My Large Rhus Needs Help

ozzerbon

Hi guys,

Please, I really do need some help with this one.

My large Rhus Typhina is Imperial size. Height, 156cm [61 ½"]. and I fear that the old Chinese pot it is in is about to break.

Can I literally saw thru the very thick, entangled roots so that I can reduce the height of the root ball?

Pot size is: diameter, 33cm [13"], height, 20cm [8"], and the entire [naked] ground surface is a mass of thick roots. The tree is extremely healthy, the soil is akadama.

Nigel

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TreeBay

Yes, you can use a saw on a tightly packed rootball. They do tend to dull pretty quickly, though. Probably the best tool to use is a sod cutter, which is essentially designed for this purpose. They're inexpensive, and I have tried to make others aware of their utility, so far no one is too excited about this inexpensive tool:

http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthr...ighlight=scythe

I am sure you can find them in Amsterdam, sold as a sod cutter or turf cutter. They look like this:



Scythes work very quickly. So quickly in fact that you need to be careful: one problem you may run into is that roots can encircle the planting, and those may be the only active roots. If you've planted in akadama the situation will be better than if it were old field soil, though. I originally tried serrated knives and saws but there is nothing like a sickle.

If you're having trouble getting the tree out of the pot, sometimes a root hook will be a help to remove soil between the container wall and the planting. Another thing I sometimes do is use a block of wood through the drainage hold to hammer the tree out. Then you can use the scythe and remove part of the rootball to see what you're working with. Take it easy unless you know what you're doing.

Regards,

Matt

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ozzerbon

G'day Matt,

Yep, familiar with the tool that you mention, many thanks for that information, just took a pic of the ground surface in question, very glad to know that I can saw thru the root ball, so next question is: a BIG when?

The tree is just going into autumn colours, in actual fact half of the foliage has slowly done that, since the middle of last month and has fallen already.

Really do not want to lose this tree nor the pot either, and am very familiar also about pushing the tree up via the pot hole, getting it out is a two-man job, and so am thinking to remove all the remaining foliage by pruning, certainly leaving a good two inches at least of every petiole, and we are having a very pleasant Indian summer over here, so do you think that this time is as good as any, shall of course be repotting it in 100%akadama.

Really value your help.

Nigel

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ozzerbon

Missed the pic, so here's another try.

Rhus ground surface.

Nigel

Attached Images

september 12 001a.jpg (22.5 KB, 86 views)

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TreeBay

I would wait until the tree is entirely dormant. I don't know how your winters are, but it is best not to expose repotted trees to heavy frost and definitely not allow teh soil to freeze. Early spring is usually the safest time, after the danger of frost has passed and the buds have just begun to swell. Sometimes when many trees are on hand, not each one can enjoy the "perfect moment" because work has to be done when it can be done.

I don't use 100% soft akadama here because it rains too much during the winter, and the soft akadama is capable of holding a lot of moisture, but it may be perfect for your situation, particularly if the tree has done well in the past.

Do be sure when repotting that you keep the rootball in balance with the available foliage - that is if you remove one third of the rootball, remove one third of the effective foliage structure, and you should enjoy some vigorous rebudding from the remaining structure.

I am sure you have some experience with this tree and know what to expect, but if not, be aware that if you defoliate it and then get an Indian Summer, you may have rebudding.

Regards,

Matt

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ozzerbon

YEP, normally that is what I would do, but I'm really afraid of losing the pot, as to frost, don't get that as I'm four floors up facing East.

Hardly any real winter days at all, skips around 1-2 centigrade but mostly holds at 5, which is somewhere between 34-41F.

As to my use of akadama, practically every bonsai grower here in the Netherlands uses it exclusively, and I needs must water everyday, well almost.

Greetings....Nigel

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ozzerbon

G'day Matt,

Well my friend returned home and I just couldn't believe it the tree slipped straight out without any hastle and as clean as a whistle, it's been in the same pot for over two years now.

So just how much of a gamble do you think it is if I reduce the depth of the root ball right now?
And by right now I mean tonight?

Really itching to do it, as I've got a rather nice Tokoname drum pot to put it in, same diameter as the Chinese, after all aren't Sumacs regarded as rather a tough and hardy species, they grow all over the place here in Amsterdam.

Greetings....Nigel

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TreeBay

I don't know any trees that could break a pot in two years. Maybe eight or ten. That doesn't look like a real pot breaker anyway. The potbreakers have straight sides or even (____) Shapes, otherwise the tree would simply push itself up and out.

I am sure you know your climate better than I do. I would not dream of doing something like that here, but we are dry and warm through November at least.

Regards,

Matt

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