problem with ficus

ekillians

Without the root rot, indeed it doesn't sound like overwatering, but i said to check for that just in case - not assume it was.

Also, i'm sticking to my guns on letting your ficus get near dry before watering. On an indoor tree with less airflow than outside you can get problems if it doesn't dry out including bugs, disease and root rot. I'm not sure how many ficus pat has owned but my experience with them is that they need to come CLOSE to drying out (but not completely) but they do enjoy high humidity.

lets also be be clear that watering is very much a product of your environment. Pat is on the west coast - california where, more than likely, he gets much warmer weather that stays mostly in the 70s or warmer. Myself on the east coast, can get cooler spells and a range of weather. I imagine Pat would have less problems with overwatering in his location whereas my location in the northeast is notorious for overwatering.

Don't take my word for it, check out the well respected:

Paul Lesniewicz: Watering - give plenty during growing season from spring to autumn, but less if sited somewhere cooler. Water sparingly in winter, allowing to dry out slightly before watering.

Also:

Read this in its entirety:
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/watering.htm

Quote below from this link:
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/indoors.htm

"There are three basic methods to determine if the plant needs water. My favorite, not necessarily the best, is to simply pick the plant up. Dry plants are significantly lighter than well watered ones. You can easily learn the difference. The second is to scratch the soil with your finger and see how dry it is under the surface. It varies somewhat with soils and volume, but if the soil is dry down past a quarter of an inch, it probably needs watering. If the surface is still moist, it most definitely does not need watering. The third method is the infamous Persiano Pick, a method devised by one our illustrious Internet Bonsai Club (IBC) members. Use a piece of chopstick or wooden skewer as a sort of dipstick. Leave it in planted in the pot. To test for water pull it out and check the moisture on the stick. If the stick is dry or dryish, it's time to water. All of these methods take a little practice, but you should be able to satisfactorily learn one or all of them in about a week. "

And again, my suspicions were overwatering - but again if the roots were okay I suppose I was wrong but none- the-less - overwatering is more common than underwatering. And they can tolerate dry spells.

http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum...echnique18.html

"Joe Carriere of JoeBonsai.com writes about a Ficus microcarpa 'Ginseng' that he shipped to Asia. Apparently it wound up somewhere other than with its intended recipient. Four months later the box was returned to Joe unopened and in its original packing. On quick inspection Joe determined that the tree had lost all its leaves and its branches. Despite that fact he continued to water it and with a little tender loving care the Ficus sprouted again and will become a bonsai in the not so distant future.
The moral of the story is that many Ficus have quite an ability to tolerate dehydration. They will recover without much problem if the dryness is short-lived. With more severe dryness they will lose leaves. With more prolonged dryness branches will be lost. Do not discard a dried out Ficus for a month or two - at least - as they can resprout. In general, more Ficus are lost to coninual overwatering and not to a brief period of dryness"

__________________
The great French Marshall Lyautey once asked his gardener to plant a tree. The gardener objected that the tree was slow growing and would not reach maturity for 100 years. The Marshall replied, 'In that case, there is no time to lose; plant it this afternoon!'
-- John F. Kennedy

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PatArizona

G'day Friends...

Again…I say: My OPINIONS…that is, what works for me…in the interests of keeping bonsai healthy and happy.

For whatever it’s worth…I have posted, several times, to this forum, the following:

In order for you to water your bonsai properly, you need to learn the watering needs of each of your trees. One of the following statements should describe the needs of each of your trees:

• Keep soil moist at all times, but not wet.
• Water only if the soil is drying out.
• Water when the soil is almost dry.
• Water when the soil has dried to the point that it will be DRY before your next watering.
• When soil is DRY, water yesterday.

Now…I have nothing but the greatest respect for Paul, Brent and Jerry. All three provide excellent resources.

Further, I’m not at all convinced that I said anything that conflicts with their advice.

But, you said “…You should really let it dry out almost completely…”.

Paul said (from your quote) “…allowing to dry out slightly before watering…”.

Brent (from your quote) “…if the soil is dry down past a quarter of an inch, it probably needs watering…”.

Jerry said (from your quote) “…Ficus have quite an ability to tolerate dehydration…”.
Jerry said, further, from his book FICUS: THE EXOTIC BONSAI “…Figs resent bone dry conditions but absolutely hate constantly soggy conditions…”.

Again, my OPINION…I don’t think that either of them intended to say “… You should really let it dry out almost completely …“ as a regular practice.

Even the “JoeBonsai” story is a tale of an extreme experience…not regular practice.

Again, my OPINIONS…

In the interests of keeping your bonsai healthy and happy…

Pat

__________________
BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain.
THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life.

Sydney_Pete

In regards to the photo,

Looks to me like a 'tiger bark fig' Ficus microcarpa

but the dark green, oversized leaves and the long internodes suggest lack of light. They are a hardy bunch, so hopefully she will pull through. When my plants are stressed due to me missing a water (or 2). I give a soak in a seaweed based root conditioner. and steer clear of fertilizers until they look themselves again.

Good luck. and I would suggest the sunniest spot in the garden once it is back to full strength.

aesir22

hi, thanks for all the responses.

the pics were taken as soon as i bought it, so not guilty for the lack of light lol. thats garden centers for you! its in a really sunny spot now, and im watching watering extremely carefully. im sure it will be fine with some tlc!

PatArizona

G'day all...

Another controversial OPINION. Or not.

"...Whatever the case, do not fertilize until it recovers...".

For some years now, I have continued normal fertilizing with repotted, and otherwize struggling bonsai.

Here's a little something to support my opinion, and practice.

From Brent at Evergreen Garden Works: "...Another common bonsai myth is that sick or recovering plants, or newly transplanted bonsai should not be fertilized. The analogy is that it will over feed the patient or is the equivalent of over dosing with vitamins. I think the proper analogy should be that feeding at half strength or not all is analogous to not taking your medicine, vitamins and nutrition when you are sick...".

Again, my opinion. It works for me.

Pat

__________________
BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain.
THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life.

Sydney_Pete

Interesting, that is contrary to all I have read and been taught. and I have never even thought to try. I did hear a good reason not to do this once. I am not exactly sure what it was so I wont go trying to repeat it.

wicksy

I agree with the last few posts sounds like underwater prob, even more if the soil is not logged. You might be lucky that the weather is warming, try putting clear plastic bag over it with corner cut off. This might help bit ficus love humidity to, dont over water now as it has no leaves to take it up. You can leaf chop ficus okay in summer so cross your fingers see if it comes back. Dont worry if you loose it you learn from your mistakes.

glenn.

PatArizona

G'day Pete...

Like I said..."...Another controversial OPINION. Or not...".

Not trying to tell anybody that he/she should do it my way...simply, that there is another way, that works for me.

If you have a fertilizing regimen that you're happy with...no reason to change.

Just another option...

Pat

__________________
BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain.
THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life.