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30-Mar-2002
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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-=Serissa Question=-
On my Serrissa Foetida its got a twig sticking out near the bottem of the tree , now this twig has two more twigs sticking out of it , these two twigs are growing very fast and are growing about 40X faster then the rest of the tree (mabey because its near the bottem) and someone said on one topic *(to somone else) that if you let this grow it will take over the main branch and grow big.
Thats ok i would normally cut it off but i wanted one of the twigs that is sticking out the main twig (hard to understand  ) , i wanted that twig to grow and make a little canopy so i could put a object under it (moss,rock or a person sitting down etc) .Is this wise to let it grow (keep the one twig i wanted for the canopy) or cut the main twig off? If you follow me ( ) please post back THX! |
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-=Serissa Question=- |
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Forum Sponsor
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30-Mar-2002
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#2 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
 
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Re: -=Serissa Question=-
Suckers, as they are sometimes called, or water sprouts, appear at the base of shrubs and some trees used for bonsai in response to pruning or spring seasonal growth.
These will grow at the expense of the rest of the tree. Growth is usually coarse. Some people let the suckers grow to let the tree expend its energy in early spring and then cut them off. They will strengthen the root system somewhat on that side of the tree, but if allowed to grow too large, could do so at the detriment of the tree. A large sucker or "sacrifice branch" might be developed to increase the rootbase or [i:ce426332f4]nebari[/i:ce426332f4] of a tree. The sacrifice branch is often formed from a sucker or low branch on the rear of the tree. The branch is allowed to grow to thicken the root base. When the goal has been achieved, the sacrifice branch is pruned away. Sacrifice branches should be pruned before they get so large that the resulting wound would be troublesome. Regards, Matt
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31-Mar-2002
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Re: -=Serissa Question=-
Ok thx But i have to wait till wednesday untill i can offord and branch cutters or any other things Ill reply again when its been cut and tell you if its ok etc Thx again |
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31-Mar-2002
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#4 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Re: -=Serissa Question=-
A pair of concave cutters is ideal for this type of work, because you can make a nice flush cut against the trunk that will heal well.
In the meantime, there's no reason why you can't head it back with whatever shears you can find. Regards, Matt
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31-Mar-2002
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Re: -=Serissa Question=-
What sould i use , i can buy them both and i will buy a pair of concave cutters anyhow but what do you think i should use
1.concave cutters 2.Knob Cutters The concave cutters like you must know hopfully make it so you can nearly not see there was a branch there but the Knob Cutters will make a nice hollowed out hole so that will add to the effect of it been old. I think id use the Knob Cutters but what do you think? |
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31-Mar-2002
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#6 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Re: -=Serissa Question=-
If we are talking about the tree in your userpic there, I think the concave cutters would be fine. I use them all the time on azalea and other thinbarked trees like juniper and maple.
If you have a knob or knuckle that needs to be removed, then the spherical or semi-spherical cutters are good, or if you are removing a branch from a young, extremely quick growing tree, then a slight depression might be good. You need to be a little careful with knob cutters because the smaller they are, the deeper they will go. The radius of the cutting edge is more pronounced on the smaller tools. It's a little counter intuitive, but that's how it goes. In any case, if it is your first branch cutter, get the concave cutter (flush cut), as it's used for the majority of the branch cuts. It is "the bonsai tool," so get a good one and use it only on the branches (no roots!) Regards, Matt
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