approach vs. inarch grafting for maple nebari

stevesick

Peter,
Doc is referring to the attached image from my site.


Doc,
Have you ever used a dremel tool to cut out the notch for your inlay approach grafts? I think I might need one to make a big enough slot for the seedlings I have.. that maple is hard wood!

Thanks,
Steve

Attached Images

trdnt_graft3.jpg (65.3 KB, 34 views)

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PeterW

Ok, thanks for that. (And the light bulb turns on!)

Peter.

stevesick

Doc,
Can you (or anyone else) advise me on how I might best graft a new root to the area indicated by the red circle in my diagram below?

My trident has this curve to it that makes it very difficult to get the angle that I want the new roots to come out at.

This is why I've been crying about wanting to use the 'inarch' method where I could just jam the seedling in at the angle I want - without having to keep the top of the seedling.

Maybe I should criss-cross them (seedlings indicated in blue)? At least that way I can have the seedling roots pointing away from the base of the tree..

Thoughts?

Attached Images

	graftquandry.jpg (9.9 KB, 5 views)
	graftquandry2.jpg (16.0 KB, 6 views)

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stevesick

Ok, I realize I'm talking to myself here, but my latest thought is to cut a wedge out of the seedling allowing it to be bent at a sharp enough angle to achieve what I've depicted in the drawing below.

This seems like a lot of trauma for the seedling in addition to the trauma to the host tree..

Has anyone done radical things like this w/ tridents that could lend me some advice as to whether or not they can handle this?

Thanks in advance,
Steve

Attached Images

Untitled-1.jpg (16.6 KB, 4 views)

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vln1502

Steve, I've seen this done, but the seedling was shaped before attaching. In other words, wire a seedling into a 90 degree angle and allow it time to set into that angle. Then do your approach graft. This keeps the top of the seedling completely out of the way. It may take you an extra season. Vic

Docs_Bonsai

Pete
If you look at Steve's pictures you'll see that he has put his graft in between to very large roots. If he notches out the area between those roots and places the seedling in the notch in time the two large roots will envelop and fuse the seedling. I've used such an area before, the roots protect the approach graft and the healing process is twice as fast. If you have questions or concerns drop me a line.

Doc

stevesick

Thanks Vic - that makes a lot of sense.

Steve

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"You are lost the instant you know what the result will be." - Juan Gris
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Docs_Bonsai

Steve
You are correct in this line of thought. As I said before you will be suprised how many things you can do with the method I explained. Just make a verticle notch drop the seedling in. Especially where you have drawn in blue. You can start there and go all around the trunk(in time) and replace all of the old roots. The use of plastic green nursery tape will help. Thats all I use. Cut a notch lay in the seedling and tape the whole thing up. Works great.

DOC

Docs_Bonsai

Steve
I learned along time ago that a seedling can be replaced if it dies. The host tree will do one of two things. It will except the seedling and they both survive, or the host tree won't except the seedling and pushes it out. Either way you can replace the seedling and the host tree will heal in one season. It seems like alot of trama from our point of view, but how many times have you seen a tree get run over by a lawnmower and survive. Trees are different especially tridents, they can take it. I see your tree in the future five years down the road it's sitting in a two inch deep pot and looks awesome. Go for it!! By the way I do use a dermel tool. But I don't know how ot insert a picture in this forum.
Doc