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#1 |
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Perpetual Learner
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Pups minis
G,day I started a reply which got lost in cyberspace on the last post of micro Forrest. As I said I was looking for the right size pot. Point taken Joanie and Steven. The trees are now in growing on pots. Steven in Western Australia we have ( almost ) perfect growing conditions. The tree that Joanie likes as she put it ( is awesome ) which is 25mm base 95mms high, took just three years from a cutting not dissimilar to the trees in the group. I have a system for my cuttings. which applies to all of my cuttings. I select what looks promising then coat the cut with cutting hormones I use jell, a friend uses ( Honey ) he has a huge success rate. I then put them in a mini hot house. I cut a cool drink container(soda drink ) in half I the put the cutting in a pot with 75% crushed gravel or sharp sand 2mms-3mms 25% coco peat(choir peat coconut husks) and put the cut drink container over the pot and keep it moist. I start fertilising on the second flush of growth. Hope this of help here are a few more of my miniatures. Pup the first is a 3 month old Eucaclyptus cittriodora lemon scented gum The second is Ulmus parvifolia X suberosa and umlus parvifolia
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PUP Advanced begginner Heatzone USA9/10 Aus 3/4 Last edited by pup : 3-Sep-2006 at 09:06 AM. |
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#2 |
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Perpetual Learner
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The first tree is an Australian native Melaleuca rhaphiophylla you will notice the ( lignotuber ) which is a phenomena of Australian natives for survival in bush fires. Second Ulmus parvifolia. last but not least is Ulmus parvifolia. The last tree is the reason for the diatribe on my cuttings. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do Pup
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PUP Advanced begginner Heatzone USA9/10 Aus 3/4 Last edited by pup : 3-Sep-2006 at 09:13 AM. |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Hi Pup,
Yeah, really love your Chinese Elms. I dont understand completely, but do you make cuttings of a already woody elm part, just rubbing them with hormone powder and than coat them with honey?? How thick are those cutting's? Just in 3 years, marvelous, which we had a similar growing season here in Europe. Do you let them grow wild without cutting and than cut back at 30-40mm after the first year, than again growing wild, cut back at 60-70mm second year and so on? Do you trim the roots every year aswell? How about fertilizing? Would be very nice to make an article out of it, with pictures of the progress and all the things you do about them in a year. I know, lots of questions, hope you'll answer them, anyway thanks for sharing, really very nice, Wessel
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Every tree can be a bonsai, but only some will be. |
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#4 |
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Perpetual Learner
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G,day Wessel . Yes I look at all possibilities. If a tree I have in my collection is due for a severe prune I look at all the branches and twigs. I find with Shohin and Mame and Shito, to keep them in proportion they have to be severely cut back. When that happens I keep a sharp look out for good possibilities. I do not use Honey a friend of mine does he coates the end with it. I use hormone jell I will try to give a run down on what I do, however I do something! then I say bloody hell I should have photographed that. I will try though
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PUP Advanced begginner Heatzone USA9/10 Aus 3/4 |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Is the gel you use Clonex? I have just discovered and started using this.
Another method I have used is layering. I have one with potential on a tree right now.
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Steven South Central Idaho |
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#6 |
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Perpetual Learner
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G,day Steven.
Yes it is clonex I find it better than powder. Air layering is wonderful. The suberosa X is an air layer . Chinese elms here in the west really like the warm weather. We have just finished our hottest driest winter on record. Average temps were 19-and half Celsius and 300mls down on our mean average rain fall. We had a Japanese teacher here and his comment was, when he saw a shimpaku juniper he thought was 15 years old, then told it was only 5 years old ( I wish we could grow them that quick ). Our natives have up to eight growing seasons in one calender year that is why I like to grow them also. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do Pup
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PUP Advanced begginner Heatzone USA9/10 Aus 3/4 |
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Hi Pup -
I'm really impressed with your elms. I have a question about taking elm cuttings. I've been wildly successful at taking cuttings of everything else - really - but I also lose elm cuttings to fungus quickly. It happens especially quickly with elm hardwood cuttings. What do you do? Specifically, with large woody cuttings do you take them in early spring before they leaf out? If not, when do you take them? Thanks for any tips you can provide, Will |
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#8 |
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Bonsai Doer
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Very nice mini's. A man after my own heart.
Regards, Al
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If committing suicide by gas...please press or say one now If committing suicide by gun...please press or say two now If you are unsure on a way of committing suicide..please press or say three or stay on the line for further options... |
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#10 |
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Perpetual Learner
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G,day Will.
I take my cuttings all year round, as I have said we are blessed with good growing conditions here in Western Australia. To stop rot you could try what a friend of mine does he uses HONEY. He dips the cutting ends in honey. Another friend who is a nurseryman dips them in bleach. A 10 to one ratio!! Try using the closh method a plasic tent of clear plastic like the soda pop bottles. Hope this helps if you need any more help let me know and I will post a pic of how I do it. Regards Pup
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PUP Advanced begginner Heatzone USA9/10 Aus 3/4 |
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