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#1 |
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Mr. Kristopher
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Winter Watering.
For my indoor plants, I have a question. Is what I am doing now is watering the same amount of water on less frequent terms (instead of once every day or so, every three or four days), however they seem to be drying a little to qucik, but this is supposed to be winter and I thought water was to be reduced. So my question, should I continue the current program or is maybe less water on the old schedule better for them? My reasoning for the same amount less often was that is how I figured it would be for them in nature, but the more I think about it, the more I relize I think I am wrong.
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--Kristopher |
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#2 |
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YOU CAN NOT RUSH TIME
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Kris, the amount of water you give and the time frame is simple.... when the tree needs it. Not every tree will need water at the same time, but when you water you should water till the water comes through the holes in the bottom. Some trees like to be damp when you re-water others nearly dry.
As for the trees drying out, in the house they are in dryer conditions than the desert! Well, thats what I've read. So, it is important to try and raise the humidity by the trees. Perhaps if you could tell us more as to the type of trees and the location they are in...light- natural and artificial, temperature of the area etc. I'm sure with these questions answered someone can give you some additional advise.
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A Bonsai student living with his trees at N 44.37 W 77.49... Think before you act... then think again... no good comes from rushing |
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#3 |
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Mr. Kristopher
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I have two Ficus Benji, one bonsai-ed (my wifes, Its a little umm.. mall-sai-ish, however my wife insisted so...), soil is a composition of Orchid Bark and Turface; The other is in its pot I original got it in, same soil, with some turface on top, this will be transplanted into a training pot in the spring; I have a Ficus Retusa, original soil, whatever the place uses who sold it to my garden center... small pot, I know why it dry's out (2 inches is hard to keep wet); Ficus Neri, one, almost no leafs, same soil as the bonsai-ed Benji however with spaghnum moss on top, and in a larger pot; Scheff, in regular potting soil, old planter died (err was killed), did not have turface at that time, or any other kind of suitable soil; and Punicia Nana, one, not that many problems with this one.
My three problems are mainly the Scheff, the Ficus Benji not bonsai-ed and trhe Neri. They are in out living room on a brick floor in front of the fire place (never used), best lighting (all windows are east facing), and we never have heat on in there, they all sit within 2 feet by 1 foot square of each other to hopefully increase some humidity, tempurate is about 50 yo 65 in day, and 40 to 55 at night (pending on how many people are home). They are not all watered at once, I have each one on a program, but they still all seem to need it on a bi-daily (once every two days) basis... when they were getting that before outside..., anyway...,
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--Kristopher |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Jun-2002
Posts: 7
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I don't know how much of a biological clock trees have... but I expect if you do what I do (bring tropicals in when temps dip to 40's) and they are suddenly brought into a climate significantly warmer, I think they assume that WAS winter - now it's spring time. My plants start actively growing within a couple weeks of being brought in. The scheffs have just finished up with their first burst of leaves, and the figs are getting a few leaves (larger-sized due to the lack of sunlight). Strangely, the larger fig that I left exposed to slightly colder temps than the others (but never below 40) is having a tough time getting started. It's in the same location and is more mature, and its leaves are nice and healthy but it only produced a few weak, small leaves that suddenly stopped maturing... Odd... Still, it sounds like the 40-60 temps of the room your plants are in are good for a resting ("tropical dormancy") period.
Water trays (trays filled with water sitting underneath the pots) along with misting seems to do good with my plants to counteract the dryness (and they're right above a heater vent). I have a suspicion, however, that they may attract insects - especially if you let excess fertilizer drip into them - as I had a small problem with some sort of white, circular shaped larvae-creature-millipede-thing-; and small flies seemed to enjoy hunkering around and in the trays. A good thing to remember that I'm sure you already know is that just because the surface of the soil seems dry, doesn't mean the plant needs to be watered (although it seems more likely to be the vice versa). Especially during indoor winter the top of the soil gets dry - I lift my plants up to see how much water they have. Succulents like jade have an added bonus in that you can feel the thickness of the leaves and probably get a rough estimate as to how much water they have stored up. Has worked for me. On a side note, I wonder if it's possible to trick a plant into thinking 2 years have past when actually only one has. I have seen this with a jasmine that is supposed to bloom I guess once per year. It bloomed in mid spring after experiencing early spring cold, then bloomed again when I brought it in from cold fall temperatures (after a cooling period). I suppose they would produce fewer blossoms each time then... I may try this with an azalea this year. |
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