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14-Jan-2002
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#1 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
 
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Japanese Maple Repot story
This is the story of a new bonsai... Well it's actually an old tree that has become a bonsai. This year, I began my spring repotting in late winter with a tree that I have had in a growing box for two years. This tree was purchased at an estate auction about 9 years ago. A rough-bark Japanese Maple 'Arakawa'
The tree was in good health even when I received it, but this is the first time it has ever seen a bonsai pot. The original owner had it in a fuschia bowl, and then I moved it to a small redwood patio box 6 years ago to improve its vigor, then to this growing box about 2 years ago It's hard to believe this bonsai is probably 35 years old and has never been in a pot until today. 
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14-Jan-2002
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#2 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
The growing box was shallow and wide to allow the root base to develop. It also has great drainage because the bottom is slatted.
I started out by working my way around the perimeter with a root hook. Roots grow very compactly and tend to work into the spaces and corners. 
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14-Jan-2002
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#3 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
Next step is to cut the wires that secure the tree in the pot. It's important to tie the tree in securely so that the fine feeder roots can develop without breaking if the tree is jostled in the wind
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14-Jan-2002
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#4 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
A couple more laps around the perimeter with the root hook and you should be able to pry the tree out. The root ball is very dense and healthy.
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14-Jan-2002
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#5 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
This is how to handle a rough barked tree: gingerly grasp the upper trunk at a branch and hold the root ball. A lot of pines and cedars get ruined by folks holding them by the bases and scrubbing off bark.
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14-Jan-2002
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#6 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
Using a chopstick, it's time to start combing out the roots. I'll alternate between the sturdy chopstick and the root hook, moving around the perimeter and underneath the tree especially.
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14-Jan-2002
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#7 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
About 20 minutes have gone by and I have located the tie-down wires. Always be sure you have the root ball combed out before you cut any roots, or you may find an ugly surprise buried in the soil
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14-Jan-2002
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#8 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
Now the root pruning is underway. I am using a sturdy pair of shears. Inexpensive ones beneath the soil line. If you have a quality pair that is well used and nicked, go ahead and use those.
The root ball will be cut into an oval shape 
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14-Jan-2002
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#9 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
Now the tree is turned on end and more cutting is done on the underside. The root ball should be very flat and shallow, slightly dished underneath.
The bulk of the rootwork was done when this tree went into the growing box, so there are no large roots growing downward. NONE! At this point the shearing just consists of cleanup work. 
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14-Jan-2002
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#10 |
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Re: Japanese Maple Repot story
The root ball is shaped to allow some space around the inside of the new bonsai pot. A test fit or two is necessary. The root pad is flat so the tree stands on its own, but you could use some blocks or wedges if the tree's roots aren't this well developed.
You want a space all around, somewhere around 1" or more depending on the size of the container and tree. The container will now be prepared with drainage screen and wire. There is some information on that process in the TreeBay Bonsai Tools & Supplies site under Azalea repotting. 
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