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Does this juniper look sick?

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Old 30-Aug-2007   #11
DrDirt
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Go easy with the Kocide or copper based fungicide as it can cause some damage to the foliage of evergreens if you overdo it. You might consider another type of fungicide as an alternative.
If if is phomopsis of kabatina tip blight, sanitize by removing all diseased foliage from the plant and pot. don't get the foliage wet when you're watering and consider fertilizer whith a higher phosphorus content and slow-release nitrogen fert.
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Old 31-Aug-2007   #12
damon00
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Thanks guys. I didn't know that copper based fungicides were hard on the trees, hopefully I won't over-do it. I was planning to do it once a week, for about 3 weeks and see what happens.

I have removed all the effected foliage from the tree and pot, I even went as far as picking tips that had fallen into the soil out with tweasers. Hopefully I got it all. I think I did, I was extremely careful.

I have started watering the soil and not the canapy. I guess I'll avoid misting as well for a while. At least untill I'm sure it has cleared up.

And thanks for the advice on the fertilizer Dr Dirt, I'll definitely switch to something like what you suggest.
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Old 31-Aug-2007   #13
Vance Wood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damon00
Thanks guys. I didn't know that copper based fungicides were hard on the trees, hopefully I won't over-do it. I was planning to do it once a week, for about 3 weeks and see what happens.

I have removed all the effected foliage from the tree and pot, I even went as far as picking tips that had fallen into the soil out with tweasers. Hopefully I got it all. I think I did, I was extremely careful.

I have started watering the soil and not the canapy. I guess I'll avoid misting as well for a while. At least untill I'm sure it has cleared up.

And thanks for the advice on the fertilizer Dr Dirt, I'll definitely switch to something like what you suggest.


I wouldn't, I once advised someone to use Bordeaux mix on a Juniper and the Juniper is no more after one application. Bordeaux is a copper based fungicide. In my opinion, and fear, I will be surprised if the tree survives the initial application, and I hope to be so wrong that you will purchase a bill board stating that Vance Wood was wrong.
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Old 31-Aug-2007   #14
damon00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vance Wood
I wouldn't, I once advised someone to use Bordeaux mix on a Juniper and the Juniper is no more after one application. Bordeaux is a copper based fungicide. In my opinion, and fear, I will be surprised if the tree survives the initial application, and I hope to be so wrong that you will purchase a bill board stating that Vance Wood was wrong.

Eek! That's very worrying. Maybe I should just stop at one application and hope for the best. Anyway, as I see it the blight would have killed or ruined the trees anyway so... I had to try something.
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Old 31-Aug-2007   #15
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Juniper pest?

Damon, there is a pest that I never knew existed until a few years ago.
It is a very tiny bug, so tiny I have never seen one. But the symptoms on the juniper are those little brown areas at the base of greenery. If you touch what appears to be a perfectly healthy bit of foliage or small branchlet and it just comes off with no pressure applied check the part where it separated from the tree for browning....it is probably a twig girdler. We call it girdle beetle. I spray as a prevention more than anything else. Cygone is good if it is allowed where you live. If not, then any good systemic. Neem oil might work but I prefer something a little harsher for heavy duty bugs like this. Take comfort in knowing that these sprays will also get rid of other pests if they are present. Good luck with your tree, I hope it survives.
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Old 31-Aug-2007   #16
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Be careful also with preventative insecticide sprays. Most insecticeides do a poor job controlling spider mites, but a great job killing all nearby biological control, so you might actually increase any mite populations unless you're using a specific miticide. look for the active ingredient abamectin.
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Old 1-Sep-2007   #17
damon00
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Thanks susieq, but what I'm seeing is a bit different. But you never know. Is there a way to test for these bugs?

DrDirt: Yeah, doing alot of spraying makes me nervous. At the moment I'm very concerned about what this copper based fungicide I sprayed on them might do. I'm even beginning to wonder if I should wash it off. The bottle says rain tends to wash it away...
Anyway, thanks for the tip. I'll keep an eye out for products with abamectin in it.
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Old 1-Sep-2007   #18
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I fretted and fretted about what insecticide to use this year, as I am also concerned about spraying my trees with anything. I initiated a thread in the spring about this subject and asked specifically about Bayer's 12 month systemic.

After somewhat lukewarm replies I took a big risk and used it anyway. guess what? NO BUGS ON MY 120+ TREES AND THE TREES ARE HEALTHY!! PHEW! Use as directed. (ha!)

As for fungicides, I use Safer brand (sulfur based) and for really bad problems, Daconil, without harm to the trees, including junipers. At least so far.

Isn't there any non-copper based fungicide that will work?
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Old 1-Sep-2007   #19
Vance Wood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfecme
I fretted and fretted about what insecticide to use this year, as I am also concerned about spraying my trees with anything. I initiated a thread in the spring about this subject and asked specifically about Bayer's 12 month systemic.

After somewhat lukewarm replies I took a big risk and used it anyway. guess what? NO BUGS ON MY 120+ TREES AND THE TREES ARE HEALTHY!! PHEW! Use as directed. (ha!)

As for fungicides, I use Safer brand (sulfur based) and for really bad problems, Daconil, without harm to the trees, including junipers. At least so far.

Isn't there any non-copper based fungicide that will work?


I don't believe Daconil is Copper based. Captan is pretty good if you can find it and Benomil.
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Old 1-Sep-2007   #20
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Chipping in re shimpaku

Hello,

From your pictures, the tree doesn't look too bad. But I don't have the up-close-and-personal, 4-dimensional observation that you have.

Others who have replied have more experience than I with shimpaku pests and diseases. I have just two thoughts at this point.

First, please get rid of the two-soil interface as soon as you can. Depending on your local climate, you might consider repotting now, tho only as a last resort in view of the weakened foliage.

Second, in my admittedly limited shimpaku experience, these trees are on the tough side. I bought a shimpaku to commemorate my daughter's birth 7 years ago. (Some dads plant trees, I bought one.) Last summer it ran into some problems while we were on vacation. I feared for its survival. But tho it lost a a major leader, it has survived, recovered its strength, and will still make a nice bonsai.

Hang in there!
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