Very sick satsuki azalea

Aaron_K

Hi Bob,

Up the top right of the screen you will see "Welcome, RLMurry". Just below that is "Private Messages" which is hyperlinked. If you click on that, you will be taken to your inbox of private messages or "PM's" for short.

I've sent you my email address in a message. I'll take care of the resizing and posting for you.

That does seem strange regarding the roots, and doesn't sound too good either with regard to the meagre root growth. I'll have a look at the photos and see if I can draw some other members attention to this problem.

All the best,

Aaron

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rlmurray

Aaron, I think I have solved the resize problem, and I hope they come through this time.

Bob

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Aaron_K

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your email. I'm glad you are finding your way around the forum.
Wow, that's a nice tree, all be it a little unhappy at the moment. I see what you mean about the foliage, with the lower left hand branch still showing green leaves.

Can I ask what soil medium you are using? It does look to contain quite a lot of fine particles although this could just be due to the camera. I know that Kanuma soil from Japan is a preferred choice amongst rhododendron growers.

If the soil is too heavy or too compact, this could attribute to the lack of root development you have noted. If this is the case and the soil is not allowing for a good mix of air and water, its quite possible that this has caused the stifling of root growth. As you said, its been 2 years since the last repot, so one would expect there to be quite a considerable amount of visible roots at the sides and bottom of the pot.

The lack of root development also lends itself to the foliage dying off, as if there is not sufficient growth below ground to support the growth above ground.

I read a little on Azaleas in one of Harry Tomlinsons and the fertilizing regime he uses is a fortnightly feed. For now I would definitely recommend not feeding the tree.

I just did a quick search on google and came up with this link. It contains some common Azalea diseases .

One on there did seem appropriate in this case -



Hopefully other members who have some good knowledge and experience of azaleas will respond soon. So for now, sit tight and keep your fingers crossed.

All the best,

Aaron

Ralph

I think time is of the essence here, Mr. Bob Murray needs to find a contact in his local club that he can show this tree to, or a visit to a respected nursery that sells azaelas may help as well. First choice is club, because bonsai culture presents it's own unique problems.

This is a nice looking tree would hate for him to lose it.

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JohnQuinn

Azaleas are susceptible to root rot caused by Phytophthora and Pythium species of (pseudo) fungi. What you describe is not inconsistent with the diagnosis, but impossible to say for sure. Perhaps you can submit a foliage sample to your local county extension office for identification of the pathogen. Subdue MAXX and Aliette are two (hard to find, expensive) fungicides which may be of use for this problem.
Could it have stayed rather wet during the winter?
I have a (formerly incredible) Satsuki which I imported from Japan several years ago. I also had the fairly prompt onset of browning, wilting foliage which seemed to take whole branches at a time. I treated with the above fungicides (and most other poisons I have laying around!) with questionable results. One half of the tree is alive, but there is an entire side which has succumbed. I submitted tissue to the Clemson Extension and the diagnosis was probably phomopsis twig blight, for which little can be done. Discoloration of the vascular tissue is apparent as well, as seen in this link:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/no...in16/odin16.htm
There is new growth on half of the tree but it has been a real bummer!
This is how it looked in 2002...can't find the pics showing its demise at the moment.

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rlmurray

Aaron, John, Ralph, et al,

Thanks all for your input and sympathy. It seems that the consencus is that it is a root rot problem for which little can be done at this point. That was my suspicion at the outset. I think I will just wait it out, give it some supportive care, and see what happens.
John, It looks like you have had a similar "near tragedy" on a beautiful tree.
I'll do a "post mortem" exam if it continues on its present path. Will report any startling findings.

Bob

cowboy041979

I also have a sick juko azalea, the leaves are very droopy would anyone have an idea as to what it might be and how i can go about trying to get it well.

thanks

TreeBay

It could be rot or perhaps if the soil dried out even once that is enough to kill an azalea and they are not forgiving in the least. If the soil partially dries there can be also be conditions that lead to rot when the normal watering regime continues. How well was the soil draining?

Regards,

Matt

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John Dixon

John's azalea dying on one side sounds like a problem that started at the roots. Azalea foliage has a distinct connection with the root system directly beneath it. Death of roots were likely the cause of the "side" loss, in his case.
A pity for sure, but maybe not the same problem as you are having.

I'm going to start basic here:

You're area has a significant impact on what the problem could be. I don't know what area you are in.

Your problem seems to be consistent throughout the tree. Roots are still a consideration for the source, but let's see what we can rule out first.

Watering- Has the soil been sopping wet, or dry for extend periods? It needs to be moderately watered to maintain some moisture at all times, and no wet/dry cycles.

Water itself- Are you using water with a high alkaline content? Azalea are acid-loving plants, a calcifuge (sp?, sorry, I'm hurrying). This means avoid lime. it does not like lime.

Fertilizer- Has it received any? Is it tailored for acidic plants, or does it contain alkaline properties?

If alkaline, flush the soil. I mean let water continue to flow through the drainage holes for much longer than normal. This can help to flush out some of the pH irregularites. Build up of salts in the container can be minimized with this technique. Consider that carefully, as I am leaning towards that possibility.

Has it bloomed continuously for years? Next year remove the flower buds. Don't let it bloom. I know the desire to see flowers is great, but the blooming requires a lot of strength from the plant. It needs to re-direct that energy.

Soil mixture- A lot of people use peat to raise the acidic properties of the soil for azalea in basic bonsai soil. That's fine, but peat when allowed to dry out, has a tendency to repel water, rather than absorb it, in future waterings. It can also become water-laden. Either is bad. I highly recommend kanuma soil for azalea. Consider it please. People are always complaining about the high price a bag costs. That's nonsense. Yes, it is pricey, but it goes a long way and I have never, NEVER, lost an azalea with kanuma as the soil medium. If you can't do anything but add a little in spots of the soil mass, do it if the problem cannot be otherwise identified. It can be miraculous, but the timing is not right for a soil change, so that is not a viable option. A partial change is a "maybe", but seek out the problem first.

Light- Is it in full sun? Azaleas CAN do okay in full sun, but at this part of the year, it can become a burden. Mine are in mostly sun with dappled shade. It is the same area where I put bonsai that are recently re-potted (a little shadier) or showing signs of stress. Too much sun COULD be the culprit, but I doubt not enough sun is a problem at ths stage. Remember, that pot can get extremely hot in full sun. Adding water will transfer the built up heat from the ceramic to the water. You could be "scalding" the roots. A possibility.

Fungicides are not my forte, but copper and fungus will not co-exist. I have found topical treatments of copper-containing products adequate for most preventative measures against fungus. Others will have to give better advice about that.

Please consider all of the above. If the problem can be identified from it, take the appropriate course. In any event, do something.

I hope this helps. Good luck,

John

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