How do I know when to water?

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Many growth problems can be attributed to improper watering. Learn more about [*]Daily watering needs [*]How test for water in the soil [*]Overwatering problems [*]How to water effectively

Watering is said to be one of the most difficult skills to learn. Most of the problems that beginning bonsai fanciers have can usually be attributed to watering problems.

With all the variables at work, this isn't surprising: In addition to the variables of tree species, container size and soil composition, we should consider the timing of watering, the amount of water applied, the frequency of water, and the seasonal variables of temperature, wind and relative humidity.

THE NEED FOR WATER
Water in the soil provides the tree with moisture to replace that lost through the leaves' transpiration during photosynthesis (during the day) and respiration (at night). The demand for water increases with temperature to the point at which photosynthesis stops. Water is also lost through evaporation from the surface of the container, which is accelerated by wind and low humidity conditions. On windy days be especially attentive to your trees.

KNOWING THE PLANTS NEEDS
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Specific water needs depend on so many variables that it is impossible to make any general statement about the frequency of watering, but it is the general practice to water bonsai deeply, and to check frequently for the need to water.

HOW TO TEST FOR WATER IN THE SOIL
Push a fingertip into the soil to check for moisture beneath. The top surface of the soil can be misleading, so test the conditions at a depth of 1/2 to one inch. Another trick is to press a length of chopstick into the soil and leave it in place. Check the chopstick daily and it will behave as a moisture sensing "dipstick" that will indicate when to water. If the stick is moist, the plant has water.

SPECIES AND THE DEMAND FOR WATER
The species of tree will have an impact on its demand for water. Understory trees (beech, birch, maple, azalea) generally prefer more moisture. Conifers like Redwood and Ginkgo prefer more water than pines and juniper, as a general rule. Since it is most convenient for the bonsai artist to water all of his trees on a somewhat regular schedule, adjustments are usually made in the potting media to introduce more moisture-retaining materials in the soil mixes of those trees that prefer moisture. In this way, the demand for water can be balanced to some degree by the soil medium. Pines, for example, might be planted in sandier mixtures than the loamy mixes used for fruiting and flowering trees.

PROBLEMS WITH WATERING

Watering with a hose-end sprayer is convenient for large collections. Be sure to allow any hot water in the hose to flush through first to avoid scalding foliage or parboiling roots! Watering a tree insufficiently can cause parts of the tree to wither and die. For this reason, whenever water is needed it should be provided generously.

A hose-end sprayer can be especially useful in breaking up the force of the water so that it does not dislodge potting media from the container.
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HOW'S YOUR WATER?
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A simple pH test kit can determine whether municipal water is safe for bonsai. Consider purchasing an inexpensive aquarium or pool test kit so you can determine the pH (acidity) of your water supply. The basic test kit was found at a home improvement center for about $5.

Municipal water tends to be alkaline. pH within a few tenths of a point of neutral should not be a problem, but if you are growing acid loving trees like Azalea, Juniper or Pine, you may consider taking steps to acidify your water slightly. This can be done with a drop or two of industrial strength vinegar to a gallon of water. Test your water before applying it, and always be sure to wear eye and hand protection when handling acids of any kind.

Injection systems are available that will automatically acidify and fertilize water. pH outside the neutral range will cause nutrients like iron to become chemically bound in the soil and unavailable to the tree.

FERTIGATION
Water soluble fertilizer can be added to your water. This process of Fertilization+Irrigation is called "Fertigation." Scotts Miracle-Gro or Miracid may be used to simultaneously fertilize and buffer water pH to a more acid balance. You can find out more at the Miracle-Gro website

HOW TO WATER
Smaller trees may be soaked for a few minutes up to the depth of the container rim. For larger trees in which soaking is impractical, the tree should be watered a few times in succession to insure that the entire volume of the pot is saturated and water flows freely from the drainage holes.

We like to water our trees at least twice in succession about five minutes apart. The first watering will wet the soil mix and allow it to accept additional moisture in the subsequent pass. If the soil surface is covered with moss, it may be necessary to douse the tree several times to ensure that the water is actually penetrating the surface.
In hot weather, it's a good idea to water the pots as well as the trees to cool them

Watering the foliage of plants cleans away pollutants.

OVERWATERING

Overwatering is problematic for most species. Oaks and Pines are particularly subject to root rot. Needles and leaves will yellow and fall. Other trees will suffer from a loss of oxygen in the soil mix. Overwatering can cause putrefaction of the soil, encourage the growth of hornwort and fungi. Other trees, like Bald Cypress, Wisteria and willow are notable exceptions to this rule and have high water demands during the summer. Throughout the summer we place our wisteria bonsais' pots in a saucer with an inch or two of water available at all times.

SEASONAL CONCERNS

In the summertime, the bonsaiist is advised to check the status of containers daily, and on especially hot, dry days it may be necessary to check both morning and evening.
Misting the trees in the morning can be beneficial to the trees health, or anytime when the ambient temperature exceeds 95 degrees Fahrenheit or so.

Wetting the pots and benches can aid in evaporative cooling to keep trees from suffering from the effects of high heat.
Care should be taken to ensure that the leaves dry before dark to reduce the incidence of fungal problems
In the winter, trees are especially prone to fungal attacks. If rain proceeds uninterrupted for several days at a time, the containers should be tilted by using stones or wood blocks to support one end of the container to improve drainage. *

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