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#1 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Trunk chop
I'm training a Japanese Maple and I feel the main trunk isn't too flash. Tapper is small and it has one long bend (leaning forward, probably too far forward). The tree isn;t that strong (I root prooned heavily when I repoted last over a year ago) but I feel I should do a trunk chop. It's spring in Sydney now and the leaves are out but havn't hardened yet.
Should I chop as soon as the leaves harden or should I wait for winter?. |
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Re: Trunk chop
I'd wait for two reasons- First you said the tree is weak. Have patience. The tree's health is ALWAYS paramount. Second, the buds have opened so it is just past the ideal time to do this, again going back to the fact that you have a weak tree...
I would let the tree regain it's strength, feed it well, then do it late winter.
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Jim Stone Seki Bonsai Studio sekibonsai.com Santa Fe, TX |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Re: Trunk chop
Jim:
What part of the world are you from and please define late winter. I prefer short squatie maples, with a wide root spread and a hard taper as you would find with a trident. I will cut maples and transplant them from first bud in the spring until the temprature breaks 95degrees. Craig: The best way to insure success is to keep many trees. Maples are easy to start from seed and if you keep them in one gallon pots and feed the little seedlings you will be supprised how fast they will grow. You will be forced to cut them just to be able to walk threw them. Keep the seedlings in partial shade if your environment is hot, more sun as you go north and have cooler summers. ripsgreentree
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ripsgreentree It requires an open hand to give and to recieve. |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Re: Trunk chop
Gulf Coast Texas. I try to generalize my advice but it's been a long time since I was a Yankee...
Since seasons tend to blur here, I guess I should try to advise by the signs- I work deciduous as the buds begin to swell... for me it's mid February. We have no prolonged transition- kind of like you wake up and it's 75 every day so you know it's Spring. Maples are pretty tough to grow here because of extensive leaf burn. BUT it can be done. I would probably limit myself to doing one task or the other- chop or repot- an established root system would give you exceptional growth to regrow the top. Consider this is not a strong tree. Like Rips said, feed!!! I also agree, if you want taper you have to let it grow freely for some time. This is the fastest way. This will also restore vigour. Also, how about keeping it in the nursery pot but letting the roots "escape" into the ground for faster development? It is hard to say why it has not recovered from the root pruning over a year ago without a detailed history of care. It could be you've kept at it too much, no fertilizer excess heat... any number of reasons. I'd let the tree regain it's health.
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Jim Stone Seki Bonsai Studio sekibonsai.com Santa Fe, TX |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Re: Trunk chop
Jim: I am in central california, they tell me that maples are dificult to grow here because of summer burn. My solutinn is to create two growing seasons by defoliating in august as tempratures break back from 100 degrees. This gives the tree a full new set of leaves for the fall it also insures a better color desplay because of a higher sugar content in the leaves. I do keep maples under shade cloth because direct sun on the trunk will result in burns that will kill the cambian layer and cause unsightly wounds.
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ripsgreentree It requires an open hand to give and to recieve. |
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