Time For A Discussion On Cut Paste

ripsgreentree

Now that we are heading into fall and there is some pruning going on, it may be a good time to discuss Cut Paste pros and cons.
I for one can show examples on trees like the cedar elm, that would definitely suggest that some kind of cut past is essential.

I can also show on tridents where the use of cut paste has been a disaster.

One thing that is for shure is that different trees will react differently to different products.

This leads me to say that there is not going to be one good answer but as usual in Bonsai many different techniques for different trees.

It would be interesting to see photos of larger cuts and hear how they were healed and what products were used. Also if the tree was in the growing bed, box, or bonsai pot.

I will post first. Here are three pictures of green Mountain Maple (Acer palmatum) that will show what I am talking about. The first picture is of a cut that was not sealed and is at least seven years old.

Attached Images

unsealed cut.jpg (13.4 KB, 382 views)

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ripsgreentree

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ripsgreentree

This tree has been in a bonsai pot for the last 15 years and as you can see the unsealed cut has never healed.

This next picture is of a cut that was sealed with a Japanese cut paste for deciduous trees. The cut was originally the size of the end of your index finger or about 3/4 in. This was cut and sealed 5 years ago. This is what I conseder a well-healed cut.

Attached Images

well healed cut.jpg (14.4 KB, 371 views)

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ripsgreentree

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ripsgreentree

Last is what I call a disaster. You can see two cuts in this last picture. They are about 2 years old and as you can see they will need to be re-cut and re-healed. These trees are also in a bonsai container. The product that was used is Japanese but obviously not for deciduous trees.

Glenn Van Winkle

Attached Images

bad healed cut.jpg (18.1 KB, 382 views)

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ripsgreentree

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mfp1028

Dear Glenn,
you wrote:

are you saying that sealing the wound caused complications, say versus not sealing the wound, or are you saying that the using the "wrong" sealer will cause complications.

mike

whidn

So rip are you saying that there are different pasts for deciduouse and conoforus trees?
If so, What do I look for in the differences?
Are the ingrediants different?

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ripsgreentree

Mike: I am saying that using the wrong sealer will cause the disaster. The problem with the Japanese sealers is that they are all printed in Japanese so you can't tell what the ingreadiants are, you just have to use tryal and error to see which works with which specie of tree. I know this is not good.

Whidn: Yes I am very definitely saying that there are different cut pastes for decidious tree versus evergreens. In fact, I am finding that not using a sealer is bad, but using the wrong sealer is worse. What is a guy to do? Me I just keep trying new things.I am adding a picture of the pastes that I am currently using. I think that you can purchase them from Matt at TreeBay Bonsai Tools & Supplies.

The paste on the right is like plumbers' putty and is used on pines. The paste on the left is the Masakuni wound sealant and was good for decidious but this year I got some that caused problems in my tridents. Right center is Callusmate (new) and I have no results as yet and left center is Shin-Kiyonal. I am currently using on deciduous and have no results as yet, but will keep you posted.

Attached Images

cut past.jpg (16.7 KB, 285 views)

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ripsgreentree

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doody

I am interested in hearing the results people get with substitutes like elmers glue, vasoline, etc. Let us know what you used on what tree, and what your results were.

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salix

I've used acrylic paint on a chinese elm, with rather unsatisfactory results. It never went away, and just hung out there looking gray and ugly. It sealed things up, but did not allow the cut to heal very rapidly. I had better results from not sealing.

stephentoddpope

this is what we used on my juniper

Attached Images

cut past.jpg (16.7 KB, 256 views)

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