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Time For A Discussion On Cut Paste

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Old 8-Oct-2002   #21
ripsgreentree
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Quote:
Originally posted by jwhi1
I use synthetic modeling clay mixed with a little olive oil.
The colors look funny but it does not dry out and keeps criters and such out of the wound. Have been using it on maples for a few years now. It works for me.

jeff


This sounds interesting. Jeff can you manage to post a picture of a healed wound and how long it took to heal over? I would be interested in seeing some results as you have been using this technique for two years.
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Old 9-Oct-2002   #22
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Sorry rip i dont have a digi-camera {yet}. The idea to use modeling clay was told to me from another grower a few years back. I even saw it mentioned in a bonsai book published in 2001 by david prescott. Dont know whos idea it was but it seams to work well. The wounds heal nice, and cheaper than cut paste.

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Old 9-Oct-2002   #23
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Cut paste

Thanks Jeff this is enough information for me to try it. I will use this on pine and decidous both to see how it works. I am always looking for new ideas, so again thanks for the tip.

Glenn
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Old 15-Oct-2002   #24
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Fromsome of the books i've read, regular kids clay is a good all purpose mix.I'm trying it and so far this year it seems to be working fine onmy pine, azalea, boxwood and yew. It stays on pretty good thru watering and doesn't get hard and fall off. It's got to be safe for the trees if a kid can play with it,plus you can make it any color you want.Plus it's CHEAP, about 2 bucks for a pound.The other idea I've read, is mixing dirt with the white glue to help blend in with the bark and help with it not being so sticky.
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Old 16-Oct-2002   #25
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Using Grumpa's comments, I made some cut paste today using the modeling clay and olive oil.

I found that if you put the clay in a small can and then put the can in boiling water the clay will melt nicely at which time I added the olive oil. If you don't heat the clay it is very difficult to mix the oil in with it.

At any rate when it cools you can judge the consistency. Mine was too thik to start with so I reheated the mixture and added more oil. Now its like peanut butter.
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Old 16-Oct-2002   #26
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Are you guys talking about playdough? I don't know anything about clay.
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Old 16-Oct-2002   #27
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We are talking about real clay. It is packaged in small quantities and processed so that it doesn't harden and is non-toxic for children.

Play Dough is a plastic polymer of some kind and probably wouldn't work for cut paste since it doesn't stick to anything.
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Old 16-Oct-2002   #28
GaryS
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I still use this stuff. I have a can of cut paste and a tube of wound sealant but this Bonsai Bond still works the best!



Masakuni bonsai Bond

It can be purchaced here and other places.
http://www.bonsaiofbrooklyn.com/pro...pplies/cp5.html

I just got this picture and link off Google.

I have 2 bottles of this stuff and it's good for mending broken branches too. I think it's heavy-duty carpenters glue in a grey color.
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Old 26-Mar-2008   #29
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Thumbs up Sealants

So, here's my couple o'pennies.

For landscape trees, whose wounds are typically much larger than bonsai wounds I can faithfully recommend a 3-pronged approach.
1) Use clean tools and leave clean cuts
2) Spray wound with Lysol or similar disinfectant
3) Use a tar-based sealant spray

The disinfectant protects the tree from having any pathogens sealed into the wound, and the sealant helps preserve moisture (by preventing evaporation) around the cambium while keeping the exposed heartwood dry (by preventing penetration) to prevent rot.

Now, for bonsai, I use a couple of approaches. For my in-ground trunk chops I use Lysol followed by Vaseline. It works fine for my purposes and is easy to apply. I'll always be regrowing the apex and likely refining the cut at some point later anyway so I just want to preserve excess cambium dry-out at the wound.

For potted plants in training, I use my own homemade blend of vaseline and wood glue with a dab or two of latex paint for color - I mix a gray batch and a brown batch. It typically dries a lighter color than the mix appears but does a great job at protecting the wound until the tree sends callous over the wound. If you try this out, don't hesitate to apply it thickly and it does dry a bit thinner than it applies.

I make my mix in little cheap-but-sturdy tupperware thingies and simply mix until it feels right - roughly 1 part vaseline 2 parts wood glue. It mixes well pretty quickly and you'll know it's right when it feels sort of 'fluffy'. Then add your paint or ink, whatever's handy. Without tinting it will likely dry fairly clear, which will work fine but may look goofy until healed.

Very CHEAP and it works...

Keith Jarvis, Nashville TN
Tennessee Certified Nursery Professional 1997-2003
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