Ailing black pine

xxbodhixx

I collected a black pine earlier this spring from a neighbors yard. I sheltered the tree for about 3 weeks and it showed no sign of transplant shock what-so-ever. At week 4 I moved the tree to a somewhat more sunny location (but still very shady) and there it sits today.

It has been about 2 months since transplant and only this weekend did it start to show any sign of stress. But now it looks pretty poor. The only factor that nags me it that when I transplanted the tree, I mixed perlite into the native soil, but I don't guess I mixed enough in. The soil is slow to wet and never dries. Still, I watered it every day after transplant and mostly every day now.

The older needles are turning brown and the newer ones are turning yellow. Could it be the poor soil? Is transplant into better soil this late a drastic measure that is needed? Or is it too wet and shaded? OR do black pine simply put off their transplant shock for 2 months? I am ready to act, but I don't know which of these, or combo of these to try.

Thanks!
Terry

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cray13

Do you have any images of the tree?

How much of the rootball were you able to save (percent) when you transplanted?

What type of soil and container is it in now?

How much top growth did you prune away?

More information will help anyone else who may want to assist.


Can you clarify what you mean by "slow to wet".

My guess without more information is that you've actually watered the tree too much. Watering on a schedule doesn't always work because how much you water depends on the needs of the tree, the moisture retention of the soil, humidity etc.

In similar situations I've heard others suggest an emergency repot into nothing but coarse sand, but I'd let it dry out a bit first and see if anyone with more experience than I chimes in with advice.

Maybe with a little more info and a picture others will feel compelled to offer assistance.

xxbodhixx

I have no picture now, but I can provide more information.

It seems that I retained almost all of the root ball as it hardly had one. I would guess I kepy 90% or more.

It is in the soil that was in the bed I dug it from (sandy, clay) mixed with pearlite.

I put it in a growing box approximately 12" x 12" x 8".

I pruned only dead branches off, all live branches were spared as it only has a few (this tree is a natural bonsai, it had really been neglected.)

By slow to wet I mean that it is poorly draining soil despite the pearlite. Water sits on top of the soil for 15 - 20 seconds before soaking in.

I think I am settling on root rot or, like you said, just too soggy. I feel like I will probably pull the tree out and inspect the roots for rot then put it in the ground. If anyone objects, let me know because it it deteoriating quickly.

Thanks to all!!

Terry

cray13

Does your grow box have good drainage ( a lot of drainage holes? ).

Definitely sounds like the soil is too soggy.

Probably the best thing to do is let it dry out. If your grow box doesn't have any holes in it for drainage then you may want to drill some extra holes through the sides and bottom.

I don't think putting it back in the ground at this point is going to do much.

Anyone else have any advice?

Graydon

If you are seeing those symptoms more than likely it's already dead or nearly so. If that is the case that what do you have to lose?

You need coarse sand as cray13 pointed out. Go to a pool supply store and ask for filter sand, the coarsest they have. It's sold in bulk bags like 25 or 50 pounds each and one should fill your box. Make sure the bottom drainage holes in your box will allow very fast drainage and keep the sand in place. Very fast drainage is the key here - if the water slowly goes thru it will promote root rot as well as not get enough oxygen to the roots (the roots take up the oxygen the tree needs to survive) and essentially rot and starve the tree to death.

Place some sand in the bottom, place the tree in the box and wire it in place. It is essential that the tree does not move much at all as movement will break off the fine new or old feeder roots. Use guy wires from the sides of the box to an upper area to help stabilize if needed. Fill around the tree's roots with the same sand being careful not to harm any roots but do not leave air pockets. Plant it a bit deep and make sure all roots are covered (no need to expose the nebari now...). Do not leave the root mass exposed to sun and the breeze while planting, mist it and throw a wet rag over it if it is exposed for more than a minute or so. Damp and dark is good protection until covered in sand.

Move to an area where the tree will get full morning sun but mid day and afternoon shade. Water only when the sand is slightly wet down inside, use a chop stick as a dip stick if you need to. Monitor it as often as you can as you may need to water a couple of times as day as pure sand will dry out much faster than other soils.

Mist the needles a couple of times a day minimum. Misting the needles will help the tree remain cool and minimize the evaporation of any moisture from the needles.

Feed with a dilute fish emulsion once a week mixed in to water at 1/2 the rate on the label.

I have used a very similar treatment to bring back a few JBP. It may or may not work but you might as well try it.

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