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18-Apr-2005
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#11 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
 
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Step 2b: Combing out the Root system - @20min
Here we are already a bit further along.
We are actually able to get some of the heavy wet muck out between the roots, and looking at the combed out soil on the ground I am happy to see hardly any bits and pieces of torn off root. Notice also the way the roots are now hanging down. Instead of a compact rootsystem, with lots of ramification at the base of the trunk, we have a rather stringy mess to deal with. I am trying to get a feel of the strength it requires to tear a small root. When combing out, I try to uses less strength than that. Also don't stricktly follow the manual in this. Don't just go round and round, get a feel for how the roots are wrapped around eachother. Pry a bit here, pry a bit there, and suddenly you are able to un-knot another bit of the rootsystem. Attached: Images of Root system 20min into the process
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Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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18-Apr-2005
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#12 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 2b: continued
Now that we have removed part of the soil, we already have a better view of the extent of the damage.
Not half as bad as I had feared... Attached: Closeup images of damaged areas
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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18-Apr-2005
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#13 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 3: Washing the Root System
We have removed all the soil we can possibly remove now with our tools, we would however like to remove the rest of the soil clinging to the roots as well.
so now we are going to take a shower together with our plant. (cold) Ah, much better, now we can actually see what we are doing. With the soil removed, the color of the roots tells us which areas are damaged and which areas are healthy. Attached: Images after washing the roots. Images of Damaged Areas
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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18-Apr-2005
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#14 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 4: Cutting away the Damaged Areas
The whole process has taken about 45min up to now.
Something I have forgot to mention is that from the point the plant was removed from its pot I've misted the rootsystem every 10min. We don't want all the fine roots to dry out while they are exposed to the air. Time to take a deep breath, get your very sharp and clean shears out, and start cutting. Since most of the root system looks healthy I've decided to cut away the least possible amount of damaged wood I can get away with and try to leave some of the stumps as future Jin. From the pictures you can also clearly see that one of the effects of rootrot is that the bark lets loose from the wood. The bark is the first part to rot away. The wood underneath may still be mostly unrotted and healthy. This also determines my next step. I first remove all the dead bark from affected roots. The bark feels wet and very soft to the touch, basically it has already composted. With the wood underneath now exposed I start cutting. Note that the pice that was cut away had very little in the way of healthy roots attached to it. I'm pleased at this, as this means I have cut away damaged tissue only, without damaging healthy tissue. Attached: Picture 1: First cut Picture 2: Damaged part of Rootsystem that was removed Picture 3: Leftover stump
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Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell Last edited by node : 18-Apr-2005 at 10:12 AM. |
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18-Apr-2005
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#15 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 4: continued
Cutting the next bit...
Here you can see even more clearly, that although the main root that was cut was more than 1cm thick, there was nothing in the way of a real root system attached to it. Attached: Picture 1/2 : 2nd Damaged area Pitcture 3: Surface of Cut (Not the nicest) Picture 4: Damaged tissues that was removed
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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18-Apr-2005
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#16 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 4: continued
the last bit...
Attached: Images of removing another bit of dead tissue.
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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18-Apr-2005
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#17 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 5: Cleaning up the edges
All the dead tissues has now been cut away, but there is still a bit of rotted bark left on the stumps we didn't remove, as well as on the trunk itself.
I don't really want the rot to start spreading outwards from those points again, so I'm going to take a sharp clean knife and try and cut of more of the rotting bark away. Attached: Images of the process
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell Last edited by node : 18-Apr-2005 at 09:51 AM. |
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18-Apr-2005
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#18 |
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Learning the Art
 Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Ft.Myers FL but currently Jacksonville FL
Country: United States
USDA Zone: 9
Posts: 541
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You're almost done putting all of them on! Just wanted to say great job in doing this and great job with the step by step display etc. This thread will probably be used later on as something to look back on for other's thoughts about rootrot and what to do, great job!
-Evan
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18-Apr-2005
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#19 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 6: Treating the dead wood with Lime-Sulfur
I never really got a reply on this, but my guess is that this won't hurt the tree any further.
I now treat the dead wood with concentrated Jin-oil to hopefully stop the rotting process. Ask me again in a month if the tree still lives... To apply the Lime-Sulfur I use a pretty basic flat paintbrush, incidentally the same one I missused earlier to comb out the roots. Attached: Picture 1/2 : Images of the affected areas with Lime-Sulfur applied. Picture 3: Image of same area 5 min later.
__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell |
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18-Apr-2005
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#20 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Step 7: Repotting the tree in New Soil
We have tormented the tree as much as we are going to in this session, so let's put it back into the earth again where it belongs.
The pot: I'm reusing the plastic 20L pot from before. Naturally is has been washed out and completely cleaned. The soil: 3 Layers. First Layer. 7cm (3") of Fired Clay Hydroculture Granulate. This simply to improve the drainage of the pot. The Second layer is 5cm (2") of pure Akadama. The third layer is 2/3 Akadama 1/3 Peat with a handfull or two of Kanuma thrown in to lower the PH by just a tidbit. The Repotting itself: I don't know who to credit with this but a good tip for repotting in deeper containers (This applies to Cascades mainly) is: Hold the tree over the empty pot, at the desired position the tree is supposed to end up in, let the roots hang down, and gradually fill the pot up with earth. Don't put the tree in the pot with the roots all bunched up in the bottom and fill all the soil on top of it. Try to have the roots spread out within the soil. Enough said, more pictures... Attached: Picture 1: Pot with Hydroculture Granulate at the bottom Picture 2: Pot with Akadama Layer inside Picture 3: Akadama/Peat Soil Mix Picture 4: Picture of half-covered tree Picture 5: closeup of half-covered tree Picture 6: the repotted tree
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Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell Last edited by node : 18-Apr-2005 at 09:52 AM. |
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