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#12 |
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Banned 08JUN2005
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Andy, I'm really interested in this tree because of the species (JRP is very similar in many ways to the Short Leaf Pines, P. echinata, native to this area that I'm working with), the beauty of this particular tree and the very interesting technique you are bringing to bear on it.
I'm interested in the time frame you are working in. I wonder whether you might comment on the time it took to get to the stage you started working on it 2 years ago and how much longer you think it will take to reach a basically stable design stage. This tree looks alot like my best collected Short Leaf Pine. I didn't think thert was much chance it would survive when I collected it because I lost so much of its roots, but it has and is now growing very vigorously. It is turning into a very beautiful tree and my biggest fear is that I will mess it up because of my inexperience. If you get nervous about doing the right thing, think about how it must be to be in my shoes! |
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#13 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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Andy: Good progress. Your eye is getting better and better ... the more trees you work on. Also, let's raise the arguement about web learning here. Lots of us can learn from what you are doing. Ifr we want to. That's a beauty ob web-learning -- if you want you can. Same as workshops with good leaders.
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David Yedwab |
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#14 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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regarding how long jin lasts. Generalizations: older wood is generally harder and therefore will last longer as jin than younger or fast growing wood. Preservatives can and should be used to preserve jin/shari as the wood becomes punky. Recommendations include wood hardeners and wooden boat epoxy (git rot).
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David Yedwab |
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#15 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Thanks guys for all the nice comments. Made my day.
Hank, David's observations about the jin are astute. Steps can be taken, but eventually all jin on a pine will deteriorate. JonnyD, Thanks mate! FredL, This pine is probably 45 to 65 years old. It has old wood/bark all the way to almost the tips of every branch. It has been in training for some time. The time involved to bring this pine up to where it might ought to be would be about 1 year. It is not so because I've been mulling things over for so long. This last bit of work left several things undone. For instance, the apical region needs to be thinned by 1 or 2 branches. Furthermore, I did not wire out the entire tree. It is still messy. The long needles are just because I did not bud cut this year in order to let it gather strength. By this time next year, it could easily be a winner. With a few more years and some back-budding, it will have an even more aged, mature look. As for your pines, I can't advise you as I've not seen them over the past 1-2 years. However, a pine that is growing vigorously and in good health can be worked hard. But, don't work it hard and then pick at it for another few months. Work hard - let rest fully. David, Thanks. I agree that the web can be a good learning tool. The trouble is, of course, that we may learn all sorts of awful stuff. However, it is a great resource and I post this kind of thing because I believe that some might learn from seeing it - AND - I might learn from hearing what others say about it. It's just a big cycle. Kind regards, Andy Rutledge www.andyrutledge.com/palaver/main.htm zone 8, Texas |
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#16 |
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Recovering Workaholic
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Andy:
I hope you'll forgive the relatively crude virtual. I'm wondering if you cut the apex off if it would help to emphasize the trunk more by reducing the foliage mass. To my eye the apex as it is now detracts from the trunk and the downward motion of that first descending branch to the left, which I really like. The trunk is marvelous on this tree. Craig Cowing NY Zone 5b/6a Sunset 37
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I'm not finished yet, neither are my trees. |
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#17 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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Craig: Interesting idea on some trees, but IMHO, not on this one. The feminine elegance comes from the tall (relatively) and lean proportions.
I often believe less is more -- this, to me, illustrates why the "rules" are general guidelines, not always to be followed.
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David Yedwab |
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