Ficus Problem

Jay

Ok, this is not affecting my bonsai…yet…. I will be bringing a few bonsai into our sunroom in a few days/weeks and want to clear up this problem on a full size Ficus. I do see scales on the tree, in addition there are numerous leaves turning black. The tree is putting out new growth. There is also a very sticky feel to the leaves as well as to the chair arm under the tree and when I returned home from the summer the floor had a rather blackish ring under the tree canopy. Any thoughts as to the causes and treatment, as I said I do see scales?

Thanks
Jay

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A Bonsai student living with his trees at N 44.37 W 77.49...
Think before you act... then think again... no good comes from rushing

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Bart Thomas(deceased)

Hi, Jay.

Get a warm day, take your tree outside and give it a good hosing off (blast it!).

The leaves probably are coated with honeydew, which comes from aphids, scale, etc, all of which should blast off with water. Sure, you'll lose some leaves, but they'll come back quickly.

For a log-term cure, I find that I have to use an annual addition of a systemic insecticide to the soil. Even if you do get rid of all the scale and other vermin, ants wil bring new ones to farm your trees. The systemic will take care of this.

Many will object to this, proposing weekly sprays with a soap solution (Carl Rosner's is excellent -I searched for it but couldn't find it here. Try PM to clrosner), but then you have to be sure to do it religiously until ALL stages of the insect life cycle have been "terminated".

Good luck.

Bart

Jay

Thanks Bart, should have remembered Carl's receipe. Will get on it as soon as possible. As for outside, well this isn't NJ..... Temperatures here are getting downthere already. I have to adjust to many things since the move, the short growing season is one of the hardest....

Say hello to everyone at Great Swamp for me

Jay

__________________
A Bonsai student living with his trees at N 44.37 W 77.49...
Think before you act... then think again... no good comes from rushing

Bart Thomas(deceased)

This weekend's warm spell ought to be okay. Even there in the frozen north!

If that fails, put a washcloth over the drain, and wash it off in the shower. The tree will love that from time to time during the winter months!

RonMartin(deceased)

The honeydew comes off easily with a solution of water and liquid dishwashing soap. I usually use Polmolive. (about a table spoon per quart of water)
Spray this on the affective leaves (give them a good soaking) then let it stand for a couple of seconds.Then spay the plant with plain water.
The soapy water helps break down the honeydew allowing the spray of water to work. No need to blast it with water just a spray will do it.
A big point is that you want the soapy solution to stay on the leaves as long as you can but still rinse it off before the soap dries.
If you are worried about getting soap in your soil you can always cover the pot with a bit of plastic. A little bit of soap wont hurt the plant but why take a chance.
Bart is right. A systemic is just about the only thing that will control bugs indoors.
Carl's concoction will work. So will things like Safer Soap. The problem with them is that they are a contact killer. Miss spraying one bug and guess what. They are back in short order.
In order to control most bugs you need something that will last at least 2 generations of the bug. One generation for the adults and one for the eggs. (A good number of poisons will not kill the eggs. ) Just about the only thing with that staying power is a systemic.

steez

I used Bayer systemic for trees and shrubs on some azaleas. I was a bit apprehensive about treating tropicals. also I wondered about the dose. The amout you use is according to trunk size and height of tree. 1 inch trunks get about a teaspoon per gallon from what I gathered. How safe or harmful is systemic when too much is applied?

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Steve

Bart Thomas(deceased)

The systemic pesticide I use is Bonide Systemic Houseplant Insect Control. Its active ingredient is disulfoton, an organophosphate.

The label says to use 2 rounded teaspoonsful per 6 inch pot. Mix into soil. Then water.

I find the conversion of these instructions from flower pots to bonsai pots something less than intuitive. For me, this translates into about a tablespoon and a half for a 16 inch pot, or an even dusting of the soil surface, which I then scratch into the upper level of soil.

It is my opinion that the scratching into the soil and immediate watering, among other things, minimizes the risk that things (people, pets, etc.) will come in contact with this nasty stuff.

THIS IS A POISON ! TREAT IT WITH RESPECT!

So far, I have only found it necessary to use this on ficus. Bougies, Texas Ebony, and jaboticaba have done fine without it (or I just can't see the critters )

RonMartin(deceased)

My main weapon in attacking most bugs above the soil line is Orthanex. It is made by Ortho and not hard to find. Home Depo and Lowes carry it. K-Mart and Wallmart have it when their garden center isn't full of Christmas stuff.)
It is a liquid and sprays on the foliage etc. Never had any kind of problem using the stuff on any tree. Maples included.
It stinks till it dries so its better to spray outside. Once dry it is safe to the touch. Soaks into the plant pretty rapidly and will do its job for about 6 weeks.
Mix the stuff according to manufacturers instructions. Don't dilute it to half strength like some do. Half strength will only get the bugs drunk and they will party like crazy. Use full strength . Remember you are not trying to bonsai the bugs.
As with all poisons read the label and use it as intended.

breefe

Stupid walmart...I wanted to go and grab a crappy ficus for a family member. But no, its full of fake trees and wreathes..ugh...

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