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18-Jul-2005
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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Goo Be-gone
The first cut dressing i ever used was the green goo that comes in a green tube. It is a sticky, messy, pain to use. over the weekend I finally got some cut paste. The gray clay-like substance that comes in a little cup. I'll never go back. It is so much easier to handle and dress wounds with.
Granted this is just my oppinion. also please excuse the sophomoric descriptions of the containers, though I'd love to learn japanese, at present I'm ignorant of what the labels say. |
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Goo Be-gone |
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18-Jul-2005
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#2 |
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Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Carlsbad, California..coastal desert
Country: United States
USDA Zone: 11
Posts: 5,462
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I bought and have been using the stuff in the tube, too. It is messy. It gets all over the bark as well, and you can't get it off. Thank you for making the difference clear, and recommending the paste!
Someone told me early on that the difference was also in what kind of tree you are using it on. Can anyone elaborate? Joanie |
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18-Jul-2005
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#3 |
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Bonsai Doer
 
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I use the green goo on maples and elms, and bleeding type trees. I use cut paste on junipers and pines. I let pines heal themselves with pitch unless it is going to be shown. I don't want a raw end showing on a small pruning for the exhibit
 The green goo seals better and will not fall off like paste can do. (not that you really need either of these products in the first place anyway). The green goo will dry after a few days and actually looks like bark, turning very dark brown. Probably due to some carcinigenic ingrediants that shouldn't be handled without gloves  Al
__________________
I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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19-Jul-2005
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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I used the goo on a maple, it seems to be healing well. i used it on a ficus to, but only got a large areas of dead wood. That might just be that ficus don't respond well to wounds.
well such is life. For ease of use and clean up i think I'll keep my clay. |
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22-Jul-2005
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Love Goo, Be the Goo....
Wow! I pretty much agree with Al on this one.
The stiff-paste dries and crumbles and has really never worked as well as the goo when I've done side by side tests on cedar elm wounds. However, the stiff-paste blends better on pines. But then, it's not even really needed on pines. The goo is good for just about anything else, and as Al said, dries to an unobtrusive brownish-green. I've even heard of wounds being hidden at shows with bark "glued" over the wound with goo, though this seems kind of lame to me. I have no problems at all with its messiness. I use a wet finger to apply it, so it never sticks to my finger. It peels off bark easily when the time comes if you peel it after a soaking rain. Kind regards, Jim |
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26-Jul-2005
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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I haven't had any problems yet with the paste drying.
I have it on an elm that I chopped and is in full, direct sun for at least 12 hours per day. This is also intense high altitude sun, in new mexico with 5% ambient humidity. no problems yet. Anyway, I'll probably just be quiet from now on. I don't want to start an arguement. All the wounds are healing nicely. Cord |
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17-Sep-2005
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#7 |
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Registered FedEx Sender
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The green goo isn't actually a cut paste. It's grafting sealer, which should be much stickier than cut paste. I have found it's hard for trees to heal well under it. I only use the cut putty now.
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17-Sep-2005
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#8 | |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
Join Date: Sep-2004
Location: South San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,028
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Quote:
I guess I'm lame  Mike
__________________
Bonsai is not a hobby. Bonsai is a way of life. MP@BBB Studio There is no way to happiness. Happiness is the way Gautama Buddha |
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17-Sep-2005
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#9 |
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I only use the cut paste clay like material, it seems to work just fine on all the species I have and if applied with a wet finger, it isn't messy at all. A little bit of this goes a long ways.
Besides gluing bark on, which I do not do, you can take a piece of bark and press it against this stuff which gives you a "bark" texture. For the serious hides, you can melt a crayon with a lighter, letting a few drops fall on cut paste that you have flattened out and then mead it together to mix the color in. With a bit of practice you can match any color bark. Use the texture trick and the color trick together and you can have almost invisible results. If this is acceptable or not is another article. Will |
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17-Sep-2005
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#10 | |
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Behr Appleby
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Quote:
Well Mr. Mike, that makes two of us that are lame...It is so nice to know I am in good company though...If a tree is otherwise ready to show or photograph and it has a minor flaw like a freshly cut branch, or a skinned place, I will continue to be lame and dress up the spot with goo, bark and goo, acrylic paint, shoe polish, or whatever else I might be able to do to improve the visual image of the tree...I have even been known to use 'gorilla glue' and the 'goo' to repair a broken branch...Of course I don't recall ever being refered to as a 'purist', which could be the difference...I consider these things as just another tool in the 'magicians bag of tricks' to help with the illusion...Thanks Mr. Al for the magician analogy... Regards Behr
__________________
As the Master departed the workshop, he could have sworn he heard some one saying rather loudly... "I thought he would never leave" San Antonio Bonsai Society, Inc. |
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