickle than the Serissa. BTW Node, how is the maple holding up? I'd be interested to know how it is doing. All the best, Aaron |
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28-Apr-2005
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#26 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Removing Root Rot from an Acer Palmatum: Followup
After a week, a short followup...
Not much to tell actually... The maple looks like it survived the torture session a last week and appears to be doing fine. As I don't have X-ray Vision I can't really tell you what is going on underground, but judging from the fact that it seems to be thriving vigorously it can’t be doing too badly there either so far. Luckily the weather was a bit better lately, we actually got some sun and the temps went up to almost 22ºC/75ºF but still dropping to about 8ºC/46ºF at night. But even more importantly, it stayed mostly dry. I watered the maple after repotting, but not since. More Pictures! Enjoy  node Attached: Picture 1: Close-up 1 of damaged trunk section @ T-1 week. Picture 2: Close-up 2 of damaged trunk section @ T-1 week. Picture 3: Close-up of Leaf development @ T-1 week. (Branch in Bottom Left Corner of Full Shot) Picture 4: Full Shot of maple in context @ T-1 week.
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Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell Last edited by node : 28-Apr-2005 at 05:03 AM. |
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28-Apr-2005
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#27 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Hi Node,
Good to hear and see that the tree is doing well after its repot. I really like the exposed/bleached wood and think this is what you should style the tree around, as its made it look older beyond its years considerably and is a very unique feature. All the best, Aaron |
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6-May-2005
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#28 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Now at two weeks, still thriving.
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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6-May-2005
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#29 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Hi Node,
The tree is certainly appreciating its new soil by the looks of it. The growth is certainly very healthy. I was just looking back at the older pictures, particularly the ones of the treated dead root. Although I think it is a very nice feature, it does look somewhat lonely. Are you planning on performing some thread grafts with seedlings to create some additional nebari? Here's a very good link with some information on the technique if you haven't performed it before. Thread Grafting Nebari All the best, Aaron |
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7-May-2005
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#30 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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I principally agree with you on this, also the angle of the roots compared to the angle of the split in the trunk does not really match up that ideally. I did originally buy this plant because of the way the trunk splits into two more or less equal parts, figuring that might make a very nice trunk.
The jin is nice, but as you say, quite unbalanced now. I read this article once about drilling holes and grafting in new roots... Maybe an idea, but more of a long-term project I guess. And I want a bit more practice with grafting before I try something like that. I have to figure out where I want to trunk cut it too... Or probably I will end up air-layering it. Maples are supposed handle air-layering quite well, as far as I could find out. After the repotting session however, I'm not sure I should be doing anything else this drastic this year. Also I kind of have this rule where a plant has to survive at least for one year in my care before I start cutting it up... I really should get some practice in before I do this tree though... Maybe I should pick up another cheap one, just to try my hand in airlayering a maple once... I'm trying to do it to two beeches at the moment, having little luck until now. Started airlayering them last summer. It did not take however, and both of them simply scarred over. Trying it again this year, with an added wire tourinquet. Beeches are supposed to be difficult though, I read. And my own experience confirms it. Wisteria roots very easy. Cut up a 4 foot piece of Wisteria Vine this year. Cut it into 8" pieces, a light dusting of rooting agent, and back into full soil. And they all took. Anyway, going a bit OT here... I love maples, but they're not cheap plants, so I kinda want to keep them alive and well if in anyway possible. I do want to know what you and the others think I could/should do to optimize my chance of actually ending up with something decent in the way of a maple bonsai. Attached: I've attached some earlier images to show the tree's branch-structure.
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Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell Last edited by node : 7-May-2005 at 07:23 AM. |
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