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Watering fired clay?

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Old 10-Mar-2008   #1
subnet_rx
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Watering fired clay?

I have just potted some of my plants in fired clay (some 100%, some 50/50 with bark) as per a few articles I've read here and other places. It drains well, really well. The problem I'm really having with it as a beginner is how to tell when to water again. With soil, you can really feel the moistness or even wetness after watering, but with this stuff, it really seems to me to be the same 10 minutes after watering as it is 24 hours after watering. I can easily tell the completely dry particles by the color, but as to whether it is moist or wet, I'm really having trouble with that. Can I just assume that since I'm using this, I should have to water every day? Or should I wait for the top particles to dry out before watering again?
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Old 10-Mar-2008   #2
waltr
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Ah...the learning of when to water. An idea that I use are:
Push a bamboo skewer or chop stick into the soil, remove to check. I find that it is fairly easy to tell if the skewer is damp or dry.
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Old 11-Mar-2008   #3
subnet_rx
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Thanks, I'm going to try that. The weird thing is, I have a moisture meter and it just won't register it. It works in my potting mix, cactus mix, and even orchid mix which contains huge particles.
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Old 11-Mar-2008   #4
MelloBonsai
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Sometimes it needs a deeper pot to register. Chopstick method works good as the other poster suggested.
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Old 11-Mar-2008   #5
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A typical garden moisture meter has a metal tip seperated from the rest of the metal rod by plastic. The amount of electrical conduction between them is what measures the moisture. If there is no contact between them it will not register.

That means that potting soil, bad for bonsai, will give good acuurate readings since the particles are so small and close together. With a good gritty bonsai soil like calcined clay, there will be no such contact because the particles are
larger, far apart with gaps in between them.

For me a finger is the best judge of moisture, but with a really good, fast draining mix you can water daily to be safe and not have to worry about over watering.
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Old 20-Mar-2008   #6
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I have my trees in the same mixture. In training pots though, not shallow bonsai pots. My top inch or so dries out very fast while the remaining stays soaked for a much greater time period. Im going to try and put something on the surface to try and balance this out. I see some people watering everytime the surface gets dry, but my trees would stay soaked if I did this. The frustrating part is some folks water tons of trees like every other day, dry or not, and they grow great. While I take much care in watering exactly when each tree needs it, yet they still grow weak. Figure that one out.
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Old 20-Mar-2008   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nip
The frustrating part is some folks water tons of trees like every other day, dry or not, and they grow great. While I take much care in watering exactly when each tree needs it, yet they still grow weak. Figure that one out.
There's something else going on. With a really well draining soil mix, like the calcined clay, you can water 2-3 times a day if you want and not have to worry about root rot, but it's a waste of time & water. Perhaps you could look at the lighting situation and your fertilizer program.
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Old 20-Mar-2008   #8
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The fired clays (Turface, etc) do dry on the surface very quickly, and can still be wet underneath. Two other methods of knowing when to water are:

1. Stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle, you can feel the moisture.

2. Feel the weight of the pot before and after watering. It's easy to tell whether it is wet or dry. But in this case, dry may be too dry.

At least you won't hurt them if you water them every day. The water drains extremely well in this sort of soil.

Your moisture meter is unable to measure the conductivity between the soil particles because it is too well draining. They don't work in this situation.

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Old 20-Mar-2008   #9
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Yea i think its something other then watering. Maybe fertilizer burn but I dont really know what that looks like. It was only my maples. Turned brown at the edges. Larger leaves would just stay half green/brown. small leaves would shrivel off completely. And it wasnt even full summer heat yet. I thought they were all dead, but they have all leafed out again this year after a LONG dormancy. I hope they slept well. All the leaves look fine as of now. But they all look fine this time last year. I guess my pine trees are ok. Cant really tell if they are live or dead! They havent sprouted, but they are still green. Oh and none of these had the roots touched or branches trimmed. They are left alone to grow.
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Old 20-Mar-2008   #10
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G'day subnet...


Following is what I used to present in my bonsai classes...and in club meeting presentations. It may be over kill for you, however, it works...well...for me...as well as a good number of my former students. Maybe it will work for you...all of...part of it...

WATERING YOUR BONSAI


The most important element in watering your bonsai is the SOIL.

To minimize water-related problems, I use a free draining soil mix that will allow water to run through, and at the same time, absorb water and oxygen.

In order for you to water your bonsai properly, you need to learn the watering needs of each of your trees. One of the following statements should describe the needs of each of your trees:


Keep soil moist at all times, but not wet.
Water only if the soil is drying out.
Water when the soil is almost dry.
Water when the soil has dried to the point that it will be DRY before your next watering.
When soil is DRY, water yesterday.


The second most important element in watering you bonsai is: water each individual bonsai only when it needs watering…and every time you water it, give it a thorough drenching!

The Watering Process…this process assumes the use of a proper, well draining bonsai soil mix.

To determine when a bonsai needs watering, check the water content of the soil at 1½-2” below the surface. I use a small “chopstick” (a bamboo skewer) in the soil to indicate watering requirements. (Some say to stick your finger into the soil to assess moisture level. However, I tired of having to clean my fingernails every time I checked for water needs).

Daily, for each individual bonsai, I pull the “chopstick” out of the soil and check the moisture. If the bonsai needs watering (moist, drying out, almost dry, dry…), I do not replace the “chopstick” until after watering…no “chopstick” means water now”! If you are not certain of the state of damp/dry, wipe off the dirty end of the "chopstick" and draw it lightly across your cheek (or the under side of your wrist). That will give you a feel for how much moisture is in the soil.

With experience you may be able to tell when a plant needs water by lifting the plant, and/or by what the plant looks like…goodbye “chopstick”!

I then water each of the identified bonsai the same way…always overhead watering, never by emersion. Use the following steps:
  • Water lightly with a fine spray, from a distance of 12-18”… just 10-30 seconds (depending on the size of the bonsai being watered). This will relax the surface tension, allowing the free flow of water…wait 5-10 minutes.
  • Move the spray nozzle closer, and water until water runs freely out through the drain holes.
IMPORTANT NOTE 1…watch how fast the water starts draining from the bottom of the pot. If it is almost instantaneous, it is likely that water has flowed to the edges of the pot, drained down and out…bypassing the soil and root ball. This bonsai may be rootbound. If “standing water” takes more than 1 minute to drain, the soil is not draining freely enough…watch for root rot!


IMPORTANT NOTE 2…water the plant for a sufficient period of time to be sure that the soil has been completely hydrated, without relying solely on water emerging from the drain holes as an indicator of proper watering. This (Step2) watering will loosen dust and dissolve excess and unwanted minerals and salts, which have collected in the soil. As the water runs down through the soil, air is drawn into the small channels between the soil particles…if you listen closely, and your hearing is good, you may be able to hear the air rushing in! THEN…Wait about 10 minutes for this process to work.
  • Now, give the soil a good drenching…this watering flushes out the remaining dislodged excess and harmful waste materials.
  • Give all bonsai a good foliar spray about once a week…to remove dust and dirt.
Note: I used tap water (while in Southern Arizona, and “tap” is well water) for all my watering…with very little sign of salt or mineral buildup on pots or trunks…EXCEPT: Some buildup on leaves. Any bonsai that I plan on showing will get a good, daily foliar spraying, using bottled water, for a week or more before the showing.


Now, back in Northern California after an almost 13 year vacation in Arizona, I'm still using tap water.

This is what works for me...it may work for you...or not.


So...remember, bonsai is a trip that demands time and patience. Welcome aboard...enjoy the journey.
Pat
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Pat Patterson...Bonsai in the Greater Bay Area, Northern California

Last edited by PatArizona : 20-Mar-2008 at 04:29 PM.
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