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#21 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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I stopped using as shovel as collecting gear a while ago. I use a saw, hand trowel, bypass cutters and pry bar to collect even big tree --over 4" in diameter.
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#22 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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Agree with Al
Location of the dig and location your bonsai bench is key to the treatment of a tree post dig. The California Valley has about 0% humidity and would be instant death to a tree relocated from the nearby mountains unless the tree is shaded. It wouldn't be a big deal if the tree stayed in the same zone.
As to balancing the foliage and roots. Since you almost always cut short a number of roots when digging out the tree I see no problem with cutting back some of the longer branches at the digging site. How on earth would the thing fit in the back of my Subaru otherwise? I have found the most important thing I can do to up the survival % of collected trees is to keep the roots of the collected tree wet. I immerse the rootball in a tub of water for the drive home. It seems to have made a difference. Carmen |
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#23 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Feb-2007
Location: Adelaide Hills
Country: Ausralia
Posts: 66
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My husband would call it a fencing bar. I am thinking it would be St Cuthbert's Staff.
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#24 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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I am learning a lot from these discussions but need some help with a project I would like to undertake. I have many wild, large wisteria in my area and have been given permission to colloect then. It is now the last of March in zone 7/8 and the flowers are now blumming. When will be the best time to remove them? and what would be the best technique and how far should I cut the main stem. How large should the root ball need to be. Any help and insights will be welcomed.
Mike Martin |
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#26 |
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Professional Amateur
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Wow, a resurrection. Um, in our area I find it best to get as much of the "mountain" soil as possible off of the roots after collection. I don't hose wash pines or junipers, but I do place in water and attempt to remove as much soil as possible. In our hot climate bringing mountain trees like RMj and Ponderosa pine down into the heat with all of that organic duff on roots leads to anoxia and rot. Note, I did not say wash with a hose to the bare root, we leave the material coating the roots, but disentangle the roots and the large clumps of organic junk and then plant them carefully in to a rapidly draining but moisture retentive mixture.
Perhaps the most critical step is to secure the tree firmly in the container (box, tub, pot, whatever) so that the tree cannot move. Too many trees die because the can move around in the container and break off the new roots. One of the reasons why I really like to put collected pines and junipers into either a box or a ceramic (clay) pot- provides the rigidity needed to secure the tree appropriately. We fertilize very lightly after the tree shows signs of growth. These trees have lived in "nutritionally challenged" locations for a long time and can get by quite well, in my climate, with little external nourishment until they start to grow. Others do it differently, that is fine with me. John
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"Wiring is simple; However, it is not easy to do it right" Boon Last edited by Vonsgardens : 28-Mar-2008 at 02:14 PM. |
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