Need Help

Aaron_K

Hi Lee,

The link doesn't work. You will need to upload it to either a photo sharing website or better yet, upload it here as an attachment. Resize the photo to less than 801x801 pixels and below 78k.

To attach a file, scroll down from reading this to the "Manage attachments" button. Click that, and a window will appear. Browse to the file on your pc. Click upload and voila.

All the best,

Aaron

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Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. - Muriel Strode

Vulpes pilum mutat, non mores!

"A fox may change its skin but never its character"

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WADDY82

Cheers Aaron,

Here they are. I Hope

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Aaron_K

Hi Lee,

Although the photo's aren't as clear as could be, it does look like limescale around the edges of the pot. If this is the case, it isn't anything really to worry about. It just can make the pots look a bit shabby.

Looking at the few patches of soil where there is no moss, it does appear to contain a lot of small particles. I had a Shimpaku juniper arrive in an identical pot to yours and the soil looks the same too. Mine consisted of a highly organic, heavy soil, kind of chocolate brown in colour. There was a lot of clay/loam and it stayed wet for absolutely ages.

Although moss is pretty, it can cause problems. It can interfere with air entering the root mass as readily and also keeping the soil wetter for a lot longer, which if you have a soil that is not fast draining isn't going to help matters.

Personally, I'd remove the moss and allow the soil to dry out a lot more, helping air to get to the roots. Then only water again when the soil is slightly damp. If you can, try placing it under a shelter where its not going to get rained on for the time being, then water as others have advised. As its got no leaves, its not going to matter how much sunshine it gets at the moment.

You may be lucky and the tree recovers quickly and puts out some leaves before autumn. That's only about 4-6 weeks away now really. If it doesn't show signs of recovery by then, it won't do so till spring next year, assuming its left outside. Follow Mike's advice regarding winter care. Around December, scratch the bark to see if the base of the trunk is still green. If it is, the tree should be fine come spring. If there is no green in cambium layer, then the tree is dead.

If it does survive, I'd strongly recommend repotting it next year before the buds break, and get it into a nice fast draining soil.

Hope that helps.

All the best,

Aaron

__________________
Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. - Muriel Strode

Vulpes pilum mutat, non mores!

"A fox may change its skin but never its character"

syburn

Hi - Im in China now and its seems that most trees I see have dark fine soil with no visable gravel in it. Also I have never seen water coming out of my drainage holes. I think I need to quickly get new soil.

Mybe, and unfortunately for me I think the china bonsai market is geared for export. I'm having a tough time finding any same non pine trees.

syburn

WOW - did you buy the tree on the internet from Asia?

WADDY82

Hi All,

First id like to thank all the comments tok onboard all the advice and put the tree out side. All went well with the leaves growing back and having a great waxy texture. But 2 or 3 weeks ago the weather turned for the worst with ground frost snow and temperature droping below freezing so i brought it in. Since i have brought it in it has started to lose it's leaves again and looking like it did when it was sick (Which i think was me overwatering and not letting the water run clear underneath). While it has been in i have been more careful of watering it allowing time and space for the water to run clear and also checking the soil for moisture before watering were as before i stuck to a regime of 1 litre every 3 days. It is a lot warmer inside is the bonsai just taking time to adjust to the climate change? Does it need watering more offten with it beeing warmer?? Please help.

Cheers.
Lee.

Aaron_K

Hi Lee,

All my Chinese elms are outside underneath a shelter/bonsai work area. This way they get the ambient temperatures, but are protected from the elements. Often it is cold winds that cause more damage than frost/snow. As mine are on benches under a corrugated plastic roof, I'm also able to control the watering too.

All still have green leaves and even new growth, despite the temperatures dropping to below freezing on a few nights . They should drop leaf when the temps dip below 6c, so I'm a bit stumped really lol. If it were me, I'd have left the tree outside under a shelter, out of the wind or in a garden shed.

Bringing it inside and outside all the time will stress the plant as its been preparing itself for dormancy the past 6 weeks or so, and now its experiencing summer temps by being indoors. They are hardy down to -6c and even further given adequate protection. Here in UK zone 8/9 Chinese elms should be absolutely fine outside, as they are tough little buggers. Playing/pampering them more often than not results in a dead tree.

The tree is possibly re-adjusting itself and given a few weeks should push out new growth. It will require artificial lighting to top up on the shortening day length. Just make sure you don't position it near a radiator or heat source as you can slow bake the roots. Allow to dry out till the soil is damp, between waterings and when the tree shows signs of improving, give it a weak feed once a month over winter. A tomato plant fertilizer would work well, as these are already reduced in nitrogen and can be used at regular strength usually.

Put it back outside in Spring 2006 and repot it into a faster draining soil. Fingers crossed.

All the best,

Aaron

__________________
Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. - Muriel Strode

Vulpes pilum mutat, non mores!

"A fox may change its skin but never its character"

MoSinister

Waddy, if you haven't removed all the moss yet, remember that you can keep it and reuse it later. It doesn't have to be thrown out. You can keep it in a shallow tray with old soil and keep it moist. I've read a number of places that it shouldn't cover the entire soil surface of a potted plant (at least not for extended periods), so if you planned on keeping some on, I'd recommend removing at least half of it. Moss is for display purposes.

~Mo

johnbonsai

Hi there Waddy, the sounds of your first post make me think that the Elm was adjusting to its new environment. The white crust makes me think that it isn't used to tap water either. I would suggest trying to acclimatise the tree by boldly keeping it where you want it to live, but take care with it. Also have you thought of potting it on into a slightly larger pot with a boundary mix of 50% soil similar to what its in and 50% soil that's been sugested. It does sound to me that the problem is due to external factors. The water your using and its new home. If the tree has been kept indoors most of its life, the first leaf drop you mentioned might have been the tree getting rid of leaves its had for a very long time!

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