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thread grafting

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Old 5-Mar-2002   #1
seeker
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thread grafting

hello,
I would like to ask Doc ,or anyone else who can help, about
some thread grafting on my sweet chestnut. the tree ,I think
is two or three years old, was grown from seed, not intended
as a bonsai, it is in a ten inch container[from seed] and is
twenty five inches tall with a one and one eighth inch trunk.
I would like to prune cuttings from the top of the tree,
then graft them lower down the trunk. Advice on thread grafting * do i have to cut back the bark on the cutting before inserting through the trunk * simple question, but not one
covered in my books. thanks .

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Old 6-Mar-2002   #2
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Re: thread grafting

It will help to peel a little bit of bark on the side that will be in contact with the trunks cambium layer. You should not do it all the way round. You also only need to do it on the exiting branch side. It may be a little late to thread graft now if the buds have opened. You don't want to have to drill a hole large enough to pass opening buds through. I do maples the first week of Feb. The buds are real tight and will pass through the holes reall easy.


You should be able to inarch, cleft, and approach graft now.

Happy grafting, Bonsaial
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Old 6-Mar-2002   #3
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Re: thread grafting

There is a nicely illustrated article on Colin Lewis's website. You can reach it from the link

http://www.memobug.com/treebay/cgi-...ry=thread+graft

Regards,

Matt
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Old 11-Mar-2002   #4
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Re: thread grafting

Thanks for the info gentlemen , the link to colin lewis was clever stuff, I am new to computers as well as bonsai!!.
I realise that a thread graft would be unsuitable for the chestnut, so i will use veneer grafts for my purpose. If I
had not asked, I would not have found out. I would urge
any apprentice out there, to make use of this site for
information, I am learning loads of stuff by reading
posted questions !!! love and peace, Rick.
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Old 12-Mar-2002   #5
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Re: thread grafting

I think thread grafts can be used with most any kind of tree. Just let a shoot grow out until it can be bent back 'round to the place it's needed. In the extreme, I've even used thread grafts on a Japanese White Pine that had lost a branch to a fall.

After drilling a 3/16 hole through the trunk which emerged on the edge of the living tissue at the wound's callus, I cut a short section of soda straw and slit it down one end. Next, I put this over the bud and needle cluster, cinch it down a bit and pushed it through the hole, then removed the soda straw and the bud and needles springs back out

Pines can be slow but it knit very well, so I don't see how a thread graft would be inappropriate for any tree, except perhaps a palm.
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Old 13-Mar-2002   #6
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Re: thread grafting

O.k. Matt , you have convinced me. nothing is impossible,
everything is probable. I am a patient person,so I can wait
til next year to try this graft on this tree. All my trees are in training and it looks like they will be for several years yet.
I get strong urges to purchase finished bonsai,( if there is such
a thing ! ) but it dont seem right to me at this time. surely
until a person can master some basic methods do they have a right to own some one elses time, patience and skill ?
I bet I just opened up a can of worms then ! any takers ?

as for the straw on pine idea, clever, is there a Japanese
or chinese term for this? I thought fishermen were the most
inventive hobbyists! love and peace rick.
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Old 11-Jun-2002   #7
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Re: thread grafting

Treebay: That is a GREAT idea about the soda straw and pine grafting. I've been veneer grafting black pine with scions for some time but never tried thread grafting because I couldn't figure out how to get the needles and bud through the hole. The likelihood of success, especially in grafting on thick branches and trunks of pine, should be appreciably higher with thread grafting. Thanks
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Old 12-Jun-2002   #8
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Re: thread grafting

When I first tried thread grafting pine, I wasn't sure how it might work either. It will probably be helpful for you to use the youngest branches possible, remove any corkiness by scraping or lightly sanding the edge of one side of the bud to get down close enough to the cambium that it appears green, clean the edges of the drill hole with a very sharp knife, and once you have the bud through the hole, use a wedge to force the scion tightly against one side of the hole. Cover the entry and exit wounds with some sealant.

Come back in about six months and see how it's doing. (Definitely don't separate it too soon until it's obvious from the size of the branch entering and exiting the drill hole that it has grown.

Once it is starting to bulge at the exit site, I go back in and wet the area down and then scrub the edges of the wound a little to make sure it is knitting well, because bits of cork can get in your way at the site of the graft.

Regards,

Matt
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