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Collected Hawthorn

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Old 2-Dec-2006   #1
jbhayman
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Collected Hawthorn

Hey,

Dug out this hawthorn about 2 months ago and it is starting to come back into action now and it is starting to put on some good growth,

JUST would like to know peoples opinions and weather I should carve the stumps left over at the sides and back and make a feature of them, or think about removing them completely. Not sure about the secondary branch 1/3 of the way up the tree that is vertical.

The lemon is for a comparison of size !! Doesnt suggest anything about the tree though !!!!

Jbhayman
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File Type: jpg IMG_0003.jpg (46.8 KB, 135 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0001.jpg (36.6 KB, 287 views)

Last edited by jbhayman : 2-Dec-2006 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 2-Dec-2006   #2
jbhayman
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Some more views. the first pic here is of the stups at the rear of the tree.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0005.jpg (37.4 KB, 130 views)
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Old 3-Dec-2006   #3
mike108
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i think you should graft it id love to see it with more branches i love it
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Old 3-Dec-2006   #4
jbhayman
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why graft it? would you like to see pink flowers??....wouldn't that destroy the look of it with grafting marks near the trunk??

Jbhayman

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i think you should graft it id love to see it with more branches i love it
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Old 3-Dec-2006   #5
Ashbarns9999
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I would get rid of the back stumps because I see no merit in carving or jins on that Hawthorn. I say that because I feel the front ( with the lemon ) is the way to proceed. Taper would be my objective with plenty of fert. This is a dream trunk to have, nice movement and great bark texture. Can you give pics. of the nebari?

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Old 3-Dec-2006   #6
jbhayman
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These are some images from the front and side of the nebari...I could not get to the back as the pot is in the way. There is a little bit more nebai under the soil, butr it is hard to get a pic of it. The white stone is for contrast. by the way Ashbarns9999 where are you in Victoria and d you belong to any clubs?

JBhayman

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Originally Posted by Ashbarns9999
I would get rid of the back stumps because I see no merit in carving or jins on that Hawthorn. I say that because I feel the front ( with the lemon ) is the way to proceed. Taper would be my objective with plenty of fert. This is a dream trunk to have, nice movement and great bark texture. Can you give pics. of the nebari?

Regards Ash
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File Type: jpg IMG_3.jpg (46.9 KB, 117 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4.jpg (48.5 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5.jpg (48.2 KB, 107 views)

Last edited by jbhayman : 3-Dec-2006 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 3-Dec-2006   #7
ElGringo
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I was reading about hawthorns the other day. You say you want to make a feature from removing the stumps? Why not try 'uro'. If you're not familiar, it's a technique where you completly remove the stump, and hollow out the trunk where it was removed, creating a circular hole. You paint this with lime sulphur mixed with ink, as you don't want the uro to stand out too much.

If you look at deciduous trees in the wild, when a branch rots away it rarely leaves a jin,as we see in conifers, but rather leaves a hole in the trunk which often doesn't heal over if the branch was especially large. Here is a link to a UK based website which can explain the technique:

http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATUro.htm
It looks especially good on 'rugged' trees such as hawthorn or oak.
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Old 3-Dec-2006   #8
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if you dont graft to form any type of branch structure your talking 5-10 years!
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Old 3-Dec-2006   #9
jbhayman
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time

Good things take time padwan...

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if you dont graft to form any type of branch structure your talking 5-10 years!
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Old 3-Dec-2006   #10
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I mentioned to you in chat that I liked this tree. I'd get rid of the back branches (the thick trunk-looking ones). I think the branches you have are in a pretty good location. You'll need to use sacrifice branches to really get the branches thick. Select the branches you want to keep and cut off everything else you don't need.

As for the 5-10yr time frame, I'm getting more and more comfortable thinking about trees in that timeframe. I think most good trees from such raw stock need that long.


Have fun with this one,
wf
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