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#11 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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I would like to see a close up of the base before I pass judgement as to what I think about the tree. It very well may be an excellent subject but because of the way the branches are thin, long and lacking anything other than needles, and those only at the ends, it is going to take some time and care to turn into a bonsai. But--this all depends on the base of the tree, this will make it or break it. I also tend to think there was something about this tree that attracted the buyer more than a bunch of branches. I encourage intuition.
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The only finished bonsai is a dead one; me 1992 MABA Des Moines Iowa |
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#12 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Dec-2006
Location: Knoxville/Harriman, TN
Country: US
Posts: 6
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Well, now that it's in a new pot, and hopefully not going to die (found a couple great big clumps of mold and spread them back around), I could actually get at the trunk with the camera.
Don't know if this specific plant has much potential as a bonsai, to be honest. I said it was an awesome specimen because it's so... unique. The short-ish, twisty needles, the crazy branches it's got going on, the fact that it would be sweating, if trees could sweat, during the coldest of our coldnesses, but doesn't mind the hotness of our warm times. But if he doesn't survive (though I hope he does, because I like him) then I can get another one, and hopefully they'll have more to choose from. |
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#13 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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Well koku, if it makes you feel better, I'm sure that you haven't done anything to that pine that hasn't been done before to 100,000 trees by 100,000 people.
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#14 |
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tree love
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Not so sure about that mass of branches. You could try tying them together, in time they will bind, forming what appears to be a single main trunk. This way some of the smaller ones could be bent away from the main trunk, and formed into branches where ever you want along the main trunk.
However, I imagine that the tree has been stressed by replanting now, so leave it for now to recover before you begin styling. You should really leave it o grow unhindered in the ground for a few years, then come back and see what you're dealing with. As for the symbiotic fungus, I've seen it on my conifers too, it helps them sequester nutrients (mostly Nitrogen I think) from the soil. Legumes such as peas and beans have similar (albiet, bacterial) symbiotes, which is why they can grow so fast. Perhaps using pond or rain water to wash soil from roots would be less harmful to the symbiote than chloroinated tapwater. But nobody start a thread about it please ![]()
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Richard Last edited by ElGringo : 21-Dec-2006 at 07:25 PM. Reason: spelling |
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#15 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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[QUOTE=ElGringo]Not so sure about that mass of branches. You could try tying them together, in time they will bind, forming what appears to be a single main trunk. This way some of the smaller ones could be bent away from the main trunk, and formed into branches where ever you want along the main trunk.
Interesting statement, i wonder if you could explain the process further? Ash
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Better to procrastinate than lose sight of the objective by rash deeds. http://bonsaivaultforum.freeforums.org |
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#16 | |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Quote:
I have done just about everything you can imagine with a pine, or at least tried, but I have never done or till now heard of doing this. It is a standard practice with Trident Maples and Ficus but I have not heard of it done with a Pine. It might work but I am sceptical about it--but that's just me. As to the Pine itself. I always try to look at them in cases like this, as though the tree were mine and what I would do with it. Next year I would plant it in the ground and let the base fatten up, there is little there to work with at present. There is no real good foundation to build upon stylistically and the branching is not a good deal better. I don't mean to disappoint or discourage but I have dealt with more Mugo Pines than a lot of people have seen in their life times and this one needs to grow to open up options.
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The only finished bonsai is a dead one; me 1992 MABA Des Moines Iowa Last edited by Vance Wood : 21-Dec-2006 at 09:48 PM. |
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#17 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Dec-2006
Location: Knoxville/Harriman, TN
Country: US
Posts: 6
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If it lives, and if I use it at all. It may just be breeding stock for my nursery, and a nice tree.
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#18 |
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tree love
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Yes, I meant like with figs. I've seen cypress grow this way, I don't know if it would work with pines, you could keep this tree as an experiment. It's always good to try new things.
I don't know much about mugos but I've heard that they backbud well, so let it grow unhindered for years, then when you're satisfied with the thickness of the base, cut it back. To thicken the base quickly, try Repotter's slapstick technique, whereby you take an ice lolly stick and flick it against the base of the tree every 2 week during the growing season. Apparently this damages the cambium and forces the tree to generate new tissue around the base. If you keep one of the thin branches you have now as a leader, you could get some serious taper. http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthr...12&page=3&pp=10 This is the thread where it was discussed (#29). There are some other wierd and wonderful ideas floating about there too, about to get thicker trunks and good branches etc. Enjoy
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Richard Last edited by ElGringo : 22-Dec-2006 at 03:41 PM. |
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#19 | |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Quote:
You never try to thicken the trunk of any pine or conifer by striking the trunk with any thing harder than a well cooked piece of pasta----in other words don't do this.
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The only finished bonsai is a dead one; me 1992 MABA Des Moines Iowa |
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#20 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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"This is the thread where it was discussed (#29). There are some other wierd and wonderful ideas floating about there too, about to get thicker trunks and good branches etc. "
They may be wierd and wonderful, but are mostly useless in getting decent results. Striking the trunk does indeed damage the cambium, which resticts the path of nutrients up and down the trunk--which produces the swelling as the plant has to make new pathways to do the job--scar tissue does not transfer moisture or nutrients. Strike too hard in the wrong place on the wrong tree and you will kill the trunk above where you hit it. Shortcuts rarely work in the long term and can even wind up killing the tree. A better, more effective way is to simply plant the tree in the ground for a few years, leave it alone and wait. You get better results in about the same time as fooling around with hammering, scoring or otherwise compromising the trunk of the plant. |
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