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Photographing Bonsai

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Old 6-Apr-2007   #1
mike_p
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Photographing Bonsai

For several years I've been working with multiple flash for bonsai photography. Mostly I use the black photo background and 3 slave flashes triggered by the on camera flash. These consisted of 2 at bonsai level with diffusers, and one at center and above with a bounce attachment.

I added to this yesterday with 2 new ac powered slave units that are above and to each side. In addition to that, I've made a sort of 'lightbox" using white window shades on each side of the photo background. They are attached to the overhead, and are pulled down when needed. The first image will show the setup. I now have 5 flashes triggered by the on camera flash. The white sides reflect and diffuse the light.

The second image is a dwarf escallonia I picked off the bench for the first try with the new setup. The camera was tripod mounted and set to aperature priority. The camera is also set for no pre-flash, which would trigger the slaves prematurely. I shot 3 at f9, f11, and f13. The f13 worked pretty well.

I'm pretty happy with the result being as it's the first try.

Comments?

Mike
Attached Images
File Type: jpg z_litebox.jpg (54.5 KB, 149 views)
File Type: jpg z_escallonia.jpg (68.6 KB, 164 views)
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Learning the art of bonsai may be more like water wearing away a stone, or climbing a mountain where the peak is always shrouded in fog and just out of reach.
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Old 6-Apr-2007   #2
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That setup really brings up the detail Mike, nice tree by the way.

Will you be able to tone down the "glare off the leaves, or does the glossy surface make it one of those deal with it prospects. Is this a hobby, you seem pretty well versed in photography? I understand most of what you did because my uncle was a pro, and i worked with him on occasion.
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Old 6-Apr-2007   #3
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I'd be tempted to move one of the above-front-and-to-the-side flashes to below the bonsai and behind it a little. You'd probably have to diffuse it or move the flash further away but it'd add just a little more detail to the lower part of the tree and it'd open up the canopy a little.

My studio lighting just arrived so I plan on experimenting a little with this myself. Thanks for reminding me I need to do this.

wf
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Old 6-Apr-2007   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaynef
I'd be tempted to move one of the above-front-and-to-the-side flashes to below the bonsai and behind it a little. You'd probably have to diffuse it or move the flash further away but it'd add just a little more detail to the lower part of the tree and it'd open up the canopy a little.

My studio lighting just arrived so I plan on experimenting a little with this myself. Thanks for reminding me I need to do this.

wf


You can bet that I'll be experimenting with different setups. I may buy 2 more of the ac strobes, as they are only 50 bucks apiece. There are also diffusers available for them which may be useful.
I do believe the cheapest lighting improvment was the addition of the white pull down shades on each sice of the backdrop. The really do improve the light distribution.

Mike
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Learning the mechanics of bonsai is a matter of rote. Over and over again the processes are practiced until the hands and eyes know the moves.
Learning the art of bonsai may be more like water wearing away a stone, or climbing a mountain where the peak is always shrouded in fog and just out of reach.
Persist, and someday you may see the peak in sunshine. You may pick up the stone and it's a thing of beauty.

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Old 6-Apr-2007   #5
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G'day Mike...

"... a dwarf escallonia I picked off the bench..."

Must be nice to just "...pick off the bench..." a tree like that!

By the way...what is the distance between the subject and the backdrop?

Pat
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Old 7-Apr-2007   #6
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Pat, I think the tree was about a foot from the backdrop. Something like that.

Mike
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Learning the mechanics of bonsai is a matter of rote. Over and over again the processes are practiced until the hands and eyes know the moves.
Learning the art of bonsai may be more like water wearing away a stone, or climbing a mountain where the peak is always shrouded in fog and just out of reach.
Persist, and someday you may see the peak in sunshine. You may pick up the stone and it's a thing of beauty.

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Old 7-Apr-2007   #7
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Close enough...thanks Mike

Pat
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BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain.
THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life.

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Old 7-Apr-2007   #8
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White posterboard works wonders for bouncing light, if you want more specular light (more harsh, with crisper shadows, say to bring out more detail in carving work) you can use posterboard or cardboard spray painted silver(some foilks use those flip out windsheild sun reflectors for cars), or for warmer tones you can use gold (used in potraiture quite a bit).

You can also use a medium grey (what photogs call 18% grey) for a backdrop,...this way when you want black all you have to do is move it far enough back that no light from the setup hits it. When you want white move it in closer and use one light soley on the backdrop. What you are in effect doing is under/overexposing respectively.
The trick to this you have to meter first then save those settings, and shoot as if the grey were going to show as grey, this way the tree is still exposed correctly.

Also one thing that will help with reflections on leaves is a polarizing filter, it cuts reflections by on ly allowing direct light waves through,...this also gives better color as there is no "light dilution".
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Old 8-Apr-2007   #9
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Just a brief comment.I have never uploaded a photo to the web,that wasn't taken with a digital camera.I have never used a digital camera,that doesn't have an autoflash,so it's entirely unneeded.Furthrermore,let me say,that I believe bonsai are best photographed outdoors in natural light.But that's just my


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Old 8-Apr-2007   #10
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Even under natural light conditions you can reduce the harshness of the deep shadows by using a reflector, adding some detail to the parts that might be obscured by shadow.

Also just like to say (again) that besides a decent camera, the next most important peice of equipment is a decent tripod, but the MOST important tool that you have when shooting photos is the tool that sits about 3 inches behind the veiwfinder.
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