approach vs. inarch grafting for maple nebari

stevesick

Thanks for your encouragement Doc!

I went for it this weekend.. maybe a little overboard, but it was definately a learning experience and we'll see how it goes..

You can check out some pix here if you're interested:
http://stevesbonsai.com/trees/trident.htm

Thanks again,
Steve

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Mcspeed

Steve, I saw this method as I read my new Juniper guide last night, it looks promising. With the extra cut I think that it helps by adding an extra area for the cambium to match and grow, plus a bit of additional holding powerwith the "flaps" overlapping so to speak. Although the real holding power is the tape.

Not from experiance per se, but this year I have a few to start adding some branches to, and this method doesn't look much more complicated then the typical approach method.

Good Luck.

edit - I see now I should have looked at your pics more closely - but it just changes tape to nails and sealer .

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Bill

stevesick

Thanks MCSpeed.

I still haven't heard from anyone who's tried the 'inarch' method. That's the one where you chop off the top of the seedling and stuff it under the cambium layer of the new host. Then it fuses in and only grows downward - which is seemingly the perfect solution for adding surface roots w/o having a scar where you eventually cut off the top of the seedling after it has fused using the approach method..

I read about it in 'the grafters handbook' but haven't seen it anywhere else..

I guess I'll have to do my own experiment with it at some point.

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Mcspeed

A little different than what I saw in the Juniper guide I have, but called the same.

Did you have to do double cuts, one in each direction to give 2 mating surfaces on each piece?

__________________
If at first you don't succeed -- skydiving is not for you.


Always remember that you're unique -- just like everyone else

Enjoy this day.
Bill

stevesick

Not sure if I'm following your question.. I just did simple approach grafts - exposing cambium on seedling and host and trying to match them up the best I could.

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Docs_Bonsai

Steve
The method I suggested is simply a approach graft. It is the easiest and the safest way to graft. You don't have to worry about the cambium layer because the host trunk envelops the seedling. If you have any questions or concerns just reply. I've been a master graftman for over twenty years.

Doc

stevesick

Thanks Doc.

I ended up using larger seedilings - about 1/2" diameter, and at a location on the trunk that did not lend well to deep carving, so I just sorta exposed the cambium on either side and nailed them on.. do you think I'll have success?

Pics are here:
www.stevesbonsai.com/trees/trident.htm

Thanks for any advise.

Steve

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Docs_Bonsai

Steve, over time the cambium layers on both trees will fuse. Unfortunately the union will take several years to nit and will be a weak point when you re-pot or do any work around the roots. If you take the seedling that you have and carve out a notch at the "Y" of those two roots. Expose the cambium on the seedling and push it into the notch and nail it in, the two roots on both sides will heal around the seedling in one or two seasons. Thats a perfect place to drop new roots in. I do it all the time. The thread grafts look great. Next time push the seedling through the hole right up to the old root so there isn't any stem showing. Over time the thread graft will look just like they grew there. You can keep going around the trunk and replace the old roots with new. I've used this method to reduce the size of many Tridents.


Doc

stevesick

Thanks Doc - that makes perfect sense and I have a clearer picture of how this should be done now.

I still have time to re-work those grafts a bit before spring so I'll see if I can make some improvements.

Thanks again,
Steve

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"You are lost the instant you know what the result will be." - Juan Gris
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