How To Successfully Do A Trunk Chop?

captain

I have several trees that I would like to chop the trunk because they are too tall. What is the best way to ensure branches will grow where he trunk was chopped? Should I put potting soil onto the cutting?

The reason I ask this is because on some chopped trees you can tell when they have been chopped because the straight cutting will be apparent with branches growing under the chop, giving the appearance of a stump with branches.

Thanks,

Steven Lucier
Windsor, Ontario

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Robert

If you're considering choppiing the trunk because the tree is too tall, i'd suggest you consider an Air Layering procedure. There are numerous places you can learn about air layering........it's a process with which you develop a root system somewhere up the trunk of a tree, and then cut the tree just below the new roots.......to shorten the trunk. Check it out. It's the appropriate way to handle long trunk problems. I'm sure you'll get other responses about air layering......and you can find information about it right here on Bonsaitalk.

Other "trunk chopping" is done when you want to form a broom style tree, with certain material.....but I don't think that's what you're talking about.

Good luck with it.

__________________
Robert.........in Sta.Cruz

captain

Robert, thanks for your reply.

I might consider air layering for one of them, however, two of my trees are wide at the bottom and taper off quickly and would like to keep the base to form the bonsai. How would you suggest I approach this?

Steven Lucier
Windsor, Ontario

Tony

It depends on what kind of trees you are working with and what style you want to develop. Cutting a tree straight across is usually done for a broom style, where all the primary branches come off the trunk from a central location. The more common type of trunk chop would be for developing an informal upright style. In that case you just take an existing branch and wire it up as the new trunk extension and chop the old trunk at the point of the new leader. Keep your cuts angled downward and at the back of the tree. There are more details to it than this but that's the basics.

Tony

FredL

Steven, there are two schools of thought on trunk chopping, at least that I've seen in bonsai literature. For developing broom style trees, one says to cut straight across, the other to cut in an uneven "V" shape, with one side of the v wider than the other. John Naka recommends this technique. He also recommends wrapping the trunk where the cut has been made to prevent knobs from forming. I'm planning to try both. For informal upright, Naka recommends cutting at a slant to the bud or branch that will form the new leader. Others recommend cutting straight across and carving off the wood later to make a smooth transition to the new leader. Take your choice!

I highly recommend John Naka's "Bonsai Techniques I" to help visualize how to do both these operations. Good luck!

Fred

captain

Fred,

What do you use to wrap the cutting with?

and won't this wrapping prevent branches to grow out of the cutting?

Thanks for all your replies

Steven Lucier
Windsor, Ontario

Tony

Yes, the wrapping does keep the buds from growing from the wraped area but that's good. For a broom style you want the new buds at the top of the chop, growing in a upward direction. I think Naka uses raffia or something to bind the top. I usually get a piece of rubber hose with an inside diameter the same size as the trunk, split it length ways, and wrap that around it, then put a hose clamp over it for added pressure. It serves the purpose and is whole lot quicker.

By the way, Steven, you haven't told us what kind of trees you're working with. Chopping below the existing branches will kill many trees and getting buds to break at the top of the chop is a crap shoot at best, so get specific information before you do something drastic.

Fred, For the life of me I can't see why Naka says to do that V cut for a broom style. Doesn't make since to me. Does he say why in his book?

Tony

Tony

Wow , I guess we're being sensored. I thought I made a typo in my post and tried to change cr@p shoot to cr@p shoot. Well, you see what I mean.

FredL

Hi Tony,

Naka-san doesn't say why he recommends the uneven "V"; merely recommends it as the best way to proceed. It may be that this method is specific to Elms. At least, this is the type of tree he recommends for Broom Style.

Steven, Naka recommends "twine or tape". The picture he uses makes it look like ordinary hemp. His picture of what happens if you don't tie it sure looks ugly! Once again, I kinda think that this problem is specific to Elms (and probably Hackberries). I've seen them develop bumps. I think it may not be as important with some other species. Also, once again, for my money, it's impossible to recommend his book too highly. Looking at his pictures and reading his explanations definitely give you the feeling, "Hey, that doesn't look so hard. I could do that!".

Fred