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Trunk Chop And Root Trimming ?

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Old 11-Sep-2004   #1
Camay123
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Trunk Chop And Root Trimming ?

While regarding my tree I ask myself a question, without an anwser I decided to ask it hewre,

Could I do a trunk chop and root trimming/transplant at the same time next spring ? Or am I better to do the trunk chop first wait a year and transplant. The tree is in the soil right now. I intend to transfer it into a training pot next year and a full size tree in a pot is not the ideal.
Thanks,
Patrick

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Old 11-Sep-2004   #2
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Trees in the ground (with the benefit of a large, established root system) have the potential to grow faster and heal faster than those in training pots. A lot depends on how severe a chop you're talking about; if the tree has an established root system, you would expect a lot of growth. That might be just the thing to heal a large pruning wound.

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Matt
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Old 11-Sep-2004   #3
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Re: Trunk Chop And Root Trimming ?

Quote:
Originally posted by Camay123
While regarding my tree I ask myself a question, without an anwser I decided to ask it hewre,

Could I do a trunk chop and root trimming/transplant at the same time next spring ? Or am I better to do the trunk chop first wait a year and transplant. The tree is in the soil right now. I intend to tranfer it into a training pot next year and a full size tree in a pot is not the ideal.
Thanks,
Patrick


I'm planning the same thing next spring with an established Crepe Myrtle. About a 4 inch dia. trunk. I will need to root prune hard( like the olive guys do). Any thoughts?
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Old 11-Sep-2004   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by TreeBay
A lot depends on how severe a chop you're talking about;
Regards,

Matt


We are talking a full trunk chop.

Another question comes to mind; in this article by Andy Ruthledge, Mr. Ruthledge says :
Quote:
I did a trunk chop rather close to the ground early the next spring, but made a mistake. Instead of doing the chop correctly (straight across), I made my cut on an angle.


I always tought a trunk chop was done at an angle, now Mr. Ruthledge says it was a mistake.

Any toughts ?
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Old 13-Nov-2004   #5
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The first question that should be asked is, "What species is your tree?" For any answer to make sense, it must be informed by this.

Generally speaking, the old school method exhorted us to balance root pruning with top pruning. However, in most cases this weakens the tree and slows down growth, inhibiting healing and keeping the tree from advancing. Of course in extreme root pruning, one should remove a good bit of foliage to keep it from dying back and perhaps killing the tree. But if we want to severely prune the top of this tree, and remove a lot of roots at the same time, we take the chance of killing the tree. The extra roots are needed to push new growth, forming a new leader and healing scars.

How exactly is the tree treated after pruning? It depends on the species. How is the trunk chop done? It depends on the species. For deciduous trees like trident maple (but not those that don't heal wounds easily, like hornbeam) the trunk chop should be straight across, a little higher than you want the final cut to be made. Allow the tree to bud where it likes, then choose one, and when it has grown enough, trim back the stub you left before. You can see that process here. What happens if you cut at an angle first? The high point will inevitably dry out and your first buds will be much lower than you had hoped. Far better to choose your leader afterwards from what is available.

Chris
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Old 13-Nov-2004   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steez
I'm planning the same thing next spring with an established Crepe Myrtle. About a 4 inch dia. trunk. I will need to root prune hard( like the olive guys do). Any thoughts?

Why do you need to root prune hard?

Anyway, if the Crepe Myrtle is healthy, it will bud with a vengeance.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 13-Nov-2004   #7
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From personal experience, I would not recommend doing a trunk chop and a repotting at the same time. Leaving the tree in the ground for another year or two will encourage faster growth and thereby giving the new apex a better chance of catching up in thickness, not to mention, as Matt pointed out, a better opportunity to heal quicker.

Common advice says that trunk chops are best done straight across at first. Later you can carve it down to a angle. I have done it both ways and have to admit that the tree does seem to recover quicker with the chop straight across. You need to keep in mind what sort of movement in the new leader you desire.

I have been experimenting with a new technique that so far has woorked fine, however, it is too soon to recommend it.

Will
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Old 14-Nov-2004   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TreeBay
Why do you need to root prune hard?

Anyway, if the Crepe Myrtle is healthy, it will bud with a vengeance.

Regards,

Matt


Because I believe the roots will be deep and well established or the root ball
will be massive. I like what the "olive heads" at Dugz bonsai do with the olives.
Hard root "chop" as to produce beautiful nebari.
http://www.dugzbonsai.com/olivehead1.htm
I think a C' Myrtle is vigorous enough to attempt this.
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