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4-Jan-2004
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#1 |
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Guest
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Odd Salvage Job
This is a Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia) that I purchased 4 years ago. Actually, I bought 2 of them, put one in a bonsai pot and this one in the ground. Both were the size of my index finger (trunk gifth).
This is the photo of the tree later than year in my backyard. 4 more images to come... Kind regards, Andy Rutledge www.andyrutledge.com/ zone 8, Texas |
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Odd Salvage Job |
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4-Jan-2004
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#2 |
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Guest
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...here is the same tree 2 years later. The blurry kid is my son. ;-)
Kind regards, Andy |
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4-Jan-2004
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#3 |
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Guest
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...at the end of the year of the previous photo, I chopped the tree down to a stump. I did it wrong and cut on an angle (ugh). Of course only the lower part of the angle sprounted, so I had to recut the tree saving the new shoots. The new "lower" angle of the new cut did not sprout (ugh).
The tree was basically botched at this point, but I let the tree grow for another year and dug it up this past spring. Here is the tree in it's training pot. The trunk is 4" wide, the rootage 8". Kind regards, Andy |
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4-Jan-2004
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#4 |
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Guest
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...Today I gave the tree its first styling; trying to salvage the stump for bonsai. Here's the "before" shot.
Kind regards, Andy |
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4-Jan-2004
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#5 |
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Guest
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...And here's the result of the first wiring. I trimmed everything back except those shoots that really need to bulk up faster than the rest. Also selected the front.
This tree has pretty poor branching - only 1 on the front side (for initial branching). Because of this, in the spring I'll thread graft a new branch where the arrow is. That branch will come forward a bit. The dead core will be carved out to produce a tapered hollow (for the near future). Ultimately it will certainly go straight down through to the soil. There's no good way to completely stop the rot with such a large wound. I plan to make something of an oak-style broom form; a hoary old oak looking thing. The only really nice thing about it is the rootage. Chinese elms don't usually have a 360 degree radial root flare. For that at least I'm happy. I shot a bunch of photos and will shoot its development over the next 3 to 5 years for an article. Time will tell if it can be salvaged for a decent bonsai. I'm optimistic. Kind regards, Andy Rutledge www.andyrutledge.com/ zone 8, Texas |
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4-Jan-2004
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
 
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I think it is excellent. I have seen this done on large specimen trees but very rarely seen on this size. Should turn out great in your hands.
__________________
Bonsai Northwest Inc, Melbourne, Australia Bonsai Flora Nursery in Yarraville, Melbourne |
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4-Jan-2004
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#7 |
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Bitten By The Bonsai Bug!
 
Join Date: Nov-2002
Location: San Jose, California
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 9
AHS Heat Zone: 4/5
Posts: 534
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Andy,
You have a right to be optomistic with your talent and the rootage and time, I'm sure you'll pull it out! BTW what is the correct way to do a trunk chop? Lesley PS I love BTO and am trying to renew my subscription w/ paypal (waiting for #) and I loved your online novel!
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Ladybug |
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4-Jan-2004
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#8 |
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Guest
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Here's a very quick and dirty digital sketch of a possible future. I dunno. We'll see. ;-)
Kind regards, Andy |
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4-Jan-2004
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#9 |
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Old Mister Crow
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Hi Andy,
I like that sketch of the final image. Reminds me quite a lot of this hackberry (?) from the Pacific Rim collection... I too would like to hear your thoughts on the right way to chop (an elm and/or trees in general). Cheers, Carl
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In love with trees |
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4-Jan-2004
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#10 |
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Guest
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Thanks David. I appreciate your confidence. ;-)
Lesley, Thanks. The correct way to trunk chop is to cut straight across. Ultimately we often create an angle on the cut, but if you make your initial chop on an angle, you risk terrible outcomes. You can see this technique addressed in the BTOJ archives > Beginners > Trunk Chopping 101. Kind regards, Andy Rutledge www.andyrutledge.com/ zone 8, Texas |
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